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Old 08-30-2017, 05:57 PM   #21
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Update...

I was quoted $800-$1100 for the repair. They'll basically open it up, dry it out and seal it back up. They said they would need to replace the back panel if I wanted it to look new again (around $3k guesstimate for that). I have some thoughts on how to fix this myself so I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. I have a trip planned in a couple weeks so I went and picked it up. I didn't want to miss the trip just because they couldn't finish it in time. I also wouldn't have been able to sleep at night not knowing exactly why this happened, so I jumped up there tonight when I got it back in the driveway and found this:



It's a bad pic but I think you can see the problem. One stupid marker light that wasn't sealed properly caused a heck of a lot of damage. Lesson learned...check over the TT every so often and don't ignore things.

Any chance I can go after a warranty repair on this now that we know what the prob is? It just seems that this light simply wasn't sealed right in the first place. As RV owners do we really need to check over every single light, seam and whatever else there is? I'm guessing the answer to this is yes, unless we want things like this to happen again.

Anyway, that's where we stand at the moment. I'll update as I make progress on this repair.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:28 PM   #22
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As RV owners do we really need to check over every single light, seam and whatever else there is? I'm guessing the answer to this is yes
You got that right!
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:42 PM   #23
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Thank you for the follow up.
Glad the quote you got for the partial repair is "within budget".
My guess is they will just re seal the unit for that price, maybe pull the marker lights to "let it dry out"
The only way to "open it up" would be to remove the roof and side seams and pull the outer skin off. I find it hard to believe they would re install the old skin after such an operation.
If that marker light has not been sealed since rolling off the factory floor, I am sure you would have mold which would add significantly to the $3k estimate.
You had originally stated you had your yearly inspection coming up? I would go after the inspection service for the full repair since they failed and did not seal that marker light.
As far as warranty from the factory, you did not follow the inspect / maintain every 90 days, so you are out of luck from the factory.
To answer your question... YES, as RV owners, we are responsible to check every seam, seal, light, cutout, screw or anything else attached to our rigs to prevent water damage.
Sorry this happened but take it as an expensive learning experience.
Please keep us posted with updates.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:50 PM   #24
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Now I spend my days just trying to keep myself in check...it's just a camper, it's just a truck, it's just money...life goes on. I have people close to me that are MUCH less fortunate. When you think about it, we should be thankful for these insignificant problems we bring to ourselves by buying these expensive toys...though I do understand that these serve as homes to some of you, so they're not just toys.



Anyway...HAPPY CAMPING!!!


Not to hijack but good attitude!!

We looked for two years and finally bought ours in Feb. Five weeks later had a meeting with my boss and found out I was being downsized and crowding 60 so job search gets interesting.

That completely sucked for lack of a better term. But after the initial shock (camper would have been last thing to go according to the wife) we realized it is just stuff. Could have been one of us with short time left or something.

Had another lined up before I left the other so all worked out and now I work from home so even better.

Does make you stop and think about what is important though.

Just food for thought when things get you down.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:50 PM   #25
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Well they stated they would do exactly what you said, break the seam at the roof and sides and dry it out. Whether that's what they do or not is another story. I have a fellow rv buddy that was just as sceptical as you sound.
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:04 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by brad10281 View Post
Well they stated they would do exactly what you said, break the seam at the roof and sides and dry it out. Whether that's what they do or not is another story. I have a fellow rv buddy that was just as sceptical as you sound.
Well, it sounds like they are on the right track to get it dried out.
I truly do not mean to bring you down and I apologize if I come across that way over the forum.
I am just trying to present what needs to be done to do it right and many dealers or repair guys do not do it right.
If I was in your shoes, I would ask for pictures if you cannot personally see it when it is opened up to confirm there is no mold inside the wall and also to confirm the work is performed as written. I would also have them apply Eternabond tape to any seam on the roof if you are unable to do it yourself.
Have you checked for insurance coverage? That might help with repairs.
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:49 PM   #27
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Not to hijack but good attitude!!

We looked for two years and finally bought ours in Feb. Five weeks later had a meeting with my boss and found out I was being downsized and crowding 60 so job search gets interesting.
Been there, done that...back in 2009 with thousands of other people. Both me and my wife were without jobs for several months trying to live on unemployment. Ended up losing a vehicle and a boat due to it. I did get A LOT of fishing in during that time though...well, until I lost the boat anyways. You're right, it sucks. I remember hearing stories of people killing themselves over lack of a job and finances. It can be rough, but I don't think it's that rough. Oddly enough I get a weird sense of enjoyment out of things like that. I guess I like a good challenge.

Well, I'm glad to hear it worked out for you. I worked from home once (the job I lost) and it was great...can't beat the traffic. I'm only pushing 40 at this point (in a couple weeks) but I already feel like it'd be hard to compete with the younger crowd if I was looking for a job.
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:10 PM   #28
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I would not bother with the dealer, contact the factory and see if you can have them do the repair. Warranty or no, the factory will do a much better job than any dealer will, and probably at a lower cost.

