Brookstone 360RL inside rear corner wall and floor wet

[Nick M]

While in FL doing our snowbird routine for the first year we discovered that the carpet was soaked in the right rear corner of our fiver. Wallpaper was wet also.

Directly above the wet spot is a fixed hehr window, doesn't open. I cleaned the window frame outside with rubbing alcohol and then caulked with clear outdoor silicon, across the top and down both sides, but not the bottom.

Rains in TN this week and my carpet is once again soaked and the wall is beginning to show water damage, however the floor is solid.

I do not see weep holes anywhere around the outside of the frame. Do I re-caulk the complete window frame on the outside or remove and reseal the window? Looks like a lot of screws on the inside that need to be removed to separate the inside of the window from the outside.

Any suggestions from this learned group? 😀

[Nick M]

Need technical info regarding this window. I've caulked 100% of the outside edge of the black seal strip (Glazing?) along with an adjacent marker light. After 24+ hours of rain I still have a small wet spot on the floor, right where the wall joins the floor in the right rear corner as you face the rear of the camper.

Also found standing water in the inside window channel. As a reminder, this is a fixed widow, does not open and there are no weep holes inside or outside.

Next item on my sealing plan is to caulk the outside of the glass at the edge that joins the soft rubber seal.

I found a youtube video yesterday showing the there is a soft rubber seal that can be removed from the outside. The glass is sealed to the window frame on the inside. The guy who posted the video removed the glass after cutting the inside seal, cleaned it all and then put a new seal strip on the frame, re-seated the glass and installed a new soft rubber seal strip (glazing?) on the outside. I can't figure if my window is made the same way.

Anyone have any experience with these windows? Picture attached, wondow is really vertical, don't know why it is shown horizontal.

[brookstone345sa]

Have you checked the roof seam where rear cap meets rubber roof?

[Nick M]

Yes, seam is clean and well caulked. Water does not appear inside until near the floor, no other signs of water in the wall from 8" above the floor to the ceiling. Roof was one of the first places I looked.

[brookstone345sa]

Mine has 3 clearance lights at top of fiberglass cap, does yours? Maybe another place to check

[Nick M]

Three clearance lights near the center/top of the rear cap. The seam between the rear cap and side wall is at the back rear corners of the living area. I've inspected the roof seams and the right rear cap/wall seam from the outside. The only possible point was the rear red side marker light, abou 8" above the floor and very close to the rear cap/wall seam. I pulled the marker light last week, could not feel any signs of water or damp but it had been a while since it was exposed to rain. The light base had not been caulked nor had the rear cap/wall seam at the light. Cleaned all that well with alcohol and caulked the seam and light base. I felt that this was the entry point for water as it is at the top of the wet point on the inside wall. I may have minimized the leak but haven't stopped it.

[DaveandSue]

You really need to have weep holes in the bottom of the frame.On my Chappy 370 FL the fixed windows all have at least one in the bottom of the frame.Condesation will form and run out and down the wall. It is still under warranty isn't it?If it is or isn't get it to a deal or make some of your own.Also get that thing dried out quick. Mold moves in fast.

[Nick M]

None of the Hehr fixed windows have weep holes but the slider windows do. The coach is 6 years old, I am second owner and this will be our third season to camp. The past two seasons there has never been any signs of water but after several weeks in FL in January and some hard, blowing rain we discovered this problem.

There are only two of these size windows in the coach, opposite each other at the rear and adjacent to the slides. If I take it to the dealer he will keep it for 2 months and likely just replace the complete window at some sky high price but hopefully that would solve the problem.

I have masked the window edges and sprayed Flex Seal clear around the frame and glazing seal on the outside. Next rain is due in here near the end of the coming week so I'll find out if that fixes the problem.

[wingedone]

It's tough when we haven't had the same problem to diagnose yours.

Your and my 5th are very similar. We have the same windows. As it is getting wet when sitting, not moving, it can't be coming up from the bottom (no way to wick it up).

There is the seam that connects our rear caps to the side panels. If it's not the window, that would be the only other place it could be coming in.

You mention it was blowing rain. That makes it more difficult.

Maybe get the hose out, run water around the window (and anywhere else it might be coming in) and have someone look, feel and listen for water intrusion.

[wingedone]

Update? Did you get it resolved?

[Nick M]

The last solution before removing the window ended like this:

Found a can of clear Flex Seal (As seen on TV!) and thought might as well try this. Cleaned the outside edge of the exterior frame and edge of glass at the glazing seal. Masked it up leaving only the edges, exterior and glazing seal/glass. Sprayed two coats of flex seal waiting 2 hours between thin coats. Waited 36 hours and removed all masking tape.

Since that time we have had two days of rain, sometimes heavy and blowing from the west. This problem window faces west. Checked the floor and wall after the rain and it was totally dry. I'm not ready to pronounce it leak free just yet but my fingers are crossed that it is fixed. If we get to October and no wet carpet I'll be a happy camper again.

My complaint with the flex seal is that there is no means of directing the spray and it sprays extremely hard. Difficult to get a light coat without spraying across 12 or more inches. If the pressure could be lowered and fine tuned with a tiny straw it would be ideal.

I have some cleanup to do with overspray and runs that got outside my masked off area so some elbow grease and goo gone will likely fix that. By the way, thanks for asking. I never thought about following up on this thread.

[wingedone]

Fingers crossed.