Sp 293 slide quit working

[grb2980]

Hello all,

My slide quit working as I was bringing it in.

I have checked all the fuses in the converter/fuse box. All are good.

I have traced the wires underneath the trailer from the battery to the point they go inside the trailer and can't find an inline fuse. I have traced the wires from the slide motor underneath the sink until they disappear back under the trailer. No inline fuse. I have traced the wires from the rocker switch at the door back to a point where they disappear into a false wall, where I suspect they go to the converter/fuse box. Again no inline fuse.

Guys I'm at my wits end. I can't imagine that the mfr. would have hidden the fuse inside the wall. Nor can I imagine that they would have not put a fuse somewhere. Am I totally missing something? There is a bunch of round connectors where wires from the battery are connected to wires leading back to the fuse box. I thought those might be fuses so I pulled the cover off one and it's just a waterproof connector.

I would like to determine if the motor is dead. How do I test it? I would like to see if the rocker switch is dead. How do I test it?

I can use my cordless drill to move the slide in and out, but I'd rather have this thing working.

[Aussieguy]

did you check the battery voltage .... If it is low can cause problems


plug in shorepower or to truck and turn truck on
then try to move slide

[grb2980]

I've pulled the rocker switch and I have 11.17vdc with shore power unplugged. I've tested the switch and get continuity tone when the switch is in the "slide in" and "slide out" position. No tone when neither switch is activated. Now on to trying to see if power is getting to the motor.

[grb2980]

Sorry I should have mentioned that while plugged into shore power the slide still wont move.

[rdailey]

11.17vdc is not a good reading.

[Aussieguy]

can you see the motor?
if yes.... disconnect the wires and measure the voltage on the loose wire while someone operates the switch


NOTE ... if you have two motors disconnect BOTH before testing

[grb2980]

Steady 12.35vdc on shore power.

[grb2980]

I'm a one man operation so I'm using a pair of voice grips to gently activate both sides and test one by one. I'm not disconnecting the wires from the motor as they are crimped with those permanent wire nuts. I'm sticking my multi meter probes through the insulation on the incoming wires. Using the trailer frame as a ground, I'm getting .9vdc on both wires. Shouldn't at least the hot side by 12.35vdc? If so, then the problem lies in the switch or somewhere between it and the motor.

[grb2980]

I believe it's the switch. I tested the power on the out bound side of the switch while it was activated and the meter dances all over the place. No steady voltage anywhere.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by grb2980

I believe it's the switch. I tested the power on the out bound side of the switch while it was activated and the meter dances all over the place. No steady voltage anywhere.

Next step: jumper the switch with a clip lead, or simply bridge it with a screwdriver or pliers tips.

Unfortunately the RV industry has a really bad habit of using AC-rated switches in DC applications which leads to a high failure rate.

[grb2980]

The new switch came in yesterday and that is not the problem. Fortunately that little bit of information only cost $10.00

So the problem lies somewhere between the switch and the motor. Somewhere in the damn wall I'm sure. I'm thinking that I'll create a temporary bypass set of wires and go directly from the switch to the motor. That will prove once and for all whether or not the wiring in the wall is good or bad.