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Old 07-12-2021, 11:25 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
1. In-wall slides (Schwintec & Power Gear) are substantially lighter than traditional below floor slides allowing for more CCC.

2. Below floor slides (as mentioned earlier) dip down into the frame/storage area. We recently converted from a "below floor" slide to an "in wall" and all the cargo boxes got 6-8" taller in that area.

3. In-wall slides draw the slide in at (4) points (top/bottom, right/left). A below floor slide, only draws in from the bottom. So a below floor slide really needs to be build "out of alignment" so that the top hits first and then the bottom pulls in to make sure you get a tight seal all the way around. This is more of an art than a science. The in-wall versions allow you to build the slide room normally and should get pretty even seal throughout as you have more equal distribution of pressure.

4. For people that know what they are doing, the repair is simpler and more cost effective.
Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for.

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Old 07-12-2021, 12:01 PM   #22
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What About a 2011 Sunseeker Class C?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
1. In-wall slides (Schwintec & Power Gear) are substantially lighter than traditional below floor slides allowing for more CCC.

2. Below floor slides (as mentioned earlier) dip down into the frame/storage area. We recently converted from a "below floor" slide to an "in wall" and all the cargo boxes got 6-8" taller in that area.

3. In-wall slides draw the slide in at (4) points (top/bottom, right/left). A below floor slide, only draws in from the bottom. So a below floor slide really needs to be build "out of alignment" so that the top hits first and then the bottom pulls in to make sure you get a tight seal all the way around. This is more of an art than a science. The in-wall versions allow you to build the slide room normally and should get pretty even seal throughout as you have more equal distribution of pressure.

4. For people that know what they are doing, the repair is simpler and more cost effective.
So I am confused about this in-wall and below floor designs. My Sunseeker seems to have a below floor design which does act like it's built "out of alignment". But I don't see that it "dips down into the frame/storage area.

bclemens can you clear my up?
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Old 07-12-2021, 12:25 PM   #23
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So I am confused about this in-wall and below floor designs. My Sunseeker seems to have a below floor design which does act like it's built "out of alignment". But I don't see that it "dips down into the frame/storage area.

bclemens can you clear my up?
Your "below floor" is not really below floor. It is mounted on top of the floor which will raise up the slide room floor. No option for a flush floor slide on those.
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Old 07-12-2021, 04:10 PM   #24
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Thumbs up Zero issues

We are in our 5th season, 229 days, 20,487 miles and never a problem with my dinette schwintek slide. It extends 36 inches. There was one time when I thought is was crapping out. 3 years ago, I had left a cabinet door open which stopped one side. Even that did not damage it. It took 3 cycles to get both side synchronized but it still works like a champ.
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Old 07-12-2021, 06:58 PM   #25
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I have my fingers crossed that ours will be trouble free. I do only run it all the way in or out, no partial deployment. And I hold the button another 3-5 seconds after the movement stops.
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:12 PM   #26
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I too became an expert a pulling slide motors after numerous issues with our 2650S CDW Sunseeker. But once I figured out the loose wire problem, our slide has been reliable. I hold the button and don't partially retract the slide. We choose this model as the slide in or out is not critical to the RVs use as I recognize the vulnerability of slides. It's a trade off: the extra room a slide provides, or the potential headaches. Your choice.
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Old 07-15-2021, 06:46 PM   #27
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I've owned a MH for over 3 years now with Schwintec slide systems (4) and had one failure. The key is keeping the slide consistently going out or in and allow an extra 3-5 seconds on your button once the unit is out or in to keep motors in sync.

Another tip I'll add, whenever possible, is to put your slides out on shore power or with your generator on. Coach battery only is last resort.
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Old 07-15-2021, 07:01 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
Thank you. This is the type of information that I’m looking for.

Bruce



Whoo..Wait a minute . What you got was an opinion stated as fact. My experience with my schwintek slide-out has been flawless. My Rockwood has a slide that is 95 inches wide and extends 36 inches. It supports two recliners and a cabinet overhead full of dishes and a large cabinet that sits on the floor on one end and with the pots and pans I'm guessing it weighs 40-50 pounds. I've been using it for 6 years. As for synchronizing the motors: I watch each end of the slide going out and in and if they don't reach the end of travel together, I'd hold the power switch until the slower end reached it's full travel BUT, in my 6 years I've never had to sync the ends. About a year ago I started hearing a squeak. I watched a youtube video produced by schwintek on lubricating the shafts/gears. They recommended a spray with teflon in it. It worked.
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Old 07-15-2021, 07:21 PM   #29
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Over the last 15 years, I've owner 4 RV's, with a total 8 slide-out.
Never had any issues, or problems with the first 3 RV's slide-outs. A Monaco, an Open Range, and Forest River Work and Play toyhauler. Never a slide-out problem. Then 18 months ago we bought a 2020 Entegra Odyssey 24B class C made by Jayco. (Got a good price, $74,995 and they gave me a $35,000 trade-in on my 2011 F250)
We've had the Schwintec slide-out fail 3 times in the first year. One of the motors failed. The other times the slide would just start going out crooked.
The front end of the slide would go out about six inches before the rear would start going out, I'd run it in and out, and retry, just to have it bind up and stop again.
One of the first things we did is have a Bigfoot leveling jack system installed on the RV. Making sure the RV is really level before operating the slide. Added a second coach battery.
Only operate the slide with the generator and converter on, or on 30 amp service with the converter on.
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Old 07-15-2021, 07:47 PM   #30
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Three years using one on my MiniLite and no issues. The Schwintek In-wall slide system is said to be lighter and less expensive. It doesn't require a hole in the frame for a power ram. But from what I read they are intended for small slides. Some say many problems arise when manufacturers use them on slides that are too big. Makes for an unhappy camper.

