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Old 06-11-2018, 08:56 AM   #81
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Slide will not open

OK, I think this is starting to sink in. Right now the front motor runs longer. I have read the replies a couple of times and I think I am reading conflcting advice When I swap the motor cables and the rear motor now runs longer, what is the problem. If the front motor continues to run longer, what is the problem. Finally, if we determine the problem to be in one of the cables or motor, how do I tell which. I could disconnect the bad cable at both ends and check each pin for continuity. If I find not shorts, then I would guess the motor is shot or at least a connection has come loose.

I will swap the motor cables this evening and report in.

Thank you for the extremely valuable information!! With your help, I just might beat this.

Rich
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:20 AM   #82
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when you swap the wires and the same motor is acting up you have found that motor to be bad. If it’s the cable the original good motor would not work after the cable swap.
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:04 PM   #83
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Slide will not open

Ben and RV Tech,

I switched the motor wires (it was fast and easy) but it did not make difference. So while I was in the trailer, I decided to move the inner gasket to see the routing of the rear motor and what do I find??? The blue and purple wires are broken off about a half inch from the motor and the orange wire has part of the insulation worn away exposing a small bit of conductor. These are real small gauge wires, pretty delicate. IT LOOKS LIKE WE HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.

So now I would like directions on removing and replacing the motor. I would think I have to move the slide part way out. Not all the way out because the inside moulding will block the motor in the inside. I do not know if it removed from the inside or the outside and I do not know how difficult it is to remove. When I get it out, if removing the motor is not too difficult, I plan to resolder the wires. Not as a permenant fix but to see if the slide works again. I would also like guidance on how to protect these fragile wires. I think you have given me detailed instructions on how to re-sync the motors after replacement. I also have the good old motor that we paid to replace when we were told the old motors were not as reliable as the newer ones.

One last thing, I will be in contact with Shady Maple to see if they will help with the cost of a new motor as they replaced it 1.5 years ago. This is a long shot, I will give it a try.

Rich
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:54 PM   #84
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Can you re splice the wire together and at least use that to confirm your suspicion?
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:08 PM   #85
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Slide will not open

I think I will have trouble stripping the 2 broken wires. The breaks are about a half inch from the motor and the space above the motor is tight. I like the suggestion though.

I have to travel for work until Friday night so I will not get back to the slide until Saturday.

Rich
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:46 PM   #86
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They aren’t that bad after you figure them out. Once you damage multiple wires the bypas no longer works. Unplug your motors.That will disengage the brake system on the motors. It’s makes life a little easier to me at least. Now if you can leverage yourself against the opposite side you should be able to push the slide out a bit. About 6”-7” now Go to the outside of your rig. Grab a ladder. Go to the bad column. You will need a #2 Robertson’s screwdriver or bit for a screw gun. 6” down from the top you should see a set screw. Remove the screw. Go back to interior. Now you can get a small flat blade screwdriver underneath the motor and pop it up and work it out. Do your repair and reverse your removal. When they install the motors the wire harness at the top of the motor is supposed to face toward the interior of the rig. I could explain in more detail but I believe if you go online look up installation of schwintek in wall slide out motor. That way you can see it done. Once the motor is out the slide will move very easily. At the bottom of the motor there are four alignment pins that slip into the alignment holes in the bearing block in the column. Look at your old motors output shaft. The coupler in the bearing block has to line up with that. Reinstall the motor spin it with your fingers while applying a bit of downward pressure until you see it drop down a bit. Now the motor and coupler are aligned. Now either push softly in or out and you will see the motor spin. 300-1 ratio 1/8” push is 1/8 rotation approx.spin until pond line up with he in bearing block. Make sure motor body is flush with bearing block plug it in secure the wire so it can’t get snagged up in the wall again. Wire harness loop screwed up above the column works great. Lubrticate you interior gasket or it has one and slid it on from top to bottom. Reinstall you set screw. Plug in your motors. Sync it and you ready to go. Now why I helped out. My dad was a mech. Engineer. Manager of product development at North American Rockwell. He’s been gone 6 years now. You being a engineer of some type. Reminded me of the phone calls I used to get fro my parent in their RV journeys they would go on. I guess he was looking out for his fellow Engineer. Glad I could help. Haven’t been on this site in over a year. Good luck. Over and out.
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:48 PM   #87
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Oh I might as well introduce myself. Mike
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:41 PM   #88
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I'm glad you appeared to have found the problem, and have some great advice on how to fix it. I'm looking forward to hearing about the resolution. Please keep posting on your progress.

I couldn't picture the process in my head, so I found this video on youtube that shows how the motor comes out:

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Old 06-11-2018, 10:51 PM   #89
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Yep had 4 in my service bay today. I would not go anywhere without spare motors. Would suggest if you have this system and are mechanicaly inclighned to learn the system as you will get the schwintek bug eventually.
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:59 AM   #90
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Slide will not open

I watched the motor removal video several times. It looks pretty easy. I did notice 2 things.

1. The slide was almost all the way out. I will need to put the slide into OVERRIDE and move it out.
2. The video glosses over the removal of the screw that holds the motor. I think the screw is accessed from the outside. That explains why the slide is part way out.

Travelling today so I will not get to this until Saturday. I have an original motor I kept as a spare. I might put it back in. This is the one that I was told the wire connections tend to break off.

