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Old 09-28-2020, 01:41 PM   #1
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Is this the design that Forest River thought was best?

Getting ready for a trip so went and got the rig to make sure it is all working well. I have a 2017 Forrest River Coachman Pursuit with Ford chassis. Well the bed room slider does not work. right side or the side to the front of the vehicle will not move, other side moves approx 6 inches and stops.

This is not the first time I've had problems with slider motors on this vehicle, the big slider motor went out while on vacation but was able to get to dealer for warranty repairs.

Back to present issue, going on trip, but one side of bedroom slider not moving. Checked out numerous videos with people trying to fix this issue. The problem is that if the slider is completely closed you can't get to retainer screw on outside of rig. Therefore, the way I understand it is that you can't pop up the motor releasing the slider to move freely. I have swapped the motor plugs on the controller and the same motor does not move, so not a controller issue, can only be wires up to motor or the motor itself.

No way to move slider without disengaging motor, no way to disengage motor without removing inaccessible screw, and no way to get to screw without drilling a hole in the outside panel to access or removing panels. What ever happened to the old "if the slider motor doesn't work, use manual override and crank out/in slider.

This is not a user friendly design, there should be a different way of locking down motor that could be accessed from both sides or there should be a manual override. What if you are out in the middle of no where and have to start tearing out vehicle panels to get to this damn screw. Maybe Forrest River could have put access holes with a plug that would allow you to unscrew the screw.

It is not like it is an unusual occurrence, my rig is a 2017 and it has happened twice and there are no shortages of youtube videos showing how other people have had to tear out a considerable amount of trimming to get to this demon screw.

I have contacted all of the repair shops in my area and there is no one available to get this fixed before I leave, so looks like me and my wife will be sleeping sideways on our bed in this $100,000 screw controlled wonder.

Maybe one of you out there has a fix that doesn't involve removing the outside trim of the slider or boring a hole to get to this screw, if you do please help me.
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Old 09-28-2020, 01:47 PM   #2
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Schwintek slide or another brand?

If Schwintek, have you tried resetting the controller and/or the stops?

Tell us what you have and what you've done.
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Old 09-28-2020, 01:58 PM   #3
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Pretty sure it is a schwintek, can only see a couple of numbers one was serial number and something that I think is model number, 1510000__7, two numbers are rubbed out. Tracks are a nylon belt device. I have swapped the controller with the other slider and it worked, I swapped motor one connection with motor 2 connection on the controller (problem stayed on the same side), I removed the plastic cap on top of motor and checked connections (seemed ok, not great access with slider on one side and cupboard on other, I pushed like hell to see if I could get enough room to access screw on outside (no movement at all), I tried to reprogram, but right motor doesn't respond at all, left motor moves about 6" and stops because the slider is cocked.

I do appreciate your quick response.
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Old 09-28-2020, 02:29 PM   #4
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From the internet:


https://blog.campingworld.com/rv-bas...ng-you-can-do/


Additional Things to Try

there are some physical things you can do to the slide-out and control box. First, you can move the slides manually. Ian doesn’t touch on this in the video, and if you’re doing this, you really need to get your RV to a service center ASAP. Or disconnect all power from battery and land line and have an electrical 'dead' unit.

In order to do this, you’ll need to disconnect the cables for the slide from the control box. This will disengage the brake or lock and allow you to move the slide by simply pushing on it. Make sure to push the slide in evenly. From there, you’ll need to reconnect the wires for the motors to the control box so the brake or lock reengages.
If that still doesn’t work, and you have a slide stuck out, then you need to take the screws off on the exterior of the RV at the top of the slide. From there, you have access to the motors for the slide. You should be able to move them up about half of an inch, which will disconnect them. Then you should be able to push the slide in. Replace those screws, and then either use a slide lock or a wooden 24 cut to the right length on the inside of the RV to make sure the slide doesn’t slide back out.
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Old 09-28-2020, 03:34 PM   #5
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Talked to Tim Buss at Coachman tech service. What a pleasant guy to talk to. He explained that now the motor is held by a spring on the side, unlike all the youtube videos that showed the screw. Just had to pop the spring, but it did take some considerable effort to get the motor out, but with some banging, as Tim explained, it popped right out.
Sorry about all of the whining and fussing about the design, seems it has been improved, still hard to get to with slider in, but not impossible.
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Old 09-28-2020, 03:44 PM   #6
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Brother Les, thank you for the link and the quick response. Couldn't just sync motors, because the right one was not working at all. But was able with help from Tim Buss from Coachman, to get the motor out. Now just need to get replacement motor and install.
Thank you
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Old 09-29-2020, 12:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonOcchiline View Post
Talked to Tim Buss at Coachman tech service. What a pleasant guy to talk to. He explained that now the motor is held by a spring on the side, unlike all the youtube videos that showed the screw. Just had to pop the spring, but it did take some considerable effort to get the motor out, but with some banging, as Tim explained, it popped right out.
Sorry about all of the whining and fussing about the design, seems it has been improved, still hard to get to with slider in, but not impossible.
No worries on the whining. It's really just complaining, and deserved. If the manufacturers provided decent information on these things when you buy them you would never have had to go to such trouble. The instruction manuals that came with my trailer are a joke. Good luck.
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Old 09-29-2020, 05:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonOcchiline View Post
Talked to Tim Buss at Coachman tech service. What a pleasant guy to talk to. He explained that now the motor is held by a spring on the side, unlike all the youtube videos that showed the screw. Just had to pop the spring, but it did take some considerable effort to get the motor out, but with some banging, as Tim explained, it popped right out.
Sorry about all of the whining and fussing about the design, seems it has been improved, still hard to get to with slider in, but not impossible.
The spring was replaced by the screw in the last few years.

