slides not working with shore power

[CHICKDOE]

this switch is in the battery cable between the 12 fuse panel and the battery and its 'designed' purpose is to disconnect the 12 volt loads from the battery while in storage so the batteries do not discharge.

but the above is missing 2 very keys points!

1. if the batteries are disconnected it will also prevent the converter from charging the batteries when you are connected to shore power.

2. there are probably several devices wired directly to the batteries that still result in parasitic loads discharging the batteries while in storage.

turn this switch to the on position and see if your batteries suddenly start to get recharged. it might be that simple.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

no we bought it new about 4 years ago

So you've never used the battery disconnect switch, until now?

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

this switch is in the battery cable between the 12 fuse panel and the battery and its 'designed' purpose is to disconnect the 12 volt loads from the battery while in storage so the batteries do not discharge.

but the above is missing 2 very keys points!

1. if the batteries are disconnected it will also prevent the converter from charging the batteries when you are connected to shore power.

2. there are probably several devices wired directly to the batteries that still result in parasitic loads discharging the batteries while in storage.

turn this switch to the on position and see if your batteries suddenly start to get recharged. it might be that simple.

Thanks for your explanation and input all ideas are welcome.
checked the battery disconnect yesterday, it worked as it should, But didn't help with the problem of no shore power. When I speak of shore power , I've got the trailer at the house plugged up to 110v with an adapter.
thanks

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

Also, if you disconnect the battery and the inverter was not working wouldn’t you have zero bolts at the converter, or close to it? Flip and reset the 120vac circuit breaker that feeds the converter. Double and triple check the reverse polarity fuses.

1) flipped and reset breakers yesterday ,nothing.
2)Checked fuses again, not the problem.
3) battery has steady drain down to 10.31, so put the charger back on yesterday afternoon.

4) disconnected battery, and left plugged into 110v adapter, no power to trailer at all from the shop the 110v is dead in trailer.

5) switched out extension cords feeding trailer, nothing

6) about out of ideas, going to check the 50amp to 110v power adapter today, and check the trailer's power cord

the trailer simply is just not getting power from the 110v cord feeding it. if i disconnect the battery while plugged in, no power.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

...the trailer simply is just not getting power from the 110v cord feeding it. if i disconnect the battery while plugged in, no power.

We were looking at a converter problem and assuming that you had 110 volt power in the trailer. If you don't, that is a totally different problem. Your battery will discharge and there is nothing to charge it up again.

You need to check to see if there is 110 volt power coming in on the cord and then if it is getting to the panel. If you feel uncomfortable about doing this any electrician can help you with it.

[CHICKDOE]

ok forget about the battery for the time being. you are saying you are not getting 110 vac into the trailer. concentrate on getting that resolved and most likely the battery issue will go away once the converter can charge it.

do you have a multimeter? you should start right at the 110 vac receptacle that is privide the power and ensure that it actually is. then move to the next connection (you mentioned an adapter) and verify that 110 vac power is coming out of it. continue one connection at a time until you reach the main breakers in the trailer. somewhere along this line you will find the failure.

common issues could be:
- receptacle is not providing power - you may have to reset the circuit breaker that feeds it
- if you have an EMS in the path it may be detected a problem and not passing power
- if you have a transfer switch it may not be passing power
- loose or corroded terminals in shore power cord
- loose or corroded terminal or wires in the shore power receptacle.

once the point of failure is found the corrections are normally pretty simple.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

ok forget about the battery for the time being. you are saying you are not getting 110 vac into the trailer. concentrate on getting that resolved and most likely the battery issue will go away once the converter can charge it.

do you have a multimeter? you should start right at the 110 vac receptacle that is privide the power and ensure that it actually is. then move to the next connection (you mentioned an adapter) and verify that 110 vac power is coming out of it. continue one connection at a time until you reach the main breakers in the trailer. somewhere along this line you will find the failure.

common issues could be:
- receptacle is not providing power - you may have to reset the circuit breaker that feeds it
- if you have an EMS in the path it may be detected a problem and not passing power
- if you have a transfer switch it may not be passing power
- loose or corroded terminals in shore power cord
- loose or corroded terminal or wires in the shore power receptacle.

once the point of failure is found the corrections are normally pretty simple.

X3
Now that we know the 120v AC isn't being provided to the R/V then things to check are a bit different than what we've been telling you to say the least.

Using a multimeter check all the things mentioned, in the order mentioned, starting at where the R/V plugs into your house.

Let us know what you find.

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

We were looking at a converter problem and assuming that you had 110 volt power in the trailer. If you don't, that is a totally different problem. Your battery will discharge and there is nothing to charge it up again.

You need to check to see if there is 110 volt power coming in on the cord and then if it is getting to the panel. If you feel uncomfortable about doing this any electrician can help you with it.

there are gremlins in there...i just know it!

