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Old 06-18-2019, 05:48 PM   #21
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Yes it's that metal tube in the electrical isles
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:23 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by old40ford View Post
How far apart did you drill your holes? I am a little confused on that for mine, like you I am too tight to pay for the painters poles.


Sorry for the late response. I think 3” for me. OC posted the dimensions on here. I will try and find.

I cut the 10ft pcs in half....I get a solid 8+ ft, but I never make them that long.

I also found some bacolight(sp) bushings at work to fit the Id of the larger, but because of the seam found it difficult to install so I abandoned that project after one pole. I haven’t even noticed when deploying.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:46 PM   #23
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Well pickle. I can’t find it, but I have it on my desktop at work. I will try and lay off the booze till I post it....unless someone else has a copy.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:49 PM   #24
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I have the aluminum, that is what came when I bought the brackets from Turbs. I have seen painter poles, EMT, etc. You can buy aluminum tubing sections at most industrial supply houses. Dillon Supply happens to be one in my part of the country. I believe Grainger stocks some too. Shop around. Mine has several holes drilled in it to allow for the pin clips. I have seen a few with the twist grip lock. Those are the painter poles.

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Old 06-18-2019, 09:36 PM   #25
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On the instructions from OC, it says 1.5" spacing. Just getting ready to paint and install my brackets. And like Iwannacamp, I am going to use 3/4" and 1/2 " conduit. Hope my paint job looks half as good as yours, Iwannacamp!
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:02 AM   #26
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here it is...


Forest River Forums - Downloads - Awning - New Updated DWG of the Poles
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:25 PM   #27
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I have this from Shade Pro and love it. Gives extra shade, provides privacy, sheds rain fairly well, seems to help with bugs, and is very sturdy. However, I like the way poles keep the area open.
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:09 PM   #28
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I did the metal EMT poles. Ended up using 2 pcs 1/2”, 2 pcs 3/4”. Went by a commercial job site and asked the electrician if he had some scrap pieces. Used the spring clamps OC sent with my poles. Holes every 1 1/2”., only the inner pole needs the holes. Also, they rattle every time the door shuts when stowed. So I took a few wraps of good electrical tape every 2 feet or so on the inner pole.

For stakes, I am using concrete form stakes with a large flat washer welded to it and hooking Harbor Freight tie-downs.

No wonder stuff keeps rolling off the roof....LOL
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:36 PM   #29
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I use clothes line props to support my awning. Then two straps from the awning roller to tent stakes in the ground. Have been in 35 mph gusts with no problems.
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Old 06-28-2019, 06:56 AM   #30
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So, what are the reasons for having awning tie down poles? I've never had an awning on any of my RVs until now.
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Old 06-28-2019, 07:22 AM   #31
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So, what are the reasons for having awning tie down poles? I've never had an awning on any of my RVs until now.
An awning can easily be lifted up in moderate (or less) winds. It’s also possible to have winds force the awning down which causes support arm damage. Poles help prevent that.

Lotsa opinions about how effective they are. Some say awning should be retracted if winds reach 15 knots...others say 30 knots. If installed correctly the pole is aggressively held down to the ground via straps, usually with adjustable cinch mechanisms. The tie down should be something like the three-point “claw” system (search Amazon for The Claw). When in place all the pressures are on the pole. The awning is just sitting on top of the pole.
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Old 06-28-2019, 07:49 AM   #32
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If you are looking for aluminum seamless tubing try McMaster-Carr Supply. I used 6063 in 1" and 3/4" od. Not cheap by any means, but look real nice
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:04 AM   #33
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If you are looking for aluminum seamless tubing try McMaster-Carr Supply. I used 6063 in 1" and 3/4" od. Not cheap by any means, but look real nice
Thanks for that source info. I’ve been looking for 6063 U-channel ever since it dropped off Amazon. One four foot section of that is enough to make four complete sets of brackets.
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:14 AM   #34
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Thanks for that source info. I’ve been looking for 6063 U-channel ever since it dropped off Amazon. One four foot section of that is enough to make four complete sets of brackets.
I'm still using the Camco corkscrew style stakes and haven't had any issue using them. Ratcheting tie downs straps.

If you have access to machine tools, makes doing the poles spot on. Mine adjust in 2 1/2" increments. O.A.L. on poles is right at 5' collapsed
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:27 AM   #35
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I use EMT conduit, the Claw and lashing straps instead of ratcheting straps. My holes in the conduit are every 1-1/2"

I prefer lashing straps over ratcheting for quick, easy removal of the strap in case of the need to retract the awning quickly.

In less than 10 seconds I can release the lashing strap (push button) and remove the hook at the Claw and begin retracting the awning. The pole and strap remain attached at the top and they simply lay back against the arm once retracted where they can then be dealt with once the awning is safely stowed.



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Old 06-28-2019, 09:21 AM   #36
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i bought the Wooster paint poles, cut the threads off and drilled a hole through the aluminum that remains and use the pin that came with the brackets. I tried the EMT but didn't like how they stick out further than the awning arms, they stick out into my line of site. I just pull the poles off and put them in the pass through. Form stakes with a caribiner to connect to. I use the cinch/tie down straps but I add a spring between the stake and strap, keeps constant pressure on the awning but doesn't stress it.
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:04 AM   #37
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FWIW, I got a set of OC'c brackets. Took them to one of several local powder coating places and had them done in gloss black. By telling the place I was in no hurry and to include with some other work in the same color, they did the job for $20 and completed in about a week. Powder coating should hold up better than a home done paint job...


On my easy-up legs, I decided I needed a bit more length. Initially I used a couple of pieces of 3/4" nm EMT. I can put a 30" section into the legs and get a nice extension that is very stable. With my current setup, the legs can be set anywhere from 6' to 9.5'. However, the plastic scratches very easily, so I'm now thinking about getting some 3/4 square aluminum tubing from Menards and having it PC'd. I read on another of the awning pole threads, another option to handle scratching is to put some felt on the bottom of the inner tube and top of the outer tube. Probably a bit of a pain to attache the top section, I haven't tried that yet...
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Old 06-28-2019, 12:55 PM   #38
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I have PVC poles I made for the OC brackets but they are starting to warp in the heat. They work fine but was thinking of either the EMT conduit but that seemed heavy compared to the PVC pipe I am using now. Any other ideas like an aluminum conduit or similar and where to get if that is even a thing. Thanks.
Aluminum EMT is the way to go ....

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Old 06-28-2019, 09:39 PM   #39
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5Picker, I like the idea of lashing straps. Thanks for the idea! Another reason to love the forum, is all the ideas we give each other!

By the way, since I added a few wraps of electrical tape every 2 feet on the poles, they dot get scratched as often. My initial intent was to keep them from rattling every time I opened or closed the door if they were stowed.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:15 PM   #40
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A good way to prevent rattling when the poles are stowed is to intentionally drill the mounting pin holes about ⅛ inch off center. You can still stow the pole but it puts enough pressure to prevent rattling.
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