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Old 09-29-2020, 07:37 PM   #9
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Yes let's hear for a better manuals. It is a joke when I bought mine.
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:57 PM   #10
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Yes let's hear for a better manuals. It is a joke when I bought mine.
You'll need to get the entire RV Industry on board since generic owners manuals are the industry standard.
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Old 09-29-2020, 09:58 PM   #11
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Apparently no two RVs are built the same. I've been involved with Prevost coach service and had manuals with differing wiring in the coach build. Prevost chassis wiring has accurate diagrams.
I quite agree that better manuals would be useful. Particularly for those of us with even a modicum of mechanical skills.
Shwintek is an interesting bit of engineering....I'll leave it at that.
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:09 PM   #12
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You'll need to get the entire RV Industry on board since generic owners manuals are the industry standard.
I worked on a class B over the weekend. It had a complete and accurate manual, mechanical and electrical. What a dream.
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:13 PM   #13
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I worked on a class B over the weekend. It had a complete and accurate manual, mechanical and electrical. What a dream.
Brand?
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:17 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DonOcchiline View Post
Pretty sure it is a schwintek, can only see a couple of numbers one was serial number and something that I think is model number, 1510000__7, two numbers are rubbed out. Tracks are a nylon belt device.
Schwintek uses a metal track screwed solidly to the side of the slide. You have a Power Gear SlimRack because you have the non-metal rack (not track) and it's a rack and pinion design. The rack floats, right? That is a major tell-tale as to which system you have.

Assuming you have a SlimRack, which is a far better system than a Schwintek, I've attached some PDFs you may find of interest. They do detail the manual movement procedure. The training PDF also shows the two motor hold-down types. You have the older type because you have the spring.

But yeah, manual extension and retraction is not an easy task. I hope to never have that particular problem.

Ray
Attached Files
File Type: pdf PowerGearSlimRackOwnersManual.pdf (281.0 KB, 51 views)
File Type: pdf PowerGearTechnicalTraining.pdf (3.44 MB, 39 views)
File Type: pdf SlimRack Slide-Out OEM Installation Manual.pdf (4.24 MB, 44 views)
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:52 PM   #15
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Brand?
I'll have to check, it went so smooth I didn't pay any attention. I was called to troubleshoot and check out. I'll give the mechanic a call tomorrow.
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Old 09-30-2020, 05:07 PM   #16
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Brand?
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Old 09-30-2020, 07:35 PM   #17
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2002 Roadtrek 190
That's nearly 20 years ago when things were different and Roadtrek was a boutique RV manufacturer.
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Old 09-30-2020, 09:13 PM   #18
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That's nearly 20 years ago when things were different and Roadtrek was a boutique RV manufacturer.
I owned a 2000 Trail-Lite it's documentation was about the same as my 2018. I don't anything about Roadtrek, but it did have nice docs.
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Old 10-05-2020, 07:33 PM   #19
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I recently posted a review of the Schwintec slide system, and everything seems to be right on. This is a system that is complicated, and you need to find the controller somewhere in your RV to get you in. There is no manual back up ( like crank it in] and these motors go kaput regularly. Mine the wiring was also bad. New controller, new motor, and both new wiring harnesses later, it still stopped midstream .everything is about timing. If not it goes sideways and your toast. Many manufactures use it , and it is a bad system, folks ! No ?
I would love to hear from the people that have had a Schwintec system for five years or more, used it regularly, and never had a problem. I finally sold my unit and got a manual system with a crank out backup. Best move I ever made. Bye bye Schwintec for good.
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Old 10-05-2020, 07:57 PM   #20
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I recently posted a review of the Schwintec slide system, and everything seems to be right on. This is a system that is complicated, and you need to find the controller somewhere in your RV to get you in. There is no manual back up ( like crank it in] and these motors go kaput regularly. Mine the wiring was also bad. New controller, new motor, and both new wiring harnesses later, it still stopped midstream .everything is about timing. If not it goes sideways and your toast. Many manufactures use it , and it is a bad system, folks ! No ?
I would love to hear from the people that have had a Schwintec system for five years or more, used it regularly, and never had a problem. I finally sold my unit and got a manual system with a crank out backup. Best move I ever made. Bye bye Schwintec for good.
I've had mine for almost 5 years and(knock on wood)haven't had any Schwintek-related issues.

PrimeTime designers were responsible for the only issue I had with the slideout. They put both the fuse/breaker panel and the controller along the wall that gets covered up when the slide is in. While working on the antenna booster I blew a fuse that also powered the slideout motors. Couldn't disconnect the motors to push it out because the slideout was in.
So I couldn't get to the fuse to replace it nor the controller.
Finally was able to contort myself and with 90 needle nose pliers, reach the blown fuse and replace it. Ended up replacing all the fuses with resettable blade fuses. Now if it happens again, I can reach in with the pliers and push the button.
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