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Old 12-03-2020, 05:52 PM   #1
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Hydraulics

Has anyone found a good solution for cold weather hydraulics?
Any time it drops below 40's, my hydraulic system shuts off every 5-10.secs.
I replaced regular 10.A fuse with self-resetting circuit breaker to reduce fuse replacement events.
I replaced hydraulic fluid with low viscosity synthetic ATF. I also added anti-stiction additive.
Seems like fluid is too thick for hydraulic pump.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:39 PM   #2
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If you are running ATF the problem is not with the fluid. ATF is low viscosity and is recommended in snowplows. It sounds like a problem in the electric motor driving the pump.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:52 PM   #3
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This is the same motor/pump since day 1 and the issue has been here since the beginning.
Works fine in warmer weather.
Good voltage to motor.
Do they offer motor/pump upgrades?
I have 3 hydraulic slides and 6 leveling jacks.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:54 PM   #4
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I also thought about larger gauge wiring from the batteries (driver side) to the pump (passenger side).
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:09 PM   #5
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The motor side of the power unit can be replaced or rebuilt. Can you see a data tag on the unit?
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:20 PM   #6
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It is cheaper to have them rebuilt, new motors are stupid expensive. Do check and see if you have good voltage to the motor.
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:47 PM   #7
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I have looked at this source (https://www.amazon.com/Products-Comp...ot_top?ie=UTF8.)
Lippert motor is ~$1k.
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:01 PM   #8
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Have the motor tested/rebuilt at a starter repair shop. You might only spend $200. You can also contact Western Motor Sevice in Rockford IL. They offer replacement motors that are much less expensive. There is a great starter repair shop on the west side of South Bend you can use.
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:24 PM   #9
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Surely you miss typed as to your 10 Amp fuse going to the hydraulic pump motor. Many units come with a 40 amp fuse or resettable breaker and Keystone units with hydraulic shut down issues in cold weather have a factory bulletin recommending 80 amp resettable breakers. Hydraulic pump motors in excellent condition pull a boatload of amps. Perhaps your unit has had the wrong amperage fuse (breaker) since day one???
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
Surely you miss typed as to your 10 Amp fuse going to the hydraulic pump motor. Many units come with a 40 amp fuse or resettable breaker and Keystone units with hydraulic shut down issues in cold weather have a factory bulletin recommending 80 amp resettable breakers. Hydraulic pump motors in excellent condition pull a boatload of amps. Perhaps your unit has had the wrong amperage fuse (breaker) since day one???
I glossed over the fact that the OP said it was a 10 amp fuse. I would personally use a 60 amp breaker and go from there. LCI used to recommend 80 amp but was having too many motor failures so they left it up to the coach manufacturer.
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:42 PM   #11
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He may be talking about the 10 amp fuse in the pump harness that goes to the solenoids. To clarify, I'm talking about the large resettable breaker(s) in the wiring that goes to the pump motor. If this breaker is bad (usually located on front storage wall with red plastic cover) it will cause the slides and hydraulic jacks to start and stop especially during cold weather. Just replace the breaker or follow Lippert's bulletin to got to 80 amp (or two 40 amps in parallel)

This is off brand X website, but it may get the OP close to what I'm talking about. Look at photo in 4th reply.
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...table+breakers
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:51 PM   #12
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The unit came with a 15 A fuse in the wiring harness, but I burned out 2 control units.
Then I found the wiring diagram which specifies 10 A.
I put in resetting circuit breaker in place of fuse, and that's what's kicking off and then resetting.
It really seems cold temp related ( no issues with 10A when warm), but I'll get the motor checked out.
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:52 PM   #13
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I'll also see if larger breaker is resetting.
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Old 12-03-2020, 09:32 PM   #14
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Before you go to the trouble of removing the pump motor and getting it checked ... I'd pursue a larger resettable breaker for your pump motor itself as they're not that expensive and easily had off Amazon or some auto parts stores. I realize my replies are just armchair thoughts and they may not be your answer, but I work on RV's on the side and have run into your issue a few times. If you do a search for hydraulic pump stopping during cold weather on FR, Keystone, Heartland, or Jayco owners websites you'll always have a lot of reading on resettable breakers and intermittent cycling. Unless you're nearing zero degrees ... ATF fluid will easily fit the fluid requirements.
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Old 12-03-2020, 10:05 PM   #15
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I was looking at a wiring diagram of the Lippert pump/control panel/solenoid layout. It seems your 10 amp fuse protects the touch pad, controller, hydraulic solenoids, and pressure switch. You might check the ohm reading on all your solenoids to see if they are all about the same. If the 10 amp fuse holder is getting power directly from the large resettable breaker going to your pump ... you might move it to a different nearby 12 VDC power source other than that large breaker. These are a couple of things I would address during troubleshooting.
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Old 12-04-2020, 06:37 PM   #16
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The first picture is in the battery compartment and wired for inverter (residential fridge).
The second picture is in the hydraulic pump compartment. Large gauge red wire on lower right goes to solonoid for pump. Connectef to the same lug is a thin red wire connected to 10A fuse for controller. I can't really see what's behind that copper buss bar with the breakers behind.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-04-2020, 07:38 PM   #17
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Focusing on the right most breaker with the red wires going to the pump trombetta and control/keypad ... Does the large top wire go to the battery? I'd remove the small red wire and hook it to another 12 VDC power source nearby. As I see it ... if the self resetting breaker powering the pump pops ... it also takes the power away from your controller and keypad. Self resetting breakers get weak with multiple resets over time. I'd relocate the small red wire and replace that breaker (probably 40 amp) with the same or perhaps a 60 amp manual reset breaker and see if your issue goes away.

I'd also check your ground wire to the battery(s) making sure it has a good clean connection to the frame.
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Old 12-05-2020, 05:26 PM   #18
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Yes, you are right that top wire is from battery.
I can relocate the thin wire to another place on buss bar. It has its own fuse.
The breaker/ wire to the motor solonoid might be the issue (as you suggest).
I see you can buy either 40 or 50 A resetting breakers. Higher (80A) are manual reset.
I also see suggestions to hook up 2 40A breakers in parallel.
I cam buy copper buss bar extensions to set up 2 breakers in parallel.
FYI, when this started, the fuse for the thin wire was the major problem.
I think that's why the dealer swapped out the 10A fuse for 15A.
Unfortunately, that fried the control board
Thanks for your help. I
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Old 12-06-2020, 03:46 PM   #19
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progress

I relocated the small red wire to another lug on the buss bar.
I also replaced the larger 50A self-resetting circuit breaker with another 50A breaker.
I'll be moving tomorrow, so I'll see how this affects the pump.
Thinking about this more, there are two feeds to the pump solonoid:
1) one set of wires run through the controller for the hydraulic legs and level-up system. this appears to be controlled by the smaller run wire (10A), but is fed by the larger 50A breaker.
2) a second set of wires that control the slides and is controlled by a switch in the control panel inside the RV.
I have the same problem with both circuits, so I am thinking the common thread is the 50A breaker, not the 10A circuit.
I'll follow up tomorrow.
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Old 12-09-2020, 08:12 PM   #20
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Suggestions by Dieselguy have been a big improvement.
Pump hasn't tripped breakers since I replaced 50A breaker and moved the small 10A wire for controller.
Only caveat is that the weather has been warmer, and cold temps was a trigger.
Crossing my fingers that this solves it.
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