Doors bind when I use jacks to level 23 DBH

[Mike Sedillo]

MY 23 DBH has a front door and a back door at the bathroom. When I level the trailer with the jacks the doors bind even more. Any suggestions? (sorry for the sideways photos) They weren't sideways when I attached them.

[lazyjj]

The jacks in your pic are not suitable for leveling. They are stabilizer jacks only. Most of us carry leveling blocks that allow you to pull your tires up on for leveling unless you have a rig that has the self leveling system on it. More than likely the reason your doors are binding is due to the pressure you are putting on the frame by trying to level with your current set up. If the doors don't bind otherwise, that would be my best diagnosis.

[dieselguy]

Like mentioned your stabilizer scissor jacks are not put in place for leveling, just to brace your RV after leveling with say blocks under the tires. No intent to criticize as some owners use them wrong coast to coast. Read up on the subject on most any RV forum if in doubt of our position in response.

[D W]

Originally Posted by lazyjj

The jacks in your pic are not suitable for leveling. They are stabilizer jacks only. Most of us carry leveling blocks that allow you to pull your tires up on for leveling unless you have a rig that has the self leveling system on it. More than likely the reason your doors are binding is due to the pressure you are putting on the frame by trying to level with your current set up. If the doors don't bind otherwise, that would be my best diagnosis.

X2.

[Mike Sedillo]

If I'm camping where there are hook-ups and the ground is fairly level then I guess I don't really need to level the unit. I just need to crank those stabiizers a little bit until the unit stops rocking?

Thanks for those answers.

[dieselguy]

Everyone has a different definition of fairly level. Before I got a fiver with hydraulic Level Up ... I always carried a half dozen 2X8's about 2' long beveled at both ends for leveling ramps. (You can also use the lego leveling block sets) I used those assisted by a stick-on level attached to the side of the RV to get the side to side close, then the tongue jack to get the front to back close ... then I dropped the corner scissor jacks down with enough tension to take most of the wiggle out. I also carried a couple of sets of 4X4's nailed together to place under the scissor jacks to lessen the extension and further help sway.

[hack522]

X2. One additional comment, be sure the trailer is level before adhering the stick one. Use a four foot level inside the door with the unit detached from the TV. First time I attached mine, it was level [emoji3525]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

Everyone has a different definition of fairly level. Before I got a fiver with hydraulic Level Up ... I always carried a half dozen 2X8's about 2' long beveled at both ends for leveling ramps. (You can also use the lego leveling block sets) I used those assisted by a stick-on level attached to the side of the RV to get the side to side close, then the tongue jack to get the front to back close ... then I dropped the corner scissor jacks down with enough tension to take most of the wiggle out. I also carried a couple of sets of 4X4's nailed together to place under the scissor jacks to lessen the extension and further help sway.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Mike Sedillo

If I'm camping where there are hook-ups and the ground is fairly level then I guess I don't really need to level the unit. I just need to crank those stabiizers a little bit until the unit stops rocking?

Thanks for those answers.

Yep, just make them snug. You'll still have some movement but it takes out a lot.

For leveling, here's how you do it:
https://learntorv.com/rv-leveling-is...uick-and-easy/

[Bob2019]

Another idea that worked for me when using the stabilizer jacks to level. Put a hydraulic jack on the edge of the frame that contains the trailer swivel leaf spring between the two trailer tires. (Do not put the jack on any springs) Place a jack on each side of the trailer. This really takes out the trailer rock movement. This also keeps the frame getting so much pressure from the stabilizer jacks that doors bind. What you are doing with the hydraulic jacks is pushing the trailer up in the center so you can put down the stabilizer jack more so to level your trailer. It is surprising how this helps. Remember, if you are really unlevel drive up on boards to get it close to level before using hydraulic and stabilizer jacks. Done this for at least 10 years.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Mike Sedillo

If I'm camping where there are hook-ups and the ground is fairly level then I guess I don't really need to level the unit. I just need to crank those stabiizers a little bit until the unit stops rocking?

Thanks for those answers.

Yep, NEVER use stabilizing Jack's for leveling. You use blocks like Lynx Levelers or wood, under the tires for side to side. Then the tongue jack for front to back.
Hope you didn't tweak the frame permanently.