My 2 cents

John U
Ditto; they are the experts at this and will do a much better job for far less money than you think. They can even press out a new wall far cheaper than the dealer labor trying to repair your old one.
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:23 PM   #29
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Ditto; they are the experts at this and will do a much better job for far less money than you think. They can even press out a new wall far cheaper than the dealer labor trying to repair your old one.
Well, the factory is only a state away...that's a plus.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:31 PM   #30
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Ok, so I did a little work on the TT tonight. I removed the marker light with the broken seal and was able to suck all the standing water out of between the fiberglass and backing. My next step is to purchase an inspection camera and feed it down the wall to see what I'm dealing with mold/moisture wise. Until then, I'll be rigging something up to pump some air through there to get it dried out. I'm feeling better already.

Any tips on cleaning up old silicone? Wholly crap that stuff is tough to get off. I mostly scrape it with my thumb nail. Tried some Goof Off with limited success.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:29 AM   #31
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Ok, so I did a little work on the TT tonight. I removed the marker light with the broken seal and was able to suck all the standing water out of between the fiberglass and backing. My next step is to purchase an inspection camera and feed it down the wall to see what I'm dealing with mold/moisture wise. Until then, I'll be rigging something up to pump some air through there to get it dried out. I'm feeling better already.

Any tips on cleaning up old silicone? Wholly crap that stuff is tough to get off. I mostly scrape it with my thumb nail. Tried some Goof Off with limited success.

The old sealant isn't silicone and you don't want to use silicone when you redo it. It's probably Geocel sealant or Dicor sealant.

https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pr...xible-sealant/

To remove it I've been using these nonmarring scrapers from Harbor Freight along with denatured alcohol to soften it up and clean the surface before applying a new bead of caulk.

https://t.harborfreight.com/4-piece-...set-95832.html

I usually use blue tape to lay down a clean line and to keep it from smearing everywhere. I then use a bit of water on my finger to smooth it out. Try to apply it when the surface is cool and pull the tape before it dries.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:24 AM   #32
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I use Pro-Flex on the walls (vertical surfaces) like the factory does.

Reflectix® Staple Tab Insulation - Reflective Insulation - Ace Hardware

For the roof seams and roof protrusions, Dicor self leveling Lap sealant works best.

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Dicor-Se...+sealant&psc=1

For re-installs of components (like replacing windows, the utility connections, etc.) use butyl tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834...rds=butyl+tape

Tip for working with sealants.

Apply the bead of Proflex to the seam;
Squirt soapy water on your hands and run your wet thumb nail down the seam to make a finished edge, while collecting the excess in a damp paper towel in your soapy left hand.
Cleanup is a breeze and the seal will look just like it cane from the factory.

With Butyl tape, apply the tape so there is about 1/8 inch exposed all around the item and screw it to the wall. the extruded can then be trimmed away with a box knife easily. Then seal with proflex.

If you want to just about end roof maintenance (except for an annual inspection and dish wash soapy water wash), after you do a thorough job cleaning and sealing with Dicor Lap Sealant, cover all your seams (especially the front, back, and holes in the roof, with Eternabond Roof Tape. I also put the excess 6 inch wide tape from the front and back seam under the roof antenna to make a landing pad.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834...rds=butyl+tape

Always apply at least a 1/2 inch overlap when sealing over the Eternabond Tape if you need wider.


ALWAYS use Eternabond Primer before you add the tape. Work slowly and peal the tape away from the liner as you lay it down. It will stick to the roof forever.


I carry several feet of 6 inch wide in my emergency tool kit in case of roof snags by low hanging trees.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:32 AM   #33
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Been there, done that...back in 2009 with thousands of other people. Both me and my wife were without jobs for several months trying to live on unemployment. Ended up losing a vehicle and a boat due to it. I did get A LOT of fishing in during that time though...well, until I lost the boat anyways. You're right, it sucks. I remember hearing stories of people killing themselves over lack of a job and finances. It can be rough, but I don't think it's that rough. Oddly enough I get a weird sense of enjoyment out of things like that. I guess I like a good challenge.

Well, I'm glad to hear it worked out for you. I worked from home once (the job I lost) and it was great...can't beat the traffic. I'm only pushing 40 at this point (in a couple weeks) but I already feel like it'd be hard to compete with the younger crowd if I was looking for a job.
I think we all have been there to some extent in our lives. I bought my brand new truck in January and found out in May that I had prostate cancer. My health insurance has a $5,000 deductible plus co-pays. I had just emptied my savings acct buying the new truck!

As luck would have it my wife and I came into some money and paid off her car and all of our small bills. I had the prostate surgery in July and am back to work full time now. We just bought our 2014 V Cross in August and are doing our maiden voyage camping trip next weekend. We have slept in it in our driveway though.

Good luck getting your water damage fixed. As mentioned by others sealer is only covered for 90 days so there is no warranty on the water damage. My daughter and SIL purchased a brand new TT in January and didn't bring it home from the dealer until May. My SIL found some sealer issues after he got it home and the dealer wouldn't warranty it even though it was in their storage and he couldn't fix it if he wanted to.
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:58 PM   #34
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Thanks for the tips on the products guys. I took some time to inspect just about every nook and cranny tonight and found several seals that need to be fixed. It's supposed to rain tonight/tomorrow so I ended up fixing a few with some silicone I had laying around. I'm gonna go out tomorrow and try to find some ProFlex and then redo them the right way.
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