Schwintek lower rail separating from slide out

[PhixItPhil]

Hi All!

We purchased our first RV, a 2012 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2703SS, a couple of months ago and have been enjoying outfitting, modifying, camping, and relaxing (even when it is parked in our driveway) in it ever since. We can get used to this lifestyle of Adventure! But I digress...

While on our trip last month, I noticed that the lower front rail on the 11' galley/couch slide has come loose from the slide out wall. This is a Schwintek mechanism. I searched all of the posts for this problem in this forum and across the internet without success so I am starting a new thread. Maybe I need better keywords. If this issue has been discussed and solved, please direct me there.

The problem: all of the mounting screws along the rail have stripped and the rail has separated from the wall. See attached photos: first is slide pushing out, second is slide pulling in. When moving the slide out, the end of the rail bumps up against outside slide flange and pushes out normally. When moving in, the end of the rail separates from the flange by 1/4"+ until the stripped screws angle enough to hold the slide before it starts pulling in. This lower rail has mounting screws only on the upper side of the rail. The lower side angles 90deg under the bottom side of the slide with no fasteners. For comparison, the top rail rests flush against the slide wall and has screws on the top and bottom of the rail--twice as many fasteners. The lower rear rail is okay for now but already has one stripped screw possibly done at factory installation and maybe indicative of its future failure.

I surmise that there is not enough fastening strength in the slide wall. Does anyone know if there is any metal framing at the lower corners of the slide that the screws should bite into? Other possibilities are that this is the heavier side of the slide with the stove, fridge, and cabinets and is too much load for the screws used, the slide may have jammed momentarily thus stressing the fastening, or maybe some or all of the screws were stripped at the factory. Regardless, I'd like to repair this myself. However, I do not know the construction of slide corners to know what alternate fasteners to use--longer screws, small lag bolts, screws on the bottom side, or something else. If I need to take it into a shop, I'd like to understand the slide construction so that I know that they made an appropriate repair.

This should not have happened this soon, if at all. The rig has only been on four trips in its life with very few slide out cycles. I will be contacting Lippert and Forest River on Monday to get their advice on this. Any information that any of you can suggest would be greatly appreciated.

I realize this is a lengthy post. I wanted to provide as much information as possible. Thanks for your patience. Phil

[Witch Doctor]

Looks like you said the screws striped out, probably from the weight. What is on the other side inside? One sure way would be to through bolt it in the 2" wall. By the thickness of the rail you might be able to nut it on the outside. So you would only end up with a washer and nut head inside. Being low enough you could try and match the wall paper with paint and paint the inside head of the bolt. I had an awning arm come loose on a Jayco and that is what I had to do. There was a chair next to it so you really never saw it. I would have had to point it out to you. You can also just add more screws to the top rail but you will still have the same problem. It looks like it mounted to high to hit the bottom metal frame. If it is hidden pretty good I would run a 1" flat bar going across the length and then drill your bolt holes. Then paint that to help mask it.

[youroo]

Are you the 1st Owner of this unit? If sold to you as NEW and you have only had it 2 months you should be under the Fac Warr! It also sounds like some Fasteners were left out of the (Lower rail on 1 side) if the Other side rail utilized All the (Rail Holes)! If (New) the slide wall will need replaced under Fac Warr! If (Used) you can replace slide wall OR think about a (Repair) like Glen Posted above! Youroo!!

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by youroo

Are you the 1st Owner of this unit? If sold to you as NEW and you have only had it 2 months you should be under the Fac Warr! It also sounds like some Fasteners were left out of the (Lower rail on 1 side) if the Other side rail utilized All the (Rail Holes)! If (New) the slide wall will need replaced under Fac Warr! If (Used) you can replace slide wall OR think about a (Repair) like Glen Posted above! Youroo!!

It's new to them Youroo, but it's a 2012 unit, I guess it could have sat on a dealers lot that long, but doubt it. I really do not like that slide system. My brother-in-law bought a Lance and his system broke on his second trip. I think that is the only system Lances use. They had to replace the motor on his. I don't think they can hold the weight. Also looks like they notched the corner ....

[youroo]

I agree on the (Light Duty) of these (Sweezy Swazzy Slide Systems)! Youroo!!

[B and B]

My 2012 Rockwood had the same thing, they used flathead screws where filister or pan head should have been used. The first trip out the slide failed and the dealer repaired it. They used pop rivets in the same oversized holes. They will never move after this. I read another thread were Forest River removed a scwhintek and used a conventional slide on a bedroom, might be the Schwintek is being targeted for replacement.

[PhixItPhil]

Thank you all for the suggestions and information.

@gljurczyk (it looks like your name is Glen according to @Youroo's post), The oven and wood-covered space is just above this lower front corner of the slide so there is no exposed interior wall. See photo. I removed the "baseboard" on this part of the slide. There is metal framing behind it so no exposure to inside for fastening. The metal framing that the rail was screwed into is thin so I'm not surprised the screws tore out with this amount of weight on this end of the slide. I don't think I'll be able to get access to the interior side as it looks like the rail screws are below the upper level of the slide flooring.

@Youroo, to confirm, we are the second owners. We purchased from a private party, so no warranty coverage.

