New door hard to close

melissa16 · 12-08-2013, 02:17 PM

We took our new Vengeance out for the first time. The front door seems to stick, meaning you have to slam it to get the locking part to close. Or hold the handle open then close it. The rear door doesn't have this problem. I have looked all over the area where the lock mech. is and can't see a high part or wear marks. Should we mention it to the dealer when we go back for some other PDI fixes we need done or is it normal? Everything else worked great except the shower head shattered the first time we used it. Thankfully wal-mart had a replacement!

**ependydad** · 12-10-2013, 10:26 AM

I think if one door works and the other doesn't, then it is definitely something for the dealer to look at. I'm very anti-door slamming in any situation.

Not a Vengeance, but our door is hard to close and it makes me crazy. My dealer was a big fat zero, so I'm hopeful that the factory does right by me since it is back for other stuff.

AquaMan · 12-10-2013, 11:06 AM

Check all around the door for any type of wear. If possible, have someone close from the outside slowly while looking on the inside for any contact points. Find the point of any resistance and while "working the door" at the point, check for any movement in the frame. A bind on the hinge side could cause a door to stick also.

AVid · 12-10-2013, 11:22 AM

If the door doesn't seem to be rubbing anywhere on the frame, then it's possible all you need to do is adjust the striker. Loosen the screws and slide it very slightly towards the outside and tighten. May have to move it again, just a little until it closes easily.

John

5 hole · 12-10-2013, 11:44 AM

I have found when I put the stab jacks down and 'lift' the trailer a bit to achieve level that my door would go out of square and be hard to close. If I back off on the stab jacks a bit, it would help...

**ependydad** · 12-10-2013, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5 hole

I have found when I put the stab jacks down and 'lift' the trailer a bit to achieve level that my door would go out of square and be hard to close. If I back off on the stab jacks a bit, it would help...

That's a good point, but not quite what you're saying - you shouldn't use the stabilizer jacks for leveling.

If you're using the stabilizer jacks for leveling, it can cause twist to your camper which can cause doors to jamb such as this.

RKR · 12-10-2013, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5 hole

I have found when I put the stab jacks down and 'lift' the trailer a bit to achieve level that my door would go out of square and be hard to close. If I back off on the stab jacks a bit, it would help...

X2
My first trip out I put just a little lift with my stabilizers. The first time we used the bathroom the door wouldn't latch. When we were about to leave and the jacks and stabilizers were up I went inside to secure the door so it would bang around while driving and it closed securely. My rookie move.

wrapperman · 01-14-2014, 10:34 PM

Dear Melissa 16

I had the same issue on my new 2103 georgetown xl 378
Not only was the strike plate too high I had to grind a little on the outside door frame so I could lower the plate more than what it would go. I also had to pry the strike plate out a little. The bolts on the locking mechanism was hitting the inside of the strike plate.
It really didn't show much wear where it was hitting.
I can take pictures if you like and send them to you.
After I adjusted the strike plate the door works great whether the jacks are up or down. No more slamming or pushing the door to make sure it latches closed.

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