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Old 05-05-2018, 07:43 PM   #1
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Rubber Roof Maintenance for Dummies? (Me)

OK, I've watched enough You Tube videos about rubber roof maintenance to make my head spin. The conclusion I've come to is two fold. (1) I should clean and protect the roof periodically with Dicor products. (2) I should eliminate worry about leaks from the very beginning by applying Eternabond tape on the edges and around protrusions (AC, etc). Would anyone care to challenge, enhance or expand on my plan or otherwise increase my head's spin rate? As always, thank you for your input!
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:59 AM   #2
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I clean and I inspect my roof about twice a year. If I find any cracked dicor sealant, I clean it and apply more self leveling sealant. If you determine you have a problem area (the dicor cracks or splits repeatedly), then use eternabond. My roof is over six years old and never had a leak, which I credit to regular maintenance.

My problem areas were the front cap seam and one skylight. Eternabond fixed them so far. All the other dicor areas are fine.

I don't see the need to apply eternabond over every seam.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:18 PM   #3
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roof maintenance for dummies

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiletwice View Post
OK, I've watched enough You Tube videos about rubber roof maintenance to make my head spin. The conclusion I've come to is two fold. (1) I should clean and protect the roof periodically with Dicor products. (2) I should eliminate worry about leaks from the very beginning by applying Eternabond tape on the edges and around protrusions (AC, etc). Would anyone care to challenge, enhance or expand on my plan or otherwise increase my head's spin rate? As always, thank you for your input!
Perhaps you can relay what you have learned. I have a 2008 Forest River travel trailer. Last year I had to replace the forward six feet or so of roof because my TV antenna seal had cracked and there was underlying damage. the rest of my roof looks very good to me. Some spots here and there, so maybe some cleaning, but no cracks or leaks. Just went over it a couple of days ago. My service tech recently reported I need a new roof because it was beginning to crack. After looking it over, I think he was just trying to make some money. But I watched a U-tube video of an EPDM application. My question is: Do you think I will have to do something drastic like the EPDM coating at some point? If so, how will I know when, if there are no cracks or leaks? I do keep the Dicor self leveling sealant handy. Haven't bought the Eternabond tape, yet.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:54 PM   #4
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Ditto mm wildcat.

The problem with rubber roofs is nothing sticks well to them. PVC types are sort of chemically welded. Model airplanes.

Everything is assembled with contact cement. Thus as said it is important to examine seals. Keep It clean so you can see things getting ragged. Carry tape and tubes of repair Material.

Roof leaks are uncommon! It is the seams, connections, penetrations etc that leak.

Rubber membrane is not very tough. Trees are not your friends.
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Old 05-07-2018, 12:44 PM   #5
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Roofs and Walking

Good thread. Are all TT roofs generally able to withstand foot traffic? I have the Micro Lite 21FBRS and have been reluctant to climb up on it to inspect. Should I do my best to stay off the mid-section, keeping my weight nearer the outside?
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:11 PM   #6
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NMWildcat...

You usually give some good advice, BUT

Quote:
I don't see the need to apply eternabond over every seam.
The reason to do Eternabond now is to not have to do this twice a year ( clean the cracked Dicor and add more Dicor) ...

Quote:
I clean and I inspect my roof about twice a year. If I find any cracked dicor sealant, I clean it and apply more self leveling sealant. If you determine you have a problem area (the dicor cracks or splits repeatedly), then use eternabond.

tomkatb...


Quote:
The problem with rubber roofs is nothing sticks well to them.
Obviously you have never used Eternabond... if it touches anything on the sticky side you WILL have a difficult time getting it off... EVEN RV roofs... and even years later...

Maybe if Eternabond sent FREE samples out then everyone would be convinced that it CAN REPLACE Dicor...

