I have the slide outs open. I installed a new o-ring and added a hose clamp to the reservoir. I measured the plastic reservoir and noticed that it is out of round. My thoughts are that the hose clamp will help to bring it into roundness and get a better seal on the o-ring. It worked somewhat. There is still a very little leaking but it does not appear to be from the joint between the reservoir and the block. I see a little fluid at the base of the block. After I had the slide outs open I siphoned most of the hydraulic fluid out of the reservoir and the leaking seems to have stopped. I also noticed the tag on the end of the motor to operate it with a drill. And finally I noticed that one of the hydraulic cylinders has a slow dripping leak. So I'll probably have to replace it sometime.
Thanks for the help in solving my problem.
Congrats on finding and fixing (mostly) your leakage problem! And thank you very much for sharing. We all learn something in threads like this.
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD 4dr short bed Duramax w/allison
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The drill method is only used if the electric motor fails. And as previously stated you have to have a functioning hydraulic system to use the drill method. Removing the hydraulic lines and trying to push the slides is a monumental task. Not to mention extremely messy. Best thing is to fix the leak fill tank and operate normally. Run slides thru a few cycles to bleed all the air from cylinders
May I ask what is a hydrologic pump? Is that a brand name?
Most electric motor operating hydraulic pumps use reversing motors. Hold the toggle switch one way for extension and the other way for retraction.