The other thing is when things just work, people aren't inclined to post about a system. But when it fails they either want help or want to vent.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
Ever since the introduction of the Schwintek slide system, I have read of problem after problem with them on every RV forum I frequent. I have never read where people are singing their praises or are looking for RVs that only have them.

I have never had a Schwintek slide, and have never had a slide problem, so when the time comes that I am in the market for a new RV, I will be trying my best to avoid any RV that uses the Schwintek slide system.

My question is; what advantages, if any, do Schwintek slides have over other traditional systems? From my standpoint of never owning one and only reading about the problems so many people have with them, I can’t think of any advantages. What is it that I don’t know about Schwintek slide systems that make them necessary?

Bruce
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Old 07-16-2021, 02:31 AM   #31
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I don't have them on my 2020 5vr.
To me logically if a slide out running on a small track that they use, would indicate future problems.

Too much room for error.
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Old 07-16-2021, 02:39 AM   #32
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I am an RV dealer and purchase at least one RV used per month so let me tell you about it. To understand Why you want schwintek system why it is great you need to imagine that your RV is a long cardboard Box. Now Imagine that you cut a big long hole down each side. Now your box is very twisty. The slide fills a giant hole in your RV. The hydraulic systems slide only support the underside of the slide while the top can be loose and flap over bumps against the side of the RV. Also Hydraulic slide system require very heavy components that ad weight to your RV and reduce cargo capacity. Slideout first became common in 2001 as chassis design improved. Now the RV manufactures needed a design that supports and holds the Slide tight against the RV both at the top and bottom of the sidewall for stiffening of the box with lighter weight components. The Schwintek design fit that requirement so well that they are the most common design in Full-wall long slideouts in Motorhomes including gas and diesel in the various manufactures. When RV manufactures started building Motorhomes like Thor Brand and Forrest River and others with long full body length slides the schwintek system is what they use. There are 2 motor versions the low torque and high torque versions. Small slideouts do fine with the low torque motors. But the bigger slides require the high torque motors.
Problems happen not because of the schwintek system as it is great but rather because of use and envroment issues. On In-wall slide systems the slide floor never touches the RVs floor so is not supported by anything other than some rollers along the wall edge. On a 32" deep slide you have a lot of torque stress on the equipment if you overload it.

If you have a deep and large slideout the entire weight of your sofa and dinette are supported by the wall. If you have excessive number of heavy people jumping up and down on your dinette while driving on bumpy road that puts a lot of torque on the wall mounted schwintek mechanics and can cause failures. Usually only 2 on the dinette and 3 on the sofa is OK but if you stuff 10 people in your RV you can expect problems.
schwintek has evolved over the years and they tried using it in Full-wall slideout starting in 2013 but learned that they needed a 3rd track. Now they call the the 3-traxx system. 2 track at the top and one at the bottom to support longer slideouts.
now in 2018 you start seeing the newer system called Slim-rack. The Slim Rack is a newer improved version of the schwintek style system.
To avoid issues with these designs take the following steps. Keep the tracks lubed with Silicone spray lube. Don't retract the slides if you have Ice, Snow, Sand, or Dirt in the tracks. SO winter campers and dusty campers need to be careful not to grind ice or dirt into the tracks.




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Old 07-16-2021, 05:09 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikedj1 View Post
I am an RV dealer and purchase at least one RV used per month so let me tell you about it. To understand Why you want schwintek system why it is great you need to imagine that your RV is a long cardboard Box. Now Imagine that you cut a big long hole down each side. Now your box is very twisty. The slide fills a giant hole in your RV. The hydraulic systems slide only support the underside of the slide while the top can be loose and flap over bumps against the side of the RV. Also Hydraulic slide system require very heavy components that ad weight to your RV and reduce cargo capacity. Slideout first became common in 2001 as chassis design improved. Now the RV manufactures needed a design that supports and holds the Slide tight against the RV both at the top and bottom of the sidewall for stiffening of the box with lighter weight components. The Schwintek design fit that requirement so well that they are the most common design in Full-wall long slideouts in Motorhomes including gas and diesel in the various manufactures. When RV manufactures started building Motorhomes like Thor Brand and Forrest River and others with long full body length slides the schwintek system is what they use. There are 2 motor versions the low torque and high torque versions. Small slideouts do fine with the low torque motors. But the bigger slides require the high torque motors.
Problems happen not because of the schwintek system as it is great but rather because of use and envroment issues. On In-wall slide systems the slide floor never touches the RVs floor so is not supported by anything other than some rollers along the wall edge. On a 32" deep slide you have a lot of torque stress on the equipment if you overload it.

