Help, No Adjustment for Slide Out?

[Gidyupgo]

Thank you sir. Any trouble getting a 14' tube delivered to the house, or do you have a business?

[Sunseeker16]

I picked it up from a dealer and hauled it on the roof of my car. It comes in a heavy cardboard tube. What did you do to get the extra space you needed to keep from destroying the seal?

[Gidyupgo]

OK, thanks. I've got a small family owned RV place nearby and maybe I can get them to order it for a reasonable cost+.

For the gap: First I opened the slide about a foot. Then I did some differential adjustment to the fwd and aft tilt adjust bolts until the gap was the same top to bottom along the front edge of the slide room. Checked and the gap was good along the back and along the top and bottom edges. Then, closed it to within 3" and checked to see if the top edge of the slide was parallel to the coach. The top front edge was going to contact while the top aft edge was still 2" from contacting. Too much pre-load. So I went the opposite way with the tilt adjusters 1/4 turn at a time and cycled the room out and then 3" from closed until the preload was minimal and there is "some" gap so the seal won't get chewed. (The top edge does make contact before the bottom edge by design from what I read)

Just an observation; Plywood or aluminum shimming under the entire front pad, about 3/16" or 1/4" would raise the front of the slide evenly and probably provide the best alignment / fit.

One other thing. There is a large hex head lag bolt at the fwd edge, top outside corner on the slide that definitely contributes to seal damage. I replaced it with a similar one only phillips with a round head. Countersunk would be even better, but I haven't found one yet

[Sunseeker16]

Originally Posted by Gidyupgo

OK, thanks. I've got a small family owned RV place nearby and maybe I can get them to order it for a reasonable cost+.

For the gap: First I opened the slide about a foot. Then I did some differential adjustment to the fwd and aft tilt adjust bolts until the gap was the same top to bottom along the front edge of the slide room. Checked and the gap was good along the back and along the top and bottom edges. Then, closed it to within 3" and checked to see if the top edge of the slide was parallel to the coach. The top front edge was going to contact while the top aft edge was still 2" from contacting. Too much pre-load. So I went the opposite way with the tilt adjusters 1/4 turn at a time and cycled the room out and then 3" from closed until the preload was minimal and there is "some" gap so the seal won't get chewed. (The top edge does make contact before the bottom edge by design from what I read)

Just an observation; Plywood or aluminum shimming under the entire front pad, about 3/16" or 1/4" would raise the front of the slide evenly and probably provide the best alignment / fit.

One other thing. There is a large hex head lag bolt at the fwd edge, top outside corner on the slide that definitely contributes to seal damage. I replaced it with a similar one only phillips with a round head. Countersunk would be even better, but I haven't found one yet

The hex head bolts on the edges of the slide certainly contribute to the seal damage. I replaced mine as well with a smoother flatter head.

[Gidyupgo]

Updating old thread. Ordered the seal from Three Way Campers here in Georgia and loaded it through the rear emergency window and brought it home in the RV. Remeasured the slide gaps and there has been no change. Now, just need to change the seal.

[Gidyupgo]

Finally got around to installing a 3/8 plywood shim under the front mount pad which opened up a gap at the forward upper corner, to prevent the seal from tearing up again. Then replaced the ~7 foot seal. Also readjusted the tilt on the front and rear slide mount pads per the OEM. Better late than never?