Large bubble in roof

[Jbenn4422]

Hello,

I’ve seen many threads that discuss bubbles but nothing the size that I have. Perhaps I am paranoid.

I did patch some roof spots last summer, there are a few small openings/cracks again that I will patch.

Is this size of a bubble an issue?

[bigmurph]

Is that a crack and tear in the roof? If so, is it from the air lifting the roof while driving or is it possible the cause of the problem?

[Jbenn4422]

No tear, I found a few small cracks that I am repairing today. Hopefully that stops the air

[Reverse_snowbird]

Is the roof underneath solid?
In addition to repairing any tears, check that seam around the outside of the roof.
You also might want to wash and condition the roof with something like the Original Murphys Oil Soap or any other product made specifically for that purpose. (Once you've repaired it of course)

[Comanchecreek]

I had the whole front third of my Montana separate and would bubble up as we drove down the road. I was able to reglue it. I bought the rubber roof adhesive, EPDM repair tape, and the EPDM sealer from PPL motorhomes. I got small plastic squeeze bottles and a 2 foot length of clear plastic hose from Wally World. I already had a bread dough roller. I would fill the plastic bottle with adhesive. I would then make an inch long slit in the EPDM. I would run the 2 foot hose in as far as I could, then attach the bottle with the glue to the hose. I would squeeze the bottle forcing the glue through the hose under the EPDM. I would then use the roller on top of the roof, and force the adhesive as far around as it would go. I did as much as I could through the hole, then I would put a small patch of repair tape over the slit and cover it with EPDM sealer. Then on to the next spot. I worked my way around, and was able to glue down the area with six slits. Was still working when I traded the trailer in. Figured it was worth it as a new rubber roof can run anywhere from 8 to 10 grand. Trailer wasn't worth it.

[rsdata]

It appears to me looking at the pictures that the roof is bubbled up by the negative air pressure of wind going over a curved surface, and a lack of glue under the rubber holding it down. While it seems to be a manufacturing defect, the roof membrane appears to be intact. A dealer may tell you that as long as it does not leak then that is normal for that to happen and not to worry about it. Well, personally I would not want it to start leaking before doing something about it.

I am a DIY guy. I would approach this repair by removing the caulk seal at the front. Then I would lift the rubber and inspect and clean the trailer roof surface and the underside of the rubber. Then I would apply Eternabond Doublestick ( two-sided tape) to the underside of the rubber. Stick on the roofing material to the roof, rolling with a roller to activate the tape. Then finish the project with 4 or 6 inch wide Eternabond White tape at the joint side to side.

Additionally you may want to use some 3M 4799 adhesive.

Application Concrete, metal, rubber, wood
3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Industrial Adhesive 4799 is a black, brushable, heat resistant adhesive that develops strength rapidly providing good creep resistance. Low soak-in on porous surfaces. Application temperature: At least 65°F

Watch this video: Note the use of a roller to activate the adhesive.

https://youtu.be/rJ-pmyAvk4o

[cfo111]

yes this sure isn't a little problem if you do a dyi project make sure before you glue everything is good and clean and roll it into place and lay some heavy things on it to say down till it sets.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by rsdata

It appears to me looking at the pictures that the roof is bubbled up by the negative air pressure of wind going over a curved surface, and a lack of glue under the rubber holding it down. While it seems to be a manufacturing defect, the roof membrane appears to be intact. A dealer may tell you that as long as it does not leak then that is normal for that to happen and not to worry about it. Well, personally I would not want it to start leaking before doing something about it.

I am a DIY guy. I would approach this repair by removing the caulk seal at the front. Then I would lift the rubber and inspect and clean the trailer roof surface and the underside of the rubber. Then I would apply Eternabond Doublestick ( two-sided tape) to the underside of the rubber. Stick on the roofing material to the roof, rolling with a roller to activate the tape. Then finish the project with 4 or 6 inch wide Eternabond White tape at the joint side to side.

Additionally you may want to use some 3M 4799 adhesive.


Watch this video: Note the use of a roller to activate the adhesive.

https://youtu.be/rJ-pmyAvk4o

RS, this is much harder than you think. The 2002 Nash that I am working on needed new roof decking and some trusses for the first four feet and last eight feet. Just to peel the roof membrane back requires:

• Remove awning
• Remove both rain gutters for first several feet (Lots of screws and butyl tape and staples holding the membrane onto the sides behind the rain gutters)
• Remove vent from roof (Remove Dicor, screws, butyl tape)
• Remove Dicor, transition molding, and staples across front edge
• Peel back membrane
• Scrub old contact adhesive from membrane and decking (I'm told new contact cement does not stick to old contact cement.)

[Jbenn4422]

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to watch some videos and determine what to do next. Thanks again