If you have a deep and large slideout the entire weight of your sofa and dinette are supported by the wall. If you have excessive number of heavy people jumping up and down on your dinette while driving on bumpy road that puts a lot of torque on the wall mounted schwintek mechanics and can cause failures. Usually only 2 on the dinette and 3 on the sofa is OK but if you stuff 10 people in your RV you can expect problems.
schwintek has evolved over the years and they tried using it in Full-wall slideout starting in 2013 but learned that they needed a 3rd track. Now they call the the 3-traxx system. 2 track at the top and one at the bottom to support longer slideouts.
now in 2018 you start seeing the newer system called Slim-rack. The Slim Rack is a newer improved version of the schwintek style system.
To avoid issues with these designs take the following steps. Keep the tracks lubed with Silicone spray lube. Don't retract the slides if you have Ice, Snow, Sand, or Dirt in the tracks. SO winter campers and dusty campers need to be careful not to grind ice or dirt into the tracks.




I just have a question about lubrication of slides. My rv owners manual and lippert's manuals do not call for any lubrication of slide mechanisms. I don't agree with this but why are they saying that no lubrication is required? Sorry to have quoted your whole post but haven't figured out how to quote only a part of it.
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Old 07-16-2021, 06:20 AM   #34
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Just picked up on this thread. I have a 2018 Forester with a dinette slide only. After reading these posts I haven't seen mention of a potential problem I may be experiencing. Before we travel I make sure the slide is all the way in then, after some time driving, I found that if I press the "-" on the LCD panel the slide will seem to want to come in slightly.
Perhaps, if this is the wrong thread, someone can point me in the right direction for this situation.
Many thanks, a lot of good info here.
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Old 07-16-2021, 06:41 AM   #35
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Where can I find the videos showing how to use the controller?

Where can i find the videos on operating the controller manually?




Quote:
Originally Posted by tarvidson View Post
i have repaired one motor on a schwintek so got quite familiar with tearing them out and putting in a new motor. Actually i was able to solder the wires back on and save the old motor. I have the new one which has a much nicer protection for the wires than the old one. I keep the new one for a spare. Several other people have had the same problem that i have found on the forums. Schwintek could have made it much easier to work on the motors if they had not made it so you have to undo the bracket that holds the motor in place from the outside and pull the motor from the inside. The new motor should eliminate the wiring problem but it is a pita to slide into place with its new thick rubber cover. Schwintek has helpful videos but make it look way easier than it is to replace a motor and don't explain that the 4 little bolts on the bottom of the motor have to be forced down into some holes that you can't see in order to keep the motor from spinning instead of moving the slide. I could now change a motor in about a half hour. The first couple times i missed a few things. Their controller is really good, you can free up the slide so you can push it by hand. I did most of it by myself but a helper to physically muscle the slide in and out would be handy. If you see one side of your slide not moving stop quickly and if you have a helper have them pull or push the slide to match the speed on the side that is working and you can get it closed or open. If the motor jams up or quits you will need to learn to reset the controller. See the videos and good luck.
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Old 07-16-2021, 08:44 AM   #36
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This is certainly a guess, our previous rig had two slides, a PowerGear for the living room slide, a Schwintek for a bedroom wardrobe slide. The living room extended 42” the wardrobe slide about 18”.

I still frequent that brand forum and don’t hear many Schwintek problems. Before Irving one I read about issues but learned the importance of not partially extending/retracting a Schwintek slide which gets the two motors out of sync. It’s best to extend/retract them fully and keep the button depressed for a few seconds when moving it in each direction which keeps the motors in sync. I followed their lube recommendations as well and never had an issue in 4 years of owning one.
I have the Schwinteck slide for over 8 years and never had an issue. Maybe should do the lube recommendations as only done that once, and haphazzardly.
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Old 07-16-2021, 09:07 AM   #37
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Anyone I know personally that has had a schwintek system in a larger slide has had multiple problems. Every single one of them. But the same system in smaller slides seems to work very well.
One of the line items on my list of unaccaptable features while shopping for a new RV is a schwintek system on a larger slide. Definitely a show stopper.
Unfortunately, it is hard to find an RV without the system on a small slide, but hopefully the past will repeat itself and it will function correctly.
I am hoping they will continue to improve that type of system, or come up with one that just works on all slides and without having to hold buttons longer and always having to fully extend/retract nonsense.
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Old 07-16-2021, 09:22 AM   #38
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Wouldn't it be just wonderfully awesome if every man made system functioned flawlessly 110% of the time!

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Old 07-16-2021, 09:41 AM   #39
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Wouldn't it be just wonderfully awesome if every man made system functioned flawlessly 110% of the time!

I for one would be perfectly happy with 100%. I'd be happy even with less than that, but perfectly happy with 100.
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Old 07-16-2021, 11:16 AM   #40
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I think that a majority of schwintek issues arent so much about the product itself but rather its installation.
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