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Old 06-15-2017, 04:00 AM   #1
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Georgetown 351ds front slide not working

I know there are a lot of slide not working posts, but I have gone through the basics and still can't figure it out. I have a 2015 georgetown 351ds. I was in Elkhart for a tour of the forest river motorhome plant (which was awesome btw) When I left Elkhart, both slides went in normally. When I got home and parked in my driveway the rear slide went out but the front did not. I am certain that it is not mechanical. It does not make any noise at all, or even try to move in either direction. The coach is level on the jacks with the ignition off. The coach is plugged into a 30 amp power outlet, and the rear slide works so it is not a whole coach power issue. I found the 25 amp self resetting fuse in the electrical panel and it is good. I even swapped the one from the rear slide to the front slide and the problem did not move. I have 14v measured with a multi meter at the 3 way toggle switch for the slide and when I depress the switch each way I get 14v going out the corresponding wire so the switch is good. There is a wire from the control box in the battery compartment for the slide switch ignition cutoff but it can't be that because A) the ignition is off and B) the rear slide works. I really need the electrical diagram for the slide. If there is an ignition cutoff wire, it must go to a relay somewhere. Where are the relays located in my coach? I have not checked power at the motor yet because the slide is in and it's really hard to get the trim off to access the motor. Any suggestions or prints would be a great help. I am supposed to leave for a 4 week trip on Tuesday so time is critical.

Thanks in advance for any help

David

Ps it is an electric slide not hydraulic. It uses cables not a track and gears.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:34 PM   #2
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If the motor isn't working at all, I would check the power at the motor. If you aren't getting power at the motor, I would look for an inline fuse. The motor isn't hard to get to. The molding over the slide out is actually in 3 or 4 separate pieces. The motor in my 369ds is behind the middle one.
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Old 06-29-2017, 12:17 PM   #3
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Thank you for the advice. I took the moulding off and the wire had pulled out of the crimp connection. Spliced it with a marette and it is working now.
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Old 06-29-2017, 12:51 PM   #4
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One thing I learned from replacing the gear box is that the cables in mine were set too tight from the factory. With the new gear box the manufacturer told me how to realign. With the unit all the way out, the chain connected to the out connectors on both sides should be very tight, the In chain should be tight with 1/2 movement up and down. Mine were sagging to the top of the slideout. Once I adjusted them correctly, the unit moves in and out much quieter than it did from the factory and much faster. That extra bind started stripping my gearbox.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:16 AM   #5
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I have to replace my gearbox in my 2015 351DS what is the best way to take the old gearbox out do I need to disconnect the chain or just loosen them.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:35 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by george2015 View Post
I have to replace my gearbox in my 2015 351DS what is the best way to take the old gearbox out do I need to disconnect the chain or just loosen them.

Loosen them. The way the MFG told me was to take it all the way out, put a couple of 2x4's to brace the slide out so it doesn't tip when you take the chain off. There will be tension on those teeth when you do this. Here were my steps:
  • If possible extend Slide out all the way (also best way to get to the actual box)
  • Brace with 2 - 2x4s to make sure it doesn't tip on you.
  • Mark the first open link from the sprocket on both chains with a zip tie. This will save you from guessing. You may not be able to get it all the way to that point on installation, but we were able to get it as close as one link and that worked great.
  • Loosen all 8 cables and loosen the bracket from the chain. a couple will be hard to reach. I had to take down more of the panels that were covering. These are held in by staples through the flat round over molding. You can get this off, but go slow and patient so you don't break that molding.
  • You will still have at this point you will need to take a screwdriver and work that chain off the one sprocket that is holding the whole works together.
  • after you get the new one installed. The proper alignment is all the way out, the "Out" brackets should be super tight and the "In" brackets should be tight but not as tight. They should have less than a 1/2 inch of up down movement.
I was taking my time so not to break anything, but from beginning to end it took me and a friend about 2 hours.

Good Luck!
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:37 AM   #7
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Let me back up. I think we did have to remove one of the chains completely, but make sure it's one you can reach easily.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:52 AM   #8
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Thanks for the help tryig to get into my local dealer is a pain. Not sure why they had to inclosed the top so much since it has the cover you have to take off. I figured I had to remove more panels to get to the loosening brackets. So it only needs two supports to hold the slide from tipping. Did you have any issues with the slide going back in tightly. I have read it can be a pain to adjust.
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:01 AM   #9
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Where did you get the info from manufacturer? I tried to look online but could not find any specs to do the replacement of the gearbox. That is why I went to this forum.
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:14 AM   #10
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I ordered my replacement straight from Norco Industries and talked to one of the reps for them. For the supports, I just had 2 and cut them to the length needed for them to carry the load straight up and down.

The adjustment wasn't bad. There are a couple of videos out there on youtube that I studied just to see the adjustment. The one in particular was the 7 min Accuslide adjustment. This was the closest to mirroring what I did and shows the things to be concerned with on twisting of the cables and how they are supposed to look.
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:16 AM   #11
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One of the things I found is that the unit was setup way to tight from the MFG. This aided in it's demise. Once you adjust it properly (when out, the "out" is super tight and the in is not as tight with very little play) the unit operates much quicker and much quieter.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:10 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the info planning on getting it done this coming week. Will read and watch that YouTube wish they had the you tube to replace the gearbox I only saw the motor, and really did not need that video to do the motor. I bought a complete set gearbox and motor all together so I could have a backup motor. If I had to do it manually it would take forever with the tight access you have.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:22 PM   #13
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I purchased a right angle attachment for my impact wrench. Saved my knuckles a lot of banging.
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:10 PM   #14
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Sandypause thanks for heads up on the process gearbox in. Do not know why they enclosed all the cable above had to remove to get access to them and put it back next time I will cut out like the few they did. Seems to work alot better when the out is tighter.
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Old 08-29-2017, 12:06 PM   #15
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Anyone out there know what the 7.5 amp fuse in the battery control box is for? It keeps blowing when we start the vehicles engine. 2012 Georgetown 38.
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Old 08-29-2017, 12:27 PM   #16
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Anyone out there know what the 7.5 amp fuse in the battery control box is for? It keeps blowing when we start the vehicles engine. 2012 Georgetown 38.
In my GT378 that fuse (7.5 amp) in the BCC is "ignition hot" "ignition lockout". In my BCC the 7.5/10/15 amp adjacent fuses are tied together (in parallel) and provide 12 volt outputs for ignition lockouts and interlocks. I'm not sure of where those 3 outputs terminate but sounds like one of yours is possibly grounded somewhere blowing the fuse. The 12 volt input to close the internal BCC relay that supplies those outputs comes from the ignition switch when "ON". The 12 volts for those fuses comes from the chassis battery input to the BCC. This may help. Maybe not.
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