Re-Sealing Corner Trim and Various Windows/Hatches

[jkrose]

Hello,

I started re-sealing my front corner trim a few days ago. 2012 Salem Cruise Lite 26BHXl (corrugated aluminum siding). The previous owner made a massive mess with caulk. Caulk spread almost 2 inches onto siding in some places. No leaks! But, a real eyesore.

The caulk has just gotten dirtier over the years and even though it was not failing, I could not take it anymore. I started cutting out the old caulking and I've about got most of it off the siding and cleaned up to re-seal the front corner trim! What a job!

Next step, the same guy apparently decided to try to add sealant around windows and storage hatches. The TT has no water damage anywhere so I assume this was preventative. The correct product was not used and it has run down the siding in multiple places. I think I can get most of this off the siding fairly easily and make things look a lot better. It is practically falling off in some places already.

Questions:
1. The tops and maybe 4-6 inches of the sides from the top of each window and hatch look to be be professionally sealed with a semi-clear sealant. Perhaps clear at one time and just yellowing or dirty now? It doesn't look or feel like silicone. It is fairly hard as well but I can indent with thumb nail. It is definitely NOT butyl tape or putty. Some kind of caulk or sealant. Any idea what this sealant would be? It looks to be sound and looks to be factory or professionally applied at least compared to everything else the previous owner tried to diy. I'm hoping I don't need to remove this sealant, just the other goop that the guy tried to add down the remaining sides of each window and along the bottoms. Thankfully, the goop is not applied over the clear-ish sealant.

2. Do I need to re-apply new sealant down the sides and along the bottoms of windows and hatches after I clean the bad stuff off? The butyl tape is there and forming a primary seal for water I think. I notice a lot of TT don't have any other sealant except for the top and several inches along the sides. I've gotten a lot of mixed opinions in my research.

3. I don't think I can ever remove all the old caulking or sealant from the corner trim or the windows and hatches. My goal has been to cut a big enough gap to give room for a new bead of sealant to both surfaces after cleaning very good. Is there any issue with old caulk behind new caulk? The old caulk is still very pliable and now that I've cut most of the exposed caulk away the remaining caulk is clean and bright, but not smooth.

Thanks for any advice from those who've been down the re-sealing road!

[LACharlie]

Interesting on the side sealant. I'm at same point with 2016 Rockwood Mini lite 2304. Sealant was clear when new , now yellowing and getting harder and deteriorating. Found same sealant on all four top corners at end of drip rail. Only in black. Doesn't appear to be silicon.

This is a good site for answers so i'm sure someone will chime in. Thanks

[Wumba]

You can use Dicor or similar type sealant for that. Make sure to use lap sealant and not self leveling. Dicor comes in white, tan or back. Thoroughly clean out (as much as you can) the old sealant before applying.

[LACharlie]

Further down in the list I found another conversation about the same problem. Something similar to
Geocel ProFlexRV in clear. Anyone use this in clear? The original seam sealer in clear is definitely harder than the Dicor I have used.

[Wumba]

Geocel is best used on flat surfaces as it will sag. The OP was talking about side sealant, which would have to be a no sag product.

[ChrisParise]

Geocel Proflex Rv is for vertical surfaces. Been using it that way for years. I use Dicor self leveling sealant for horizontal seams which are exclusive to the roof.

I just did side and roof seam maintenance on my cousins TT and used Clear Proflex on the front cap vertical seams and between the gutter rail and the roof corners - both their front cap and gutter rails are gray and black respectively and Clear Proflex was the perfect choice for that. Clear and White Proflex have the same application characteristics.

For their roof seam maintenance I used the Dicor self leveling sealant

[LACharlie]

Thanks Chris. Thought it might work because of the thin application on the vertical surface. I finished today with Eternabond on roof with some Alpha Systems Super Flex self level. I had ordered earlier so used it but after much reading it appears Dicor self level is the favorite for roof. Would like to hear your opinion on why Dicor self level for roof is your choice. Thanks again. Charlie

[ChrisParise]

Charlie,

My rv dealer uses Dicor self leveling sealant in their shop for maintenance and repairs. It's what they recommend and sell retail. Their parts department stocks the full line of Dicor products for rv roof maintenance.

Dicor has videos on how to apply their product too.

I like how the Dicor product flows out of the gun, I only use rotating barrel pressure release guns, and the way it predictably self levels and covers targeted spaces.

I own a Class C with an EPDM roof and do seam maintenance myself. Last week, I also did seam maintenance on my cousins TT using Dicor on the roof and Geocel Proflex on the side seams. I took a slew of pictures for the record and will attach a few.

Chris

[LACharlie]

Chris,

Thanks for the info and photos. Nice work. Looks like the Dicor flows out well. Next on my list is a better caulk gun. Thanks again.