Assuming I put in a new motor I will have to figure out a way to route the wires from the motor to insure they do not break or scrape again.


Rich
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:03 PM   #91
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Slide will not go out

Now that I know the problem is broken motor wires and I have a spare motor, I am wondering if the back motor is different (spins the other way) from the front motor? Or is the wire polarity to the motor switched? I want to be sure the spare motor I have will not cause a new problem.

Rich
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:08 PM   #92
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the motors are all the same, the controller controls the spin direction
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:04 PM   #93
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Your good to go
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:21 AM   #94
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Thumbs down Slide will not open

To ALL,

I think I repaired the slide. After OVERRIDING the slide and moving it out about a foot this morning, I loosened the set screw at the outside of the slide. Going inside I disconnected the motor. But it would not come out as easily as the video shows. I pried it out with a screwdriver. The motor popped out with an adapter attached to the shaft. My plan was to put in the old motor I have but the shaft had the wrong orientation and it could not be rotated. So I soldered in 3 short wires to the 2 broken ones and the single frayed one. I did this because stripping and soldering the wires would have made the cable too short. I was real careful stripping the wires because they are surprising fine gauge wires and the 2 broke about a half inch from the motor. After soldering, I insulated the now 6 solder joints with shrink tubing and check continuity. everything was good. It further insulate and protect the wires, I wrapped the individual wires and all 6 with electrical tape. And checked continuity again. Putting the motor back in was not so easy. First it the shaft and adapter must line up, then the 4 set pins must line up with the holes in the bracket. It just would not go. After struggling with it for about a half hour, I gave the slide a good shove out and the motor seated easily. I reconnected the cable and replaced the screw at the outside. The control panel no longer indicated a fault. While on my ladder outside, I noticed the top of the slide had a some leaves and junk on it, part of the weather stripping was folded under, and both edges of the weatherstripping were torn. So I cleaned off the clutter, and siliconed the weatherstripping. However with the silicone not dry I could not test the slide. After a half hour I could not wait any longer. So I tried the slide. It went in and out about a foot flawlessly. Either later today or tomorrow comes the full test. But I am pretty sure I got it. When I took out the motor, I saw what broke and frayed the 3 wires. There is a sharp metal "tongue" right next to the wires. Any vibration or rubbing would damage the wires and/or insulation. I wrapped the sharp metal with electrical tape to eliminate the sharp edge. When I finally put all the gaskets back in place I will make sure the wires are in a safe position.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:47 AM   #95
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Your good to go. Sync. the system as I talked about earlier. Secure wires likphoto.http://swbaseries
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Old 06-16-2018, 02:58 PM   #96
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Great job! Enjoyed reading and learning. Hope I never have to encounter the same problems. But this has everything (shirt if pictures or video). Thanks and good luck!
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:40 AM   #97
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Slide will not open

Matt (RV Tech),

I reread the instructions you gave for removing and replacing the motor. They were absolutely accurate right down to using a screwdriver to pry out the motor. I performed the re-timing proceedure. It took more iterations than I thought it would and the front motor still runs a fraction of a second longer than the rear. But it does go in an out. I did get one scare when the power to the trailer was completely dead. When replacing the motor retaining screw and cleaning stuff from the top of the slide, I hit the shore power cord with my ladder loosening the plug. This apparently caused the 30A breaker to trip. Once reset, everything is fine.

So now that the slide is operational again, my wife and I are still considering trading the Forest River for a trailer that does not have a Schwintek slide. I am still bother by the unreliability. And getting to the rear motor was difficult but I do not know how I would get to the front motor which is about 10" from a wall if it fails. With the slide out the motor is blocked by moulding. If in, I could not possibly get to the motor.

So, we are looking for a new trailer. This is an expensive decision, more than $12K. So I am searching for the best deal. I have found the offers to be very consistent. I did look at a Jayco 23RL trailer Saturday. It was OK but is smaller than our Forest River 26RL. But it is about 1,500# lighter and about 3 feet shorter. I have also looked at a Heartland Trail Runner 25 RL and a Keystone Cougar X-Lite 28RL, although these 2 are more expensive. Are there any opinions, positive or negative on Jayco, Heartland, and Keystone trailers?

Rich
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:20 PM   #98
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Glad it’s working for you. When we first got that system it drove me crazy. That repair is usually caused by poor quality workmanship at assembly line. They have got better. If the wires are secured so they can’t get damaged you should be fine. I’m sure you know what a zip tie is. They have them with a eyelet for securing wires. Just pull some slack up and secure them with the wires going straight up from the motor above the top slde moulding. As for advice on trailers I can’t help you there. Go online when you find something you like and research.
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:06 PM   #99
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Great thead! I will need to start the trouble shooting tomorrow. Mine is the front motor. Slide moves 2 inches and front motor stops. Using override it will move out and in.

What is risk of using override?
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:42 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry L View Post
Great thead! I will need to start the trouble shooting tomorrow. Mine is the front motor. Slide moves 2 inches and front motor stops. Using override it will move out and in.

What is risk of using override?
What is the override you are taking about? My slide starts to come in but the one side stops. I have to go out and in and sometimes push on one side to get it in. It takes about 20 minuets together the slide in. Thanks

Tank
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