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Old 10-28-2020, 01:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
You don't even need a voltmeter to do this test. Have an assistant in the driver's seat. Stand in front of the vehicle, 5-10 feet away. Have the assistant turn on the headlights and then attempt to start the vehicle with the headlights on. With charged batteries and good, low-resistance connections, the headlights should be white, then dim slightly when the engine is cranking.

With a low charge, the headlights will be yellow or orange, even before cranking starts.

With a good charge but high-resistance connections, they will white or slightly orange before cranking, and will go to orange, red, or out while cranking.

Learned this trick in the 1960s. (Nowadays it doesn't apply to halogen lamps, HID lamps, or circuits that kill the headlights while cranking.)
No headlights at all....no horn...no radio...no dash lights....the levels don't work and the lights for the levels don't even come on....It is ACTING like the slide outs are out and the failsafe is engaged....but the slide outs are IN and work fine going out and in....it's plugged in to power so everything in the back works....
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Old 10-28-2020, 02:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
You don't even need a voltmeter to do this test. Have an assistant in the driver's seat. Stand in front of the vehicle, 5-10 feet away. Have the assistant turn on the headlights and then attempt to start the vehicle with the headlights on. With charged batteries and good, low-resistance connections, the headlights should be white, then dim slightly when the engine is cranking.

With a low charge, the headlights will be yellow or orange, even before cranking starts.

With a good charge but high-resistance connections, they will white or slightly orange before cranking, and will go to orange, red, or out while cranking.

Learned this trick in the 1960s. (Nowadays it doesn't apply to halogen lamps, HID lamps, or circuits that kill the headlights while cranking.)
I had a guy smarter than me help. He jumped the solenoid with a screw driver and it turns over really good. He wanted to know if you think it would still be the same case knowing that it turned over by jumping the solenoid with a screw driver? Does that make sense?
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Old 10-28-2020, 02:09 PM   #23
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I'm sure you know this, but your motorhome has two separate battery systems. The house battery systems which operate things like the slides and 12 volt lights, etc. and the chassis batteries.

Since you have no chassis functions, not even horn nor headlights, it sounds like there's an issue at the chassis battery system. I may be wrong, but if it was the slide safety all the lights and the horn would work, it just wouldn't crank.
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Old 10-28-2020, 02:40 PM   #24
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Cranks well with solenoid jumped.

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Originally Posted by themusicman View Post
I had a guy smarter than me help. He jumped the solenoid with a screw driver and it turns over really good. He wanted to know if you think it would still be the same case knowing that it turned over by jumping the solenoid with a screw driver? Does that make sense?
If it cranks well when the solenoid is jumped, the battery is obviously good. Normal cranking is probably inhibited by one of the safety switches. There are a couple.
  • Is the transmission in Park or Neutral?
  • Is someone stepping on the brake pedal?
  • Is the slideout in?
  • Are the steps in?
  • More?
Each of those is tested by a mechanical switch. If the switch fails internally or even comes loose on its mounting so it doesn't operate, starting will be inhibited. Since this started as a slideout issue, maybe the slideout switch is not depressed. If you can find it and jumper it. that will explain things. Otherwise, try jumpering each of the others.
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Old 10-28-2020, 03:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I'm sure you know this, but your motorhome has two separate battery systems. The house battery systems which operate things like the slides and 12 volt lights, etc. and the chassis batteries.

Since you have no chassis functions, not even horn nor headlights, it sounds like there's an issue at the chassis battery system. I may be wrong, but if it was the slide safety all the lights and the horn would work, it just wouldn't crank.
That's what I was thinking....based on logic....no one can figure out what the issue is though...I have a car mechanic here now.....he doesn't know motorhomes at all but is trying to trace the issue
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Old 10-28-2020, 04:02 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
If it cranks well when the solenoid is jumped, the battery is obviously good. Normal cranking is probably inhibited by one of the safety switches. There are a couple.
  • Is the transmission in Park or Neutral?
  • Is someone stepping on the brake pedal?
  • Is the slideout in?
  • Are the steps in?
  • More?
Each of those is tested by a mechanical switch. If the switch fails internally or even comes loose on its mounting so it doesn't operate, starting will be inhibited. Since this started as a slideout issue, maybe the slideout switch is not depressed. If you can find it and jumper it. that will explain things. Otherwise, try jumpering each of the others.

Tried Neutral and Park
Emergency brake was in....also tried it off
Tried stepping on brake....and not
slide out is IN
Steps go in and out as the door closes....they are working because I am plugged in to an outlet

Tried it when NOT plugged in as well


We don't have any idea where mechanical switches are or what to look for????


Thanks in advance
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Old 10-28-2020, 07:50 PM   #27
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I think the only common link for the issues you are having is the ignition switch. I believe the steering column wiring exits the column near the firewall (floor) at the base of the steering column. I think there's two connectors. Just thinking. Steps are working because they are inline fused directly to the coach batteries.
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:28 PM   #28
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I believe that if the front windshield shade is not retracted enough the motor will not start either..
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Old 10-30-2020, 02:45 PM   #29
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I think the only common link for the issues you are having is the ignition switch. I believe the steering column wiring exits the column near the firewall (floor) at the base of the steering column. I think there's two connectors. Just thinking. Steps are working because they are inline fused directly to the coach batteries.

Someone else suggested the ignition switch but would that cause the lights not to work? The radio not to work? The horn?

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2020, 06:51 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by themusicman View Post
Someone else suggested the ignition switch but would that cause the lights not to work? The radio not to work? The horn?

Thanks
The only one of those that would not work is the radio with the ignition switch OFF but the radio would work if ignition switch is set to ON or ACC. Lights/horn should work with ignition OFF. What I don't know is how the ignition switch ties it all together; I can't locate any wiring diagrams/schematics. It's like a HOT feed might be missing but don't know from where it comes.
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Old 11-03-2020, 01:23 PM   #31
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PROBLEM SOLVED

There was a bad connection to the Power Distribution Box.

I had a mechanic with lots of electrical experience come look and he found it in 30 minutes.

Everything works as it should.

Thanks for all the help, suggestions and comments. I appreciate all of you

Rob
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