What kind of a screw mounts the exterior storage lockers locks?

[AverageGuy]

I have a 2011 Georgetown 378 that I'm unable to lock the water locker. The key only turns part way and won't go all the way to the left. I don't really relish leaving it unlocked. I was trying to either swap it for another less important cabinet or get it repaired. The two screws that appear to hold it in place look like Torx screws, but the T-15 is too small and the T-20 bit is too large. Any idea what that thing is? Once I get it out where might I find a replacement, if it comes to that?

It may be that the head is stripped, if so I'll cut a slot in the head with a Dremel and use a blade screwdriver. I also tried various hex bits.

Thanks,
Jim.

[Btm]

Most of the exterior screws on my Georgetown are #2 square.

Btm

[youroo]

Originally Posted by AverageGuy

I have a 2011 Georgetown 378 that I'm unable to lock the water locker. The key only turns part way and won't go all the way to the left. I don't really relish leaving it unlocked. I was trying to either swap it for another less important cabinet or get it repaired. The two screws that appear to hold it in place look like Torx screws, but the T-15 is too small and the T-20 bit is too large. Any idea what that thing is? Once I get it out where might I find a replacement, if it comes to that?

It may be that the head is stripped, if so I'll cut a slot in the head with a Dremel and use a blade screwdriver. I also tried various hex bits.

Thanks,
Jim.

Try a #2 square drive bit! Youroo

[Tapex]

Sometimes, I think manufacturers use special types of bolts and screws, just to make us as the consumer, go out to purchase tools designed for removing them!
In other words, engineering design for all users profit!

[AverageGuy]

Originally Posted by youroo

Try a #2 square drive bit! Youroo

I'm embarrassed. I've known about Robertson screws and their widespread use in the RV industry since the 60's when I saw them on my parents TT. My 71 coachman was held together with them too. I didn't even think of them this time. Guess I'm getting old.

Frankly I don't think that this lock has worked since it was installed. The way it works is pretty simple. The key turns a cylinder with a rectangular piece of metal attached. The metal is secure and not loose. The metal strip moves over what looks like a 1/8" solid cylinder cast into the mechanism when locked. When it is in place, the solid cylinder blocks the entire latch mechanism from moving which in turn prevents the latch from retracting. The piece of metal appears to be intact and not bent. The solid cylinder, as much as I can see of it, appears to be undamaged. It's just too long. The solid cylinder blocks the metal from sliding into place. I suppose one could grind the metal down a bit. It would be a trick to do it since it looks like it wasn't intended to be disassembled.

Thanks,
Jim.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by AverageGuy

I'm embarrassed. I've known about Robertson screws and their widespread use in the RV industry since the 60's when I saw them on my parents TT. My 71 coachman was held together with them too. I didn't even think of them this time. Guess I'm getting old.

Frankly I don't think that this lock has worked since it was installed. The way it works is pretty simple. The key turns a cylinder with a rectangular piece of metal attached. The metal is secure and not loose. The metal strip moves over what looks like a 1/8" solid cylinder cast into the mechanism when locked. When it is in place, the solid cylinder blocks the entire latch mechanism from moving which in turn prevents the latch from retracting. The piece of metal appears to be intact and not bent. The solid cylinder, as much as I can see of it, appears to be undamaged. It's just too long. The solid cylinder blocks the metal from sliding into place. I suppose one could grind the metal down a bit. It would be a trick to do it since it looks like it wasn't intended to be disassembled.

Thanks,
Jim.

Maybe just take the latch tongue off and put a thin flat washer under it. That will stand it off sufficiently from the external cylinder to give you the clearance you need.

Better yet, take the tongue off, turn it 90 degrees, and put it back on. (There is a square stud on the end of the rotating cylinder. The tongue can be installed in any of four orientations (eight if you count flipping the tongue over).

[AverageGuy]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Maybe just take the latch tongue off and put a thin flat washer under it. That will stand it off sufficiently from the external cylinder to give you the clearance you need.

Better yet, take the tongue off, turn it 90 degrees, and put it back on. (There is a square stud on the end of the rotating cylinder. The tongue can be installed in any of four orientations (eight if you count flipping the tongue over).

Good ideas. I'll give it a try. Thanks for naming the tongue.

Thanks,
Jim

[pmurph991]

You may want to check out this site.
http://https://shoprvlocks.com/wp-co...GUIDE-2020.pdf