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Old 06-23-2022, 07:38 PM   #21
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I did all my seams except vents, removed vents put two layers of butyl tape and replaced dicor, it's been 5 years only touched up the doctor a little, all the Eternabond is holding up well.
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Old 06-23-2022, 07:39 PM   #22
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Dicor spell check...
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Old 06-24-2022, 10:25 AM   #23
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Can get it clean

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Originally Posted by Luke Moseley View Post
Try using a heat gun and plastic putty knife. It's a messy job but doable. The adhesive is gray and even using mineral spirits you'll probably never get it all off but you will get most of it. Then you can put on new eternabond.
The skylights on the Cherokee 38P slideouts were just flat sheets of 1/16" polycarbonate, secured with butyl tape, screws, AND Eternabond. After 12 years the polycabonate (one brand is Lexan) had yellowed and gotten brittle and a pine cone went right through one 24" x 24" pane. A heat gun and a putty knife with rounded edge and corners got most of the Eternabond adhesive and butyl tape residue off. Mineral spirits got the rest off but left an oily feeling. An alcohol rinse removed that.

I later learned that mineral spirits are very bad for EPDM roofs, even brief exposure. If I have to do this again, I will use a different technique.
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Old 06-24-2022, 02:37 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
The skylights on the Cherokee 38P slideouts were just flat sheets of 1/16" polycarbonate, secured with butyl tape, screws, AND Eternabond. After 12 years the polycabonate (one brand is Lexan) had yellowed and gotten brittle and a pine cone went right through one 24" x 24" pane. A heat gun and a putty knife with rounded edge and corners got most of the Eternabond adhesive and butyl tape residue off. Mineral spirits got the rest off but left an oily feeling. An alcohol rinse removed that.

I later learned that mineral spirits are very bad for EPDM roofs, even brief exposure. If I have to do this again, I will use a different technique.
I use acetone for cleaning and have had good success.
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Old 06-27-2022, 09:20 PM   #25
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I taped my seams proactively. When I traded it in the dealer considered it as a negative as he said it looked like I was patching roof leaks. But I proactively placed it on my hew camper as well. I like the peace of mind.

I proactively taped all seams on the roof of my TT as well several years ago. When I took the TT to the dealer to have a soft spot on the roof checked (turned out to just be an area with more flex than other spots on the roof), the dealer told me to remove the Eternabond and use Dicor. No, thank you. Eternabond is much less maintenance than Dicor. I did my TT myself and then helped my friend put Eternabond on the roof of his fifth wheel on seams. Peace of mind is well worth the expense and it was not that difficult to do.
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:10 AM   #26
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I wonder if the magic eraser would do a good enough job cleaning in order to lay the eternabond down?
Follow instructions on Eternabond web site.
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:14 AM   #27
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First leak was 5 years old.
Resealed with Dicor. Inspected and used Dicor on all cracks in sealant.
Next time it was needing to be sealed I used Eternabond on everything.
Happy with result.
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:35 AM   #28
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Eternabond is once and done, Dicor, not so much..
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Old 06-28-2022, 09:03 AM   #29
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Eternabond

I read, somewhere, that Eternabond tape isn't supposed to be used on any PVC roof. Does anyone know if there is any truth to that? I can not remember where I read that, but I would love to know. I have seen the stuff being used by friends and family. There is no downside to using it. But, if there is a compatibility issue, I would gladly welcome any reviews of another camper sealant that can be used on my PVC roof.

Thanks and Happy Camping!
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Old 06-28-2022, 09:32 AM   #30
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I need to do this on my roof. The dealer had to remove and reinstall both gutters and I'm wary of how well they sealed them. Would the 2" be wide enough to lap the gutter and go far enough onto the roof? What should I use to clean before applying the tape? Thanks I hope this will help with the edge as well, the factory left the plywood too long and you can see the cut splinters thru the thin roofing.
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Old 06-28-2022, 11:00 AM   #31
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I used 3 inch wide and 90% alcohol for cleaning prep. 2, 50 ft. rolls were enough for my 30 ft. box..
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Old 06-28-2022, 01:31 PM   #32
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Wide enough

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I need to do this on my roof. The dealer had to remove and reinstall both gutters and I'm wary of how well they sealed them. Would the 2" be wide enough to lap the gutter and go far enough onto the roof? What should I use to clean before applying the tape? Thanks I hope this will help with the edge as well, the factory left the plywood too long and you can see the cut splinters thru the thin roofing.
The roofing plywood is often 15/32" thick. The roof gutter goes into a 1x2 just below that. If you, are trying to just lap the gutter, 2" should be sufficient.

The usual construction is a layer of thick, padded tape over the edge of the plywood followed by a strip of butyl tape along the vertical edge. The membrane is stretched over the butyl tape. Another strip of butyl tape is applied on the outside over the membrane. The rain gutter is applied over that layer of butyl tape. A very thin bead of cauik is applied at the top of the rain gutter--this serves more to prevent unattractive "bleeding" of the butyl tape than anything else.

It sounds like the factory didn't use the padded tape over the plywood edge. On our 2002 Nash, it was around three inches wide, two inches on the roof deck and an inch over edge and onto the aluminum siding.
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Old 06-28-2022, 03:10 PM   #33
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I used 3 inch wide and 90% alcohol for cleaning prep. 2, 50 ft. rolls were enough for my 30 ft. box..
Thank you, that helps.
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Old 06-28-2022, 03:17 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
The roofing plywood is often 15/32" thick. The roof gutter goes into a 1x2 just below that. If you, are trying to just lap the gutter, 2" should be sufficient.

The usual construction is a layer of thick, padded tape over the edge of the plywood followed by a strip of butyl tape along the vertical edge. The membrane is stretched over the butyl tape. Another strip of butyl tape is applied on the outside over the membrane. The rain gutter is applied over that layer of butyl tape. A very thin bead of cauik is applied at the top of the rain gutter--this serves more to prevent unattractive "bleeding" of the butyl tape than anything else.

It sounds like the factory didn't use the padded tape over the plywood edge. On our 2002 Nash, it was around three inches wide, two inches on the roof deck and an inch over edge and onto the aluminum siding.
It doesn't appear to have any padding as I can see the saw splinters thru the roofing material. The plywood over hangs the side about 1/4 inch. When the factory put the gutters on they were high on both ends and water just puddled. about an inch deep behind the awning. The dealer did a half baked job of fixing the gutters and the seal along the top edge looks questionable. The awning rails were right up tight to the gutter, so to repair right would have meant remounting the awning and I didn't want all new hold down the siding. QC is minimal!!
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