Proflex vs GE Silicone RTV II workability

[kamper00]

The question is how is proflex compared to RTV/silicone in regard to workability. In other words, I had to seal around the pass-thru storage door ring from the metal frame to the fiberglass because when they cut the hole they made it too big and the foam seal wasn't touching in places. I used GE silicone II, I did so because I have used it in the past and find it easy to work with and can lay down a nice seal and able to wipe it clean both from the fiberglass and metal ring leaving just a bead barely visible in the void.

Is proflex just as easy to work with, and how forgiving is it?

In the pik you can see the gap, I am wondering if when they installed it they kept trying to push it in to seal it and ended up bending it since the hole in the side being too big in that corner has no bearing on the seal of the foam*
I was just going to bend it back and make it flush but having that gap in my mind was/is a good thing as it allowed me to apply a bead enough to seal as you can see light coming thru and figure of light can come thru, so can water

[007matman]

Pro-flex takes a little more work. I had the best results towards the end of re-doing all of the seams on my camper.

Cut the tube so you put down a small bead and go light on the trigger. If you need to make it smaller I used aluminum tape (like you'd use on metal ductwork) to narrow the opening from the tube. I learned that less is better.. you can always go back and add more if it's a little light in an area.

I found the best results when I would mist the area with water immediately after laying your bead. Then lightly use your (wet) finger to smooth it out. It'll try to set pretty quickly so water is a must. Once it starts to film over you're done and it won't smooth out at all.

I'd use it again because definitely very durable (much better than silicone). Denatured alcohol works great for cleanup if you need to do that.