Some say it can be unsightly on the roof, but personally as long as my roof don't leak I could care less what the roof looked like. I will be at 3 years this coming August without a drop of Dicor having to be applied, nor having to do anything other than inspect and wash my roof.
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:14 PM   #7
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Should I do my best to stay off the mid-section, keeping my weight nearer the outside?
I guess it depends on your weight... I am about 250 and have no problem on my 183 hybrid... an 8 - 10 foot step ladder against the sides is pretty effective
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:15 PM   #8
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There are some manufacturers who Eternabond the seams instead of using Dicor.
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:34 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by tomkatb View Post
Ditto mm wildcat.

The problem with rubber roofs is nothing sticks well to them. PVC types are sort of chemically welded. Model airplanes.

Everything is assembled with contact cement. Thus as said it is important to examine seals. Keep It clean so you can see things getting ragged. Carry tape and tubes of repair Material.

Roof leaks are uncommon! It is the seams, connections, penetrations etc that leak.

Rubber membrane is not very tough. Trees are not your friends.
Here is a link to a product that DOES stick to EPDM and seals perfectly. IT DOES NOT chalk, fade, grow mildew. Burger King uses this stuff to cover all the roofs on their stores in the South. It is bright white and shiny. It actually lowers their air conditioning costs because it reflects sunlight so well.

I used it on our previous camper.

When my current camper needs a roof this is what I am going to be using again.

OneStep Plus | Hot Roofs. Cool Solutions.

You use the 2100MS around all the roof penetrations and then cover with the OneStep Plus.

NO, Im not affiliated with them at all, other than being a VERY satisfied customer
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:52 PM   #10
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NMWildcat
You usually give some good advice, BUT

The reason to do Eternabond now is to not have to do this twice a year ( clean the cracked Dicor and add more Dicor)
And I usually agree with you. I would love to seal every seam and protusion with Eternabond, but it is a tad expensive, especially for larger rigs, and when you need to use two different widths. Dicor usually goes years w/o needing any patching except for the few problem areas that every roof has.

The twice a year inspection will happen anyway. I don't usually find any problems, but I'm all about preventative maintenance/inspection. Besides, I'm retired and it keeps me out of most trouble

So my argument about using Eternabond everywhere is mostly based on cost.
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:27 PM   #11
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So my argument about using Eternabond everywhere is mostly based on cost.
Just so people don't get the idea that Eternabond is real expensive... I spent about $80 on two rolls. I did front and back seams with 2 inch, plus left and right seams into the gutters with 3 inch, covering the still intact, but cleaned factory applied Dicor. Plus I taped all holes in the roof including A/C, two fans, the bubble over the shower, the antenna, and the vent pipe with these two rolls, plus had some left over just in case.

I own a Shamrock 183, 19 foot hybrid. I did the back and sides on an 8 foot step ladder, but the front seam and roof holes I did while on the roof.

I inspected the roof again this March (31 months elapsed) while I was in FL camping when I borrowed another camper's ladder. Everything, all edges, etc. was still stuck down tight with nothing visible that told me I needed to do anything to the Eternabond covered areas. All Dicor was covered over and not visible.

The pictures below show what and when I ordered Eternabond, but the prices are current amazon pricing.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nce-90060.html
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:22 PM   #12
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A 35' motorhome that owned, I applied Eternabond on all the outer edge seams on the rubber roof. I did not apply to antenna, skylight or AC. Just applied Dicor sealant to these areas. I had that MH for 12 years before selling it. Roof was still in excellent shape. On my current trailer (3 years old), I am going to apply Eternabond to front and back seams. Cannot do side seams because if not enough room because roof folds over the side next to a small gutter where Dicor was applied at the factory. Cost on MH was less than $70 and my labor. Like someone else said, just be careful, it sticks to everything good. Follow instructions on their website.
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:45 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
Here is a link to a product that DOES stick to EPDM and seals perfectly. IT DOES NOT chalk, fade, grow mildew. Burger King uses this stuff to cover all the roofs on their stores in the South. It is bright white and shiny. It actually lowers their air conditioning costs because it reflects sunlight so well.

I used it on our previous camper.

When my current camper needs a roof this is what I am going to be using again.