1) checked 110v ext cord to camper, it's ok and getting current
2) checked 110v to 50amp adapter, it's ok. got (2) hot legs and checked for continuity
3) checked camper's power cord, got (2) hot legs also, and continuity, it's ok
4) checked every manual circuit breaker in the box and they all have 124v. so they are ALL hot.

what's left to check?

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by 5picker

X3
Now that we know the 120v AC isn't being provided to the R/V then things to check are a bit different than what we've been telling you to say the least.

Using a multimeter check all the things mentioned, in the order mentioned, starting at where the R/V plugs into your house.

Let us know what you find.

i disconnected the battery again and

1) i'm getting power to the camper however, the lights don't work on shore power
2) receptacles seems to be working and producing 110v
3) nothing works at the main light switch panel for interior lights, power vent fan, scare light, etc.
4) GFIC receptacles are working
5) i'm reading 124v at everyone of manual breakers in the breaker box

[bigmurph]

If you are getting AC power in and AC power in the camper at outlets then I would think the converter is bad since you are not getting DC power in the camper. You should have DC power without a battery. Not enough for large loads but you should be able to operate lights and things. If there are no fuses blown I think the converter is bad.

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by bigmurph

If you are getting AC power in and AC power in the camper at outlets then I would think the converter is bad since you are not getting DC power in the camper. You should have DC power without a battery. Not enough for large loads but you should be able to operate lights and things. If there are no fuses blown I think the converter is bad.

back to the converter, this looks like quite the pain to replace?
all the wiring in this has be loosened and then reconnected to the new converter?

[5picker]

One more thing to check... you said you have power coming out of all the breakers.

Follow the 120v wire (usually black) that comes out of the 120v breaker for the converter, to where it connects to the converter section of the distribution box. (again you may need to pull the distribution box from the wall) The converter is a separate section that typically mounts to the rear of the distribution box.

Also check the neutral (usually white) and be sure it has a good circuit back to the neutral side of the distribution box.

if you have power going INTO the converter section and a good neutral path, I'd say the converter is bad.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

1) flipped and reset breakers yesterday ,nothing.
2)Checked fuses again, not the problem.
3) battery has steady drain down to 10.31, so put the charger back on yesterday afternoon.

4) disconnected battery, and left plugged into 110v adapter, no power to trailer at all from the shop the 110v is dead in trailer.

5) switched out extension cords feeding trailer, nothing

6) about out of ideas, going to check the 50amp to 110v power adapter today, and check the trailer's power cord

the trailer simply is just not getting power from the 110v cord feeding it. if i disconnect the battery while plugged in, no power.

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

there are gremlins in there...i just know it!

1) checked 110v ext cord to camper, it's ok and getting current
2) checked 110v to 50amp adapter, it's ok. got (2) hot legs and checked for continuity
3) checked camper's power cord, got (2) hot legs also, and continuity, it's ok
4) checked every manual circuit breaker in the box and they all have 124v. so they are ALL hot.

what's left to check?

What changed?

[dalford]

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

back to the converter, this looks like quite the pain to replace?
all the wiring in this has be loosened and then reconnected to the new converter?

So from the sounds of things you have got behind your distribution panel as you stated every breaker has 124 volts to it. Find the breaker for your converter. Chase that wire to your converter. My converter is a separate box underneath my stairs in the basement. Check the ac and dc voltages at the converter.

You should not have to disconnect and reconnect all the wires in your distribution panel to change the converter. Mine actually has a plug on it and plugs into an outlet that is su-plied ac from the converter breaker in the distribution panel.

[CHICKDOE]

Put a voltmeter on the ac input terminals to the converter to confirm that it is getting 120 vac power. Put a voltmeter on the dc output terminals to confirm that 12 vdc is or is not present.

You say the reverse polarity fuses are ok. Have they been pulled and check with a meter?

[dalford]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

Put a voltmeter on the ac input terminals to the converter to confirm that it is getting 120 vac power. Put a voltmeter on the dc output terminals to confirm that 12 vdc is or is not present.

You say the reverse polarity fuses are ok. Have they been pulled and check with a meter?

I’m not sure he knows where the converter is located? Maybe I missed that...

[Steve-W]

From the picture shown it appears to be a Progressive Dynamics PD4560. The converter section can be easily swapped out without pulling the distribution panel.

Link to troubleshooting and replacement of converter section.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by Steve-W

From the picture shown it appears to be a Progressive Dynamics PD4560. The converter section can be easily swapped out without pulling the distribution panel.

Where is the converter?

[Steve-W]

Originally Posted by dalford

Where is the converter?

It’s at the bottom of the power distribution panel.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

there are gremlins in there...i just know it!

1) checked 110v ext cord to camper, it's ok and getting current
2) checked 110v to 50amp adapter, it's ok. got (2) hot legs and checked for continuity
3) checked camper's power cord, got (2) hot legs also, and continuity, it's ok
4) checked every manual circuit breaker in the box and they all have 124v. so they are ALL hot.

what's left to check?

I don't understand why you are checking continuity if the 120 volts is working? Where are you checking continuity on what and from where to where??