@B and B, the pop-rivet fix may be the trick since I have no interior access. I just hope that the metal wall frame is heavy enough for the rivets to hold.

I spoke with both FR and Lippert service support. They claim that there should be wood reinforcement inside of the slide metal frame where the screws fasten. I can't see into the frame to confirm. So, somehow the fastener method failed and I need to reattach the rail more securely. Regardless the fastening solution, I need to get the rail and wall flush again before fastening. Right now, the slide width is shorter than the rail width by nearly a 1/2". So maybe the lower rear gear/rail has been pushed back or the lower front pushed forward. I'm not sure if I'll need to lift the slide slightly, with proper support, to shift it forward to get everything aligned again. Any ideas on how to accomplish this?

I'm not sure whether additional photos help. I've added a few here. One showing the lack of inside access, one is an interior view of the separated rail, and one of the underside of the slide.

[hammer55]

looks as if the rail has come back from the wall about 1/2 ln., I would see about getting it back in place and then drilling new holes then either use rivits or screw it back in place,, they also have those wall hog screws

[B and B]

PHIXITPHIL. The slide on my 2703 was fully supported , levelled (trailer first) then they retrofitted the schwintek. The lower tracks were in Aluminum for sure, I can not speak to the upper tracks. Once the pop rivets where installed (they used 3/16 aluminum i believe, larger than the number 8 screws for sure )it was solid as a rock. At my request they added 3 more rollers underneath to support the slide load. I agree inside access, i know first hand! First trip out muscling the slide back in to undo the motors. PIA!


The remaining issue and reason for the trade to the fiver in our case was the slide was just too big and too much weight with the kitchen. The motors could not move it. I had to either push inside to get it out safely or push in from outside. Without the motors the slide worked very easily and moved fine. Trailer had to be dead level to work.

Hopefully you can get the track fixed up.

Brian

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by PhixItPhil

Thank you all for the suggestions and information.

@gljurczyk (it looks like your name is Glen according to @Youroo's post), The oven and wood-covered space is just above this lower front corner of the slide so there is no exposed interior wall. See photo. I removed the "baseboard" on this part of the slide. There is metal framing behind it so no exposure to inside for fastening. The metal framing that the rail was screwed into is thin so I'm not surprised the screws tore out with this amount of weight on this end of the slide. I don't think I'll be able to get access to the interior side as it looks like the rail screws are below the upper level of the slide flooring.

@Youroo, to confirm, we are the second owners. We purchased from a private party, so no warranty coverage.

@B and B, the pop-rivet fix may be the trick since I have no interior access. I just hope that the metal wall frame is heavy enough for the rivets to hold.

I spoke with both FR and Lippert service support. They claim that there should be wood reinforcement inside of the slide metal frame where the screws fasten. I can't see into the frame to confirm. So, somehow the fastener method failed and I need to reattach the rail more securely. Regardless the fastening solution, I need to get the rail and wall flush again before fastening. Right now, the slide width is shorter than the rail width by nearly a 1/2". So maybe the lower rear gear/rail has been pushed back or the lower front pushed forward. I'm not sure if I'll need to lift the slide slightly, with proper support, to shift it forward to get everything aligned again. Any ideas on how to accomplish this?

I'm not sure whether additional photos help. I've added a few here. One showing the lack of inside access, one is an interior view of the separated rail, and one of the underside of the slide.

It looks from the angle of the screws and that gap at the outside wall it moved forward. How long are the screws that they used? I would try and take them out and move the tract back. Get some over size screws to take the place of them that are there now and add 3 more. In the new pictures that metal looks like almost alum flashing. Also it looks like they are screwed into the side of the plywood, which would be the weakest point to drive and hold screws tight. If you replace and add some new ones I would also use a wood epoxy, that you could put it on the threads and hope it will give you some extra holding power. I would also drive 4" long wood screws like decking screws. If you need to jack that slide up. Make sure to have a 2x12 across the bottom and jack from the middle up. I saw them pick one up like that, 1/2" would be the highest to pick it up if you have to. You might have to pull that motor before you try and move that rail back. You don't want to jack it up if you don't have to. Good luck Phil, let us know what you find and decide to do

[OldCoot]

If it is all covered by the couch or with carpeting, you might want to move the couch, pull the carpet, move the track back in place and drill completely thru the floor and use stainless steel screws and nuts with the nuts on the outside and then cut the screws off so they don't protrude beyond the nut. Locktite them also.

[Crockett]

I use a moly or split rivit at times. its long and has slits. I believe auveco is the mfg but I could not find a listing online. Ill post up later at work.

[silver]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

If it is all covered by the couch or with carpeting, you might want to move the couch, pull the carpet, move the track back in place and drill completely thru the floor and use stainless steel screws and nuts with the nuts on the outside and then cut the screws off so they don't protrude beyond the nut. Locktite them also.

rather than locktite use lock nuts.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by silver

rather than locktite use lock nuts.

They are usually thicker.

[B and B]

To add. The screws they used are wood screws. The OP has the same issue I had with mine. Pop Rivets and never look back. As OC said you can also drive through to the cabinet and install some longer Stainless screws as well, lots of room under there,

[Crockett]

http://auveco.com/eSource/ecom/commo...sc/pdf/248.pdf

I use the 13766 quite a bit...