Eternabond tape yeah or nah?

[juice5]

Than you members for advice and considerations...we learn every time we open up !

[RandK-M]

I think Eternabond is good insurance and I just started adding the materials to my Amazon wish list to do mine sometime in the next month or so. I plan on definitely doing the front and back seams as well as the other roof penetrations. However, I haven't decided on doing the sides or not. I'm leaning towards not doing them since the roof membrane already wraps over the sides and is under the gutters..I think, not sure how the factory terminates the edge of the roof membrane on the sides. I definitely don't want to remove the gutters since that could create problems with the screws, etc. I guess if I do decide to do the sides, I could wrap the tape over the roof and into the gutter. If I did that, I'd use black Eternabond since the gutters and trim are all black.

Ray

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by RandK-M

I think Eternabond is good insurance and I just started adding the materials to my Amazon wish list to do mine sometime in the next month or so. I plan on definitely doing the front and back seams as well as the other roof penetrations. However, I haven't decided on doing the sides or not. I'm leaning towards not doing them since the roof membrane already wraps over the sides and is under the gutters..I think, not sure how the factory terminates the edge of the roof membrane on the sides. I definitely don't want to remove the gutters since that could create problems with the screws, etc. I guess if I do decide to do the sides, I could wrap the tape over the roof and into the gutter. If I did that, I'd use black Eternabond since the gutters and trim are all black.

Ray

That's what I did on my TT. You don' need to go all the way into the gutter, go just far enough to cover the top edge and screws.

[Tapex]

So glad I did this, and I enjoyed every minute applying. Time consuming, but peace of mind is so worth it!

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

Excellent job im so glad to see i was not the only one who had to tape of my entire Camper

that was a lot of work and im getting ready to do it on my 2014 want to help lol
looks good all excellent job

2000 dodge ram 3500 dully 5.9 cummins old black betty with a TON OF WORK
2014 2680ws new to me last yr
dealing with up state ny weather & cron 19
stay safe all

[Mike223]

Originally Posted by rsdata

Here is my story from over 4 years ago...

I have heard from many owners of trailers they have done the same thing...

use Eternabond dot com as a reference tool with their information

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...nce-90060.html

You do not need 6 inch when 2 inch will do the job... you decide... it WILL STICK no matter which width you choose...

The first time I used it I bought 4 in. After using some of it, I decided to cut each piece in half making twice as much tape. I only needed 2 in.
Mike

[Native Texan]

Originally Posted by dbutton

I did the same on my 2011 Dynamax. Clean surfaces & stick down Eternabond or Dicor everywhere there is caulking.Attachment 227032

What did you use to polish your skylight? That looks great!

[Vern]

Originally Posted by Bob2019

I would only use eternabond on an area or something you will NEVER have to replace. I've replaced vent covers and shower bubbles and getting dicor off is bad enough. Why? Hail and sun rot of covers will have you doing replacements.

This comment makes sense to me and is the main reason I have not yet pulled the trigger to use Eternabond on my roof. I figure that about the time I put the Eternabond on, I'll have a fan cover, vent cover or shower cover/bubble to replace and the Eternabond will complicate the repair.

Any advice from those who have "been there"?

[cardwellmarty]

Originally Posted by Vern

This comment makes sense to me and is the main reason I have not yet pulled the trigger to use Eternabond on my roof. I figure that about the time I put the Eternabond on, I'll have a fan cover, vent cover or shower cover/bubble to replace and the Eternabond will complicate the repair.

Any advice from those who have "been there"?

I placed eternabond every joint except vents, l removed them and put two layers of butyl tape and replaced put a layer of self leveling dicor and waited a few days and put another layer of dicor been three years no problems.

[dbutton]

Originally Posted by Native Texan

What did you use to polish your skylight? That looks great!

I used 3M polishing products that are used to polish headlight lenses.

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

on my 5th wheel i used 4"
boy it sticks like a bleep bleep bleep

as soon as it's worm here im going to tape off the entire TT prep roof let it dry
then 4" the full length both sides then i will use the roof sealer ..on the entire TT

i have a delam problem just over the slide so im hopping this will stop it.
i bought the TT like this.. the RV dealer said this was common.

[mopwr4me2003]

Originally Posted by Vern

This comment makes sense to me and is the main reason I have not yet pulled the trigger to use Eternabond on my roof. I figure that about the time I put the Eternabond on, I'll have a fan cover, vent cover or shower cover/bubble to replace and the Eternabond will complicate the repair.



Any advice from those who have "been there"?