OneStep Plus | Hot Roofs. Cool Solutions.

You use the 2100MS around all the roof penetrations and then cover with the OneStep Plus.

NO, Im not affiliated with them at all, other than being a VERY satisfied customer
Interesting stuff.

Can't find a place that sells it, or a cost for it.
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:52 PM   #14
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I was pleasantly surprised to find the roof on our Hemisphere is Superflex by Alpha Systems. Clean with spic and span or Simple Green or like products and no other protectants required.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:03 PM   #15
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As a former flat roof consultant I am not pleased about the construction of trailer roofs.

Piles of decor or whatever around penetrations is a no no in the roofing world.

We strived to design roofs with long expected lives. Some have survived 100 years.

Glued down rubber roofs were not anything I would put my name on.

Etherbond tape is a great product. It migh last as long as the roof with a little care.

I would recommend to everyone to inspect your roof 2-3 times a year. Minor issues can be puttied or taped up to last longer.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:34 PM   #16
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Eternabond!

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And I usually agree with you. I would love to seal every seam and protusion with Eternabond, but it is a tad expensive, especially for larger rigs, and when you need to use two different widths. Dicor usually goes years w/o needing any patching except for the few problem areas that every roof has.

The twice a year inspection will happen anyway. I don't usually find any problems, but I'm all about preventative maintenance/inspection. Besides, I'm retired and it keeps me out of most trouble

So my argument about using Eternabond everywhere is mostly based on cost.
One of our travel trailers (the one that's not permanently sited) is a 2002 which has had some neglect. When DW got it (before she met me), some damage had already been done. Friends regularly helped by gobbing more Dicor Lap Sealant on, but it didn't seem to stop the leaks. (Nothing was done about the awning lag screws--see below). When I began disassembly, I was surprised at how easy it is to peel Dicor off. I don't have much confidence in it.

I am currently replacing the front 4' of decking, two of the trusses, and the fascia. The damage was caused by a failure of the seam between the front cap and roof, and by water penetration around the lag screw which holds the upper awning bracket, the problem no one will admit to. The front seam failed because the Dicor allowed water to penetrate around the screws through the metal bridge and the bridge lifted. You can bet that this seam will be covered with Eternabond when I am done.

Then I will move to the back of the trailer where the last 8' of decking, three or four trusses, and much fascia will need to be replaced. Possibly also 4-8' of luan ceiling panel too. The failure here won't be completely diagnosed until I peel back the EPDM but one certain cause is again the awning bracket lag screw. I expect to replace these with something similar, perhaps welding elevator bolts to flat plates and then backing the plates with butyl tape and mounting them with small screws.

I have had to remove the front vent so far. I expect to use Eternabond when I put it back. At the rear, I must remove the railing, ladder, range hood, skylight, and fan. I expect to use Eternabond wherever I can because I certainly don't want to do this again.

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Old 05-07-2018, 08:51 PM   #17
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I'm not arguing against Eternabond at all. It is an excellent choice for roof fixes. I'm just saying that when Dicor is properly applied it is also a viable choice. And Dicor properly applied to a clean area, does NOT peel off easily. Even Eternabond, applied incorrectly, can fail.

My estimate for my 35' RV for 4" eternabond for front and back seams, and 2" everywhere else was $200. So I decided to use Eternabond only where it was really needed. Just my choice.
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:13 PM   #18
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RV armor

I guess I’m lazy. I looked around and found RV armorand had them do my roof on my 201BHXL. I couldn’t beat the warranty.
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:01 AM   #19
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Anyone know offhand the roof material on a 2018 Rockwood Roo 233S? And the correct cleaning products for it? Thx!
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Old 06-01-2018, 04:14 AM   #20
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Anyone know offhand the roof material on a 2018 Rockwood Roo 233S? And the correct cleaning products for it? Thx!
In your paperwork, there should be a document from the roof manufacturer, that states type of material and cleaning recommendations.
there was in my 2007 Roo manual's paperwork. mine said TPO and recommended Murphy's Soap.
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