EternaBond on roof edges

[tyler811]

Does anyone put EternaBond tape over the caulk that covers the edges where the ceiling meets that wall. Also where the vents come out of the roof?

[Jfkmk]

My roofing material goes over the edge of the side wall and is sealed behind the gutter. I did not seal this edge, but did seal all of the roof penetrations, including the vents. Basically, wherever there was calking I sealed with EternaBond.

[cboss]

Originally Posted by Jfkmk

My roofing material goes over the edge of the side wall and is sealed behind the gutter. I did not seal this edge, but did seal all of the roof penetrations, including the vents. Basically, wherever there was calking I sealed with EternaBond.

Did you remove the caulk (lap seal) or just clean it up?

[Jfkmk]

I just cleaned it up. I had a can of EternaBond cleaner left over from my last camper, but if I recall, you can use acetone. My camper was only 2 years old when I applied the EternaBond, so the calking was still in good condition.

[ChrisParise]

This may not apply to every RV but some gutters are attached with 1 screw every 6-8". These screws penetrate the roofing material which comes down over the sidewall a few inches. The screws tend to loosen over time allowing water to enter the sidewall. Screws are often covered with a 1" vinyl trim piece so you cant see if they need maintenance.

Chris

[Jfkmk]

Good point, Chris, I'll have to check that out.

[ChrisParise]

Sorry, not trying to make any more work for us owners.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by parise

This may not apply to every RV but some gutters are attached with 1 screw every 6-8". These screws penetrate the roofing material which comes down over the sidewall a few inches. The screws tend to loosen over time allowing water to enter the sidewall. Screws are often covered with a 1" vinyl trim piece so you cant see if they need maintenance.

Chris

A more serious failure point is where the upper awning brackets span the rain gutter. Water intrudes along the lag bolts, soaks the 1x2 behind the rain gutter, and wicks up into the roof decking. Any RV kept outside will have soft spots in the roof decking behind the awning brackets.

[RiderBloke]

Originally Posted by Jfkmk

My roofing material goes over the edge of the side wall and is sealed behind the gutter. I did not seal this edge, but did seal all of the roof penetrations, including the vents. Basically, wherever there was calking I sealed with EternaBond.

Ditto plus I ran a piece of eternabond across the front seam and some around the 4 gutter spout areas.

[wilfb100]

I was thinking about using Eternabond over my caulk, also. And I did have a problem with water intrusion through the screws described by parise in an earlier post.



My question: what width Eternabond works best for the various roof and upper sidewall applications discussed in this thread?

[RiderBloke]

Originally Posted by wilfb100

I was thinking about using Eternabond over my caulk, also. And I did have a problem with water intrusion through the screws described by parise in an earlier post.



My question: what width Eternabond works best for the various roof and upper sidewall applications discussed in this thread?

I used 6” across the front seam but probably 4” would have done and I used 4” for everything else. If I do the sides it will be 4” as well.

[RiderBloke]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

A more serious failure point is where the upper awning brackets span the rain gutter. Water intrudes along the lag bolts, soaks the 1x2 behind the rain gutter, and wicks up into the roof decking. Any RV kept outside will have soft spots in the roof decking behind the awning brackets.

Could you explain this please. I looked and my awning brackets both stop beneath the awning and roof rails.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by wilfb100

I was thinking about using Eternabond over my caulk, also. And I did have a problem with water intrusion through the screws described by parise in an earlier post.

My question: what width Eternabond works best for the various roof and upper sidewall applications discussed in this thread?

The 2" or 3" width will cover all flat seams. The front and rear seams (where roof joins front and rear aluminum siding) are covered by a transition trim molding that is maybe 1-1/4" wide and 3/4" high. It's subject to a lot of wind at high speeds. I would use 4" or even 6" for this application, but only need 16-18 feet.

A similar situation exists around vents. If you want to lap over the screw heads and the flange has a raised rib around the edge, you might want 3" or 4" instead of 2".

eBay is a great source for buying Eternabond. They have widths up to 12". I cannot even envision where I would use that, but I'm sure I would know it when I see it.

[billybigrigger]

Originally Posted by RiderBloke

Could you explain this please. I looked and my awning brackets both stop beneath the awning and roof rails.

I am also interested. Can you post supporting pictures?

[rsdata]

I posted this write-up a couple of years ago...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...nce-90060.html

I trimmed high spots off the existing caulk, so the tape would lay better. The trailer was less than 3 years old and the caulk was still in good shape... just needed cleaning. I did not take pictures of my taping of all of the vent penetrations on the roof... fans, and toilet vent.

I did lap the tape over the side seams into the gutter so that the tape ended just at the bottom of the shallow gutters.

[Macrosill]

I think he is referring to the older style brackets used on the manual awnings. I had them on my 2007 Jayco with manual awning. On my Wildwood with electric awning there are no brackets just the arms secured to the wall.


The older manual awnings had brackets at the roof line and the bottom of the arms. They would get a couple large screws into the top rail in the area of the gutter and down at the bottom. This were big leak spots, especially the ones that went through the gutter. And because the screw went trough the gutter the gutter would always clog up with debris. Then the clog would exacerbate the problem.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Macrosill

I think he is referring to the older style brackets used on the manual awnings. I had them on my 2007 Jayco with manual awning. On my Wildwood with electric awning there are no brackets just the arms secured to the wall.

The older manual awnings had brackets at the roof line and the bottom of the arms. They would get a couple large screws into the top rail in the area of the gutter and down at the bottom. This were big leak spots, especially the ones that went through the gutter. And because the screw went trough the gutter the gutter would always clog up with debris. Then the clog would exacerbate the problem.

Yes, Brian, that's exactly right, even the gutter-clogging part. On the latter two images you can see that the lag screws go right through the vinyl rain-gutter insert with no means to seal the rupture, and that the bracket crushes the rails the vinyl insert rides in.

This terrible design is present on both our 2002 SOB Nash and our 3008 FR Cherokee 38P. I had no ideas there were better options. I've taken and sold the awning from the Cherokee. I'm rebuilding the Nash and would love to find a better option for it.

Here are some images of those brackets:

[Tiguan Tow r]

I've done Eternabond on the top front roof/wall seam and also the top/side seams. I used a double wide 4" overlap on the front seam and 2" on the sides. I only have the side seam pictures available.

[tyler811]

my trailer is a 2018 and the caulk is still very pliable. I just washed it with Dawn dish soap. Should I still use acetone on a rag?\]

[rsdata]

I just washed it with Dawn dish soap. Should I still use acetone on a rag?

You can, or cheaper from the Dollar store medicinal area, IPA ( Isopropyl alcohol is a colorless, flammable chemical compound with a strong odor, not beer) the higher the alcohol % the better... this will dry any moisture just prior to applying the tape and remove any remaining soap or oils... dries quickly.