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Old 10-17-2020, 05:27 PM   #1
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2004 Georgetown won't start AFTER putting slide back in

I had it running.....shut it off to put slide out......30 minutes later put slide out back in and now it won't turn over.

It's ACTING like the slide out is still out but its not?

The slide goes in and out fine but RV doesn't start.

Also no horn, lights, gauges, radio etc.


Help?

Fuse? Battery?

Rob
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Old 10-17-2020, 07:21 PM   #2
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That sounds like a main battery fuse.
If it was a slide limit switch the dash would light up it just wouldn't crank.
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Old 10-18-2020, 10:14 AM   #3
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If your 2004 GT has an emergency (AUX) start switch have you tried it?
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Old 10-19-2020, 02:52 PM   #4
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We cannot find a bad fuse for the main battery? We do not have a diagram to show which one it would be. We have checked multiple fuses so far.

We do not see any switches for emergency aux start?

Sorry.....I am pretty dumb when it comes to all this.
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:26 PM   #5
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You have the F53 chassis. Go to the Ford chassis site and you can download a manual for the chassis part there. It will show you where all the fuses installed by Ford are located.
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Old 10-19-2020, 04:02 PM   #6
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First off.......we’re ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN the engine battery in the engine compartment has good 12+ volts minimum? No loose cables?

Do you have a momentary rocker switch somewhere in the cockpit, with a symbol on it that either looks like a lightning bolt or a battery? That would be your battery boost switch to momentarily connect the house and engine batteries together to try things.
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Old 10-19-2020, 04:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themusicman View Post
I had it running.....shut it off to put slide out......30 minutes later put slide out back in and now it won't turn over.

It's ACTING like the slide out is still out but its not?

The slide goes in and out fine but RV doesn't start.

Also no horn, lights, gauges, radio etc.


Help?

Fuse? Battery?

Rob
Did you by accident hit the battery shut off switch for the engine.Also when I use my slides I keep the motor running. Also as mentioned try the emergency start which should on the dash our on the driver side near your window. You should hear a clunking sound, if not the main solenoid in the battery control box could be broken. Good luck.
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Old 10-19-2020, 04:16 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by steven skare View Post
Did you by accident hit the battery shut off switch for the engine.Also when I use my slides I keep the motor running. Also as mentioned try the emergency start which should on the dash our on the driver side near your window. You should hear a clunking sound, if not the main solenoid in the battery control box could be broken. Good luck.

Not sure if you ever had a Georgetown, but......


My 2010 Georgetown did NOT have a battery shut off for the engine.
My hydraulic jacks worked with engine running, and emergency brake ON, but NOT the slides. It was a safety design to not allow slides to be deployed while driving.
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Old 10-19-2020, 04:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
Not sure if you ever had a Georgetown, but......


My 2010 Georgetown did NOT have a battery shut off for the engine.
My hydraulic jacks worked with engine running, and emergency brake ON, but NOT the slides. It was a safety design to not allow slides to be deployed while driving.
My Bounder has the same system for the slides, but I do have a Shut off for the house batteries and the main battery for the motor. Like I mentioned you might have a faulty solenoid. Mine is in the battery control centre,which on mineis in the engine compartment. I hope you find the problem. It can be frustrating.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:19 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the replies.

There doesn't seem to be any shut off switches...

We have never been able to run our Georgetown engine and slides at the same time....if slides are out the engine won't start.....if engine is on....the slides don't go out...

We can't find any schematic or diagram that shows the fuses....still looking

It is probably a simple solution but I am just not a mechanical minded guy.....I have some friends looking at it too...

Thanks for all the suggestions.....if anyone has any others please feel free to respond.

Thanks

Rob
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themusicman View Post
Thanks for all the replies.

There doesn't seem to be any shut off switches...

We have never been able to run our Georgetown engine and slides at the same time....if slides are out the engine won't start.....if engine is on....the slides don't go out...

We can't find any schematic or diagram that shows the fuses....still looking

It is probably a simple solution but I am just not a mechanical minded guy.....I have some friends looking at it too...

Thanks for all the suggestions.....if anyone has any others please feel free to respond.

