Tying down electric awning

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Carrier

I need new glasses as I missed the Motor Home. I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but have a hard time believing about going down road with it out.

Just like the rest of us [emoji6]

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[Iwritecode]

I wonder if this is it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef-Xks-GmbY

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

I wonder if this is it?

Possibly.
But even so that obviously isn't the awning system we all have.

55 mph winds on our awnings would rip them completely off the camper. [emoji12]

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[OldCoot]

That's not the same type awning that is on 99% of our trailers. Our awnings would be a twisted mess if subjected to that without the poles and tie downs.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

That's not the same type awning that is on 99% of our trailers. Our awnings would be a twisted mess if subjected to that without the poles and tie downs.

Totally agree.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I find it interesting that those that don't have or have never used the awning poles are so learned in what they will or will not do in weather. I guess our 2-3 yrs experience using them is for naught.

Ditto.

Have had my OC Poles and Brackets out using screw tie downs and cargo straps (NO SPRINGS OR BUNGIES PLEASE!) when a thunderstorm blew in unexpectedly.

I was really worried about what I would find as we raced back to the campground. I was really pleasantly surprised to find our awning intact (though the screws had loosened some) and the neighbors looking at our awning in wonder. Two other campers with electric awnings deployed suffered damage.

True story and no BS...

[Herk7769]

Here is a good awning video that talks about not "overextending" your awning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZzTbIGF7-Y

[Herk7769]

By leaving a quarter wrap of awning material on the top of the roller, water will not "pool" on the awning but roll off the front of the roller.

This is what a "over extended" awning looks like and water will pool in the "gutter" during a sudden heavy rain and will actually BOW a long awning until it bends.

[Carrier]

Ok this electric awninging thing has me perplexed. I have a dometric 9100E the same as several I have seen at the seasonal site I'm at. They all have ratchet straps hooked on each end of the roller and either tied back to the trailer or to the screw anchors in the ground. Two have been doing this for several years and another since last year and he has another screen attached to the awning roller that stretches out about 10 or so feet and tied to the ground with ropes and stakes. They all swear there has been no issues. They all leave their awnings out in the wind or rain for the week or so they are there then unhook straps and bring awning in when they leave.
Awnings all seem to work fine and no bent arms or any issues I can see.
There has also been a few that I see that have an "add a room" on as well and they seem to work just fine.
Now I'm just the messenger here and not trying to start an argument but with mine if just a little breeze starts then its banging and flopping and we have to bring it in 10 times a day. So whats the deal here can or can it not be done safely with just using straps?
I get that the poles would make the awning more stable but I can't find any up here where I'm at and am getting really tired of this awning crap.

[Toddupton]

Just make your own poles or buy some from Home Depot

[Herk7769]

I have seen awning supports made with PVC "T" fittings of the correct diameter for the awning roller in the cross bar of the "T" cut in half to support the roller and a vertical telescoping slip tube for the legs.

Drill a series of holes 1 inch apart in the smaller diameter leg and use D Clevis pins to adjust the leg height.

While I am only guessing at measurements, the idea would be like a 4 inch x 4 inch x 3/4 inch "T" Cut the 4x4 cross bar "top" off with a band saw to make the roller "yoke". Make the top "leg" out of 3/4 inch PVC pipe with the adjustment holes and a 1 inch PVC pipe for the lower leg.

Loop the tie down strap over the roller (supported by the yoke and leg) and tie to a screw in (or bucket of sand) to keep the roller from moving up and down. There should be no weight on the arms at all using this method and the tension will be along the material of the awning so the material will not "flap" in a normal wind.

Drop the legs if thunderstorms are forecast as the contraption won't handle strong winds (above about 20 MPH) due to forces acting on the camper mounts.

[Herk7769]

Or use OC's pre-made brackets and Turbs Poles.

[aceinspp]

Good video of operation and noises you may hear. More folks should view it. Thanks for posting. Later RJD

[arpipeliner]

Carrier, I know the same thing but the ones I see have the awning pulled all the way down. Lowest position and then the door rubs it.

They see the poles on my camper and all say they need that. If they have never seen it they aren't aware of what can be done.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[bob caldwell]

Could even go one step further by making adjustable telescopic de-flapper poles that stay attached to awning hardware bolted to trailer.

[Carrier]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Or use OC's pre-made brackets and Turbs Poles.

Are those brackets riveted onto the arm?

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Carrier

Are those brackets riveted onto the arm?

Upper uses one existing bolt and then riveted in another location that needs to be drilled.

Lower is also riveted.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Carrier

Are those brackets riveted onto the arm?

Not riveted, bolted on with stainless steel bolts. One bolt is factory and another is furnished with the kit along with a ss nyloc nut. You have to drill one hole for each upper bracket using the bracket as a template.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Not riveted, bolted on with stainless steel bolts. One bolt is factory and another is furnished with the kit along with a ss nyloc nut. You have to drill one hole for each upper bracket using the bracket as a template.

Yep, never mind, the lowers I was making I started using rivets then went to stainless countersunk bolts.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by TURBS

Upper uses one existing bolt and then riveted in another location that needs to be drilled.

Lower is also riveted.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "11 nights"

Lower bracket is the only place rivets are used. The upper bracket uses the factory bolt in the upper 11/32" dia hole and drill the other 11/32" dia hole in the upper bracket. NO RIVETS IN THE UPPER BRACKET.