Originally Posted by ronthet
I have a 2022 Forest River Surveyor Legend 252 RBLE. Only one slide on this unit and its the dinette. I believe it is the rack and pinion style slide out. No rails on either side of slide visible.
It works fine when extending and shutting off like it should after the sound, we all wait for. The problem comes when I bring the slide in. It appears to come all the way in but the sound you expect at the closing does not happen. The slide appears to be all the way in and looks so when I go outside and check.
The issue is after the slide stops coming in you can hear the fuse pop/blow.
I am not to familiar with trouble shooting electrical issues. I assume I need to get to the motor etc. for the slide. Which I'm afraid is in the underbelly.
So any idea on how to trouble shoot without dropping the underbelly
If the slide is a "rack and pinion" type (Lippert will call it an electric through frame) it will have an electric actuator that pushes it out or pulls it in. The gearbox the motor is attached to has a torque limiting clutch in it that will "chatter" when it reaches the limits of slide (actuator) travel. This is just like the chatter on a cordless drill when set to release torque when driving screws.
If the slide itself moves freely when retracting but there is no sound from the clutch releasing torque when the slide reaches full retract, the clutch in the gearbox is most likely defective. It's not releasing and the stalled motor is causing the fuse to blow.
The gear image on the left contains the "clutch" and this set is $99 on Amazon (assuming the gearbox is a standard Lippert 18:1 Venture gearbox).
Caution: Beware of cheap look-alike replacement gears. Some have no clutch built in and will either cause more blown fuses or just strip gear teeth off when travel limit is hit.
The motor is located in the underbelly of the trailer. It will be on the Curb Side, usually near the inner side of the main frame rail. It can be accessed by cutting a window flap in the coroplast material. Look for the manual operation shaft that goes through the frame and just inside the frame rail cut a 24" x 24" "window, cutting only both sides and the rear edge. Leave front of flap uncut for easier closing when finished with motor.
To close up after addressing motor/gearbox issue put some strips of 3/8" plywood or particle board on the top/inside of the coroplast at the cut edges and secure with short drywall screws. Leave enough exposed wood so the flap can be secured to the wood with screws after folded back in place.
When I finished securing the flap on mine I used some Pipe Wrap tape like this to seal the cuts:
It's vinyl tape but much thicker than just black electrical tape and more water resistant than Duct Tape. Should be on the shelf at HD, Lowes, etc. Make sure to clean coroplast surface before applying tape with Acetone for best adhesion.
In closing, it appears your problem is more likely a mechanical problem rather than electrical. When motors are stalled out, current skyrockets and fuses blow. If no clutch to release load on motor when the slide is at it travel limit, current will climb and fuse blows.