Slide banged and skipped teeth

canterburyshoe · 08-20-2017, 07:04 PM

I have a Rockwood 8289WS. on our trip up to the Watertown NY area we stopped halfway for the night. In the morning went to close the slides and all was well until I started to put in the big slide and it got about half in and heard a very loud bang, like a gun. Tried to put the slide out and it sounded like it was about to die. Not sure what happened so I checked to make sure I didn't hook the water hose or power cord, nope. Come to find out we had left the dogs water dish down and it got between the island and the cabinet under the fridge. I got the slide closed with a lot of banging and pushing on the front side. When we got to our final destination I was able to get slide open with more banging and a little pushing.
Long story short, I found that the slide had jumped teeth on the gear pack. Where the slide rail comes out was bowed on the top which allowed the rail to ride up and over the teeth. I looked at my friends camper which is just the Flagstaff version and one year newer. On the top of the rail where the slide comes out had a 1/4" piece of steel welded to the top to reinforce this area. When I got home this week I was able to flatten that area out and weld a plate on top. Problem solved. So this must have been a known problem since Flagstaff had reinforced this area. Just an FYI for people. Included are before and after pictures.

ChibullsAN · 08-21-2017, 08:25 PM

Thanks. This could be really helpful if an issue arises and someone needs to get a slide closed or open at a bad time.

canterburyshoe · 08-22-2017, 05:03 AM

Lippert has what they call a field fix, Lip sheet 0065. Sorry I don't know how to post the shortcut to the sheet. Where you put a washer under the wear tab. I tried this and it just bowed the top even more.

youroo · 08-22-2017, 05:15 AM

canterburyshoe,can you Post Pics of the "Dog Dish"?

Youroo!!

canterburyshoe · 08-22-2017, 07:13 AM

Not even a scratch on the dish. We buy nothing but the best.

**Bama Rambler** · 08-22-2017, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canterburyshoe

Lippert has what they call a field fix, Lip sheet 0065. Sorry I don't know how to post the shortcut to the sheet. Where you put a washer under the wear tab. I tried this and it just bowed the top even more.

Here's a link to sheet 0065. I can see where that 'fix' would just bend the top of the tube even more.

rockfordroo · 08-22-2017, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Here's a link to sheet 0065. I can see where that 'fix' would just bend the top of the tube even more.

I think you're limited on how much the tube top can bend, at least without pulling in the sides, which I suppose would cause a whole other problem.

I think that's why this is called a "field fix." Something most anyone could do at the CG if necessary.

Canterburyshoe: It appears that you removed the "wear tab" in order to weld on your reinforcing steel. Looking at the figures in the field fix sheet, it appears that the wear tab has a "head" that fills a space between the top of the inner tube and the bottom of the outer tube. If you simply removed that wear tab, straightened the top of the out tube and welded on your reinforcing steel, it would seem to me that you've now left a "gap" equal to the thickness of the wear tabs head. If this is true, then it sounds like you've still got a gap "similar" to the gap you had with the crowned out tube.

In other words, you may still have trouble with skipping teeth. See attached sketch for what I mean.

But if you drilled a hole in your reinforcing steel and kept the tab, I think you'll be OK.

DouglasReid · 08-22-2017, 02:53 PM

Good fix, Thanks for sharing! Always storing little ideas in the grey matter for when I screw up!

canterburyshoe · 08-22-2017, 05:39 PM

Qoute I think that's why this is called a "field fix." Something most anyone could do at the CG if necessary.
Canterburyshoe: It appears that you removed the "wear tab" in order to weld on your reinforcing steel. Looking at the figures in the field fix sheet, it appears that the wear tab has a "head" that fills a space between the top of the inner tube and the bottom of the outer tube. If you simply removed that wear tab, straightened the top of the out tube and welded on your reinforcing steel, it would seem to me that you've now left a "gap" equal to the thickness of the wear tabs head. If this is true, then it sounds like you've still got a gap "similar" to the gap you had with the crowned out tube.
In other words, you may still have trouble with skipping teeth. See attached sketch for what I mean.
But if you drilled a hole in your reinforcing steel and kept the tab, I think you'll be OK.[/QUOTE]

Wear tabs are still there. I did drill a hole. Can't see it in the pics. The gap you see there now is just the thickness of the wear tab.

rockfordroo · 08-22-2017, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canterburyshoe

Qoute I think that's why this is called a "field fix." Something most anyone could do at the CG if necessary.
Canterburyshoe: It appears that you removed the "wear tab" in order to weld on your reinforcing steel. Looking at the figures in the field fix sheet, it appears that the wear tab has a "head" that fills a space between the top of the inner tube and the bottom of the outer tube. If you simply removed that wear tab, straightened the top of the out tube and welded on your reinforcing steel, it would seem to me that you've now left a "gap" equal to the thickness of the wear tabs head. If this is true, then it sounds like you've still got a gap "similar" to the gap you had with the crowned out tube.
In other words, you may still have trouble with skipping teeth. See attached sketch for what I mean.
But if you drilled a hole in your reinforcing steel and kept the tab, I think you'll be OK.

Wear tabs are still there. I did drill a hole. Can't see it in the pics. The gap you see there now is just the thickness of the wear tab.[/QUOTE]

EXCELLENT - Great minds think alike!

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