This is why I am doing it now. I spent a little extra cash and got a new skylight as my factory one is cracked. I’m hoping the lexon one will last longer. I figure my vent shares are in good shape so hopefully they will last a few more years. I figure I have to pull things off I might as well do it all and be done with it. Here’s to hoping for good weather this weekend and some time to burn [emoji16]

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by mopwr4me2003

This is why I am doing it now. I spent a little extra cash and got a new skylight as my factory one is cracked. I’m hoping the lexon one will last longer. I figure my vent shares are in good shape so hopefully they will last a few more years. I figure I have to pull things off I might as well do it all and be done with it. Here’s to hoping for good weather this weekend and some time to burn [emoji16]

Lexan is strong and will last for at least 10 years. We used 3/16" lexan for windows in the operator's control tower for the car shredder. You would be surprised at the chunks of iron and steel that 3/16 inches would stop. Even when looking in the direction of the shredder you would jump when a piece hit the window. The windows were a single 4' x 6' piece of lexan and though the microscopic stress fractures created over time would make the window look like gold when the sun hit it just right we never did have one break.

[RandK-M]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

That's what I did on my TT. You don' need to go all the way into the gutter, go just far enough to cover the top edge and screws.

I took a quick picture of my side roof edges. My gutter is only maybe a quarter inch below the roof edge and there aren't even any screws visible. I think the gutter screws must be under the plastic molding. So based on this picture, I don't think I need to do the sides with Eternabond at all? If I did, it would have to go pretty much all the way into the gutter.
What say the members here, skip the sides or do them anyway?

Ray

[Tapex]

I went over the roof enough to cover that bead of caulking where the rubber roof goes underneath the metal strip which is actually your gutter for the camper.
Just wanted to do mine this way, so I don't have to add calking to that whole length of the camper. I did both front and back side. Each side separately totaled 22ft 2inchs.
I went as close to middle of the molding that covers those screws,which holds the gutter as my stopping point.

[Teamfour]

Originally Posted by tapex

I went over the roof enough to cover that bead of caulking where the rubber roof goes underneath the metal strip which is actually your gutter for the camper.
Just wanted to do mine this way, so I don't have to add calking to that whole length of the camper. I did both front and back side. Each side separately totaled 22ft 2inchs.
I went as close to middle of the molding that covers those screws,which holds the gutter as my stopping point.

Nice job! Are you still able to remove the plastic strip that covers the gutter attaching screws?

[Tapex]

Originally Posted by Teamfour

Nice job! Are you still able to remove the plastic strip that covers the gutter attaching screws?

Thanks Teamfour! Yes, if I need to I can, since I went only half way with the Eternabond on the plastic strip. I realize that I'll need a heat gun for a little help , if need be though.

[Treybecky]

So, I would like to ask if anyone else can chime in on that top edge overlaping the vinyl insert. I would think if its only half way, yes you can heat it up to get into under it, but it also defeats the purpose of a "permanent" seal over a possible water intrusion area along the lower edge of the 1" vinyl insert?? Also, if the vinyl insert ever gets brittle, which it will, how would you replace it other than covering with more eternabond, extending the coverage that may should have been done in the first place.

I may be repeating myself, but in another words...I just covered all my vents and all top seams with 4" eternabond on a 2 yr old GeoPro 19FD trailer. I agree its the right thing to do. Question: Im still undecided if I should cover the top side edges over the side seam with the 1" convex vinyl insert inside the side of the gutters over the edge to the roof. I can accomplish it with a 2" x 50' roll of eternabond. Ive seen some people stopped the eternabond on the mid of the vinyl insert. I would think if you are going to do a permanent seal, why not go a bit further over all the vinyl and seal that insert, almost to the base of the inner gutter, and its cavity under the vinyl, hiding the screws, to the metal lip holding the insert. I understand that it will thus never be able to inspect or repair the non-stainless screws under it... but on the otherhand, if sealed with eternabond, there should never be any water intrusion. Is there any advice on why I should really not cover up this vinyl strip and create a 10-15+ yr protection from possible leaks ?

On a side note, Where it starts getting really squirmy, is the top quadrant roof corners, starting at the top area where the vinyl inert that goes vertical down from the top corners. It seems that's a natural place to cover with eternabond, but if I only go say a foot down, with 2" eternabond, and then stop the eternabond, I wonder how to address replacing the vinyl insert, I would be just covering it again a bit further down when in a couple years I might replace all the lower further exposed vinyl 1" insert on the side seams going all the way down vertically (and btw the one along the bottom edge of the walls horizontal, too. Cheap maintenance for an item that Ive read will deteriorate and become brittle and have to be replaced in a couple years).

[RandK-M]

I think I'm gonna skip doing the sides on mine. My gutter seems to be mounted a bit different (Higher) than other pictures posted and also a slightly different style. On mine, the top edge of the gutter and the vinyl strip is nearly at the edge of the roof line. If I wrapped Eternabond over the edge roof it would only be 1 inch at most before I was all the way into the bottom of the gutter.

Ray

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by dbutton

I did the same on my 2011 Dynamax. Clean surfaces & stick down Eternabond or Dicor everywhere there is caulking.Attachment 227032

How hard is the tape to remove if you need to replace the skylight?