Thanks

Rob
So, unlike later GT models there is an ignition/slide out interlock that defeats the ignition if a slide out is out? Later GT's do defeat the slide out switches from operating with the ignition switch on but does not defeat the ignition switch at anytime no matter slides out or in. If yours is configured the way you say it does sound like there is an ignition/slide interlock issue. I do not know where that interlock would be accomplished. In later GT's I think it is in the BCC but don't know if your GT has one.
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Old 10-20-2020, 02:04 PM   #12
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Personally I would only operate slides when plugged into shore power OR the truck is running. Just my two cents.
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Old 10-20-2020, 03:17 PM   #13
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Personally I would only operate slides when plugged into shore power OR the truck is running. Just my two cents.
Shore power, yes, but there is no truck involved with this thread. It's a motorhome and the ignition must be off to extend slides.
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Old 10-20-2020, 06:08 PM   #14
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Is your awning all the way in?
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Old 10-20-2020, 07:05 PM   #15
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I have 2004 Georgetown and the slide out usually won't move if the engine is running. That being said while on vacation we pulled out from the campgrounds and I just got on the highway and notice I had failed to retract a rear slide. I haven't checked that yet, but I would set the parking brake and also make sure your jacks {If you have any} are fully retracted. Check to make sure the slide is fully retracted. The battery shut off is usually found next to the steps going out the door. This shut off will not shut off the main engine battery only the house battery.
If you have a volt meter you can check the voltage of your battery. The emergency start switches if you have any should be located on the left side of your dash under or around your head light switch.
Good luck, I hope you get it going.
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Old 10-20-2020, 07:14 PM   #16
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Mechanical switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by themusicman View Post
Thanks for all the replies.

There doesn't seem to be any shut off switches...

We have never been able to run our Georgetown engine and slides at the same time....if slides are out the engine won't start.....if engine is on....the slides don't go out...

We can't find any schematic or diagram that shows the fuses....still looking

It is probably a simple solution but I am just not a mechanical minded guy.....I have some friends looking at it too...

Thanks for all the suggestions.....if anyone has any others please feel free to respond.

Thanks

Rob
Rob, I know nothing about Georgetowns. But your statement above (in red) sounds like there is a mechanical switch which senses when all the slides are in and enables the engine-start.

Can you crawl around under the slides and see if you can find such a thing? Maybe it's worked loose so the slide isn't depressing it sufficiently.

Just an educated guess.
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Old Yesterday, 12:54 AM   #17
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The problems you have, combined with the age of the rig provides a clue to a possible issue. The lights and horn are powered directly from the chassis battery. If none are working, there's a good chance you have a corroded ground connection between the battery and the chassis and/or engine block. Trace the ground cable from the battery and remove any ground connections then clean up the connection areas and reattach the ground cables.

I've assumed that you checked the battery to verify that it has a charge on it. If you can get an assistant, check the voltage while trying to start the engine. You should see a significant voltage drop when the starter solenoid kicks in. The headlights should also provide a smaller voltage drop when turned on. If there's no voltage drop, you have a bad ground or you blew the fusable link which should be located in the battery's + lead.

Phil
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Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM   #18
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You don't even need a voltmeter!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsherman View Post
The problems you have, combined with the age of the rig provides a clue to a possible issue. The lights and horn are powered directly from the chassis battery. If none are working, there's a good chance you have a corroded ground connection between the battery and the chassis and/or engine block. Trace the ground cable from the battery and remove any ground connections then clean up the connection areas and reattach the ground cables.

I've assumed that you checked the battery to verify that it has a charge on it. If you can get an assistant, check the voltage while trying to start the engine. You should see a significant voltage drop when the starter solenoid kicks in. The headlights should also provide a smaller voltage drop when turned on. If there's no voltage drop, you have a bad ground or you blew the fusable link which should be located in the battery's + lead.

Phil
You don't even need a voltmeter to do this test. Have an assistant in the driver's seat. Stand in front of the vehicle, 5-10 feet away. Have the assistant turn on the headlights and then attempt to start the vehicle with the headlights on. With charged batteries and good, low-resistance connections, the headlights should be white, then dim slightly when the engine is cranking.

With a low charge, the headlights will be yellow or orange, even before cranking starts.

With a good charge but high-resistance connections, they will white or slightly orange before cranking, and will go to orange, red, or out while cranking.

Learned this trick in the 1960s. (Nowadays it doesn't apply to halogen lamps, HID lamps, or circuits that kill the headlights while cranking.)
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