2015 Silverback 29IK Winterize vs De-winterize: Valve positions

[Padua2]

Hey y'all. We have a 2015 Silverback 29IK. This is my first time de-winterizing (it came winterized). As I look at the picture on the Water Heater By-Pass & Winterizing Manifold chart provided, I get somewhat confused (which is a state of mind I am usually in).

So basically, there are five "valves" in the attached chart. I am not understanding if the valve positions shown are for winterizing. So I have a few questions for you more experienced folks out there: 1. What position (open or closed) should they be all at for de-winterizing? 2. Are the positions of the valves the same for winterizing as for de-winterizing? and after de-winterizing, what should they all be returned to?

and concerning the By-Pass valve in the middle, Should it be open or closed for de-winterizing, and should it be the opposite when winterizing?
Does it ever need to be closed? Pictures attached. I know I am overthinking this, but I promise myself I will write out a detailed step by step, for next year.

Kind Regards.

[richp]

Hi,

You are in bypass now, so all you have to do is reverse each of the three valves at the back of the heater.

The other two valves perform a separate function -- enabling you to draw water from a jug of antifreeze, or in the alternative, to fill your fresh tanks from external jugs/containers.

Hope this helps.

[Padua2]

Originally Posted by richp

Hi,

You are in bypass now, so all you have to do is reverse each of the three valves at the back of the heater.

The other two valves perform a separate function -- enabling you to draw water from a jug of antifreeze, or in the alternative, to fill your fresh tanks from external jugs/containers.

Hope this helps.

Ok. Thanks. But I haven’t dewinterized yet. Don’t I need to get antifreeze out/flushed out first? If I reverse now, won’t the antifreeze get on the water heater?

[richp]

Hi,

I've never bothered doing that. But yes, I suppose you could push some water through the lines now, to get the pink stuff more completely out of the system before turning those three valves and filling the water heater.

In that case, you might as well open your low point drains as well, so any pink stuff in there gets out, on general principle.

[Padua2]

When is the Water Heater Bypass valve used? Or when must it be closed, and when must it be open.
Thanks

[cavie]

For the valves to be open the handles need to be parallel with the pipe. Closed is 90 degrees with the pipe. Handles pointing at the water heater water going in and coming out. Pointing away from the tank. Valves closed.

The one in the middle is the same. handle with the pipe = water flow. 90 degrees to the pipe valve closed.

you need to drain and remove all the antifreeze first then close the drain valves. Open low point drains and close the valves when pink stops. Use the city water to push all the water out of all the faucets and shower heads. Then you change the WH valve and fill the WH. You will need to release the pressure release valve to do this. Do not turn on the electric to the WH if it has no water in it.

Same thing goes for the Anti freeze house. Handles inline is open valve. You want citywater open and antifreeze pick up closed.

[prairiecamper]

Originally Posted by Padua2

When is the Water Heater Bypass valve used? Or when must it be closed, and when must it be open.
Thanks

The water heater bypass valve is opened for winterizing and the cold inlet closed and hot outlet is closed so that you bypass the heater from filling it with antifreeze. In de winterizing that valve is closed and the cold inlet and hot outlet are opened so you may fill the heater with water.

As a note of caution do not apply heat to the water heater prior to filling it full with water, the electric heating element will burn up very quickly.
Hope this helps.

[richp]

Hi,

This might also be of help.

Rich

[Grumpy7159]

I have a 2017 IK29. I de-winterize mine by pumping chlorine water in the system thru the antifreeze tube. The HW tank is still bypassed. I open each faucet one at a time until clear water runs out. (Don't forget the washer/dryer valves. Use short hose with a bucket). Close the antifreeze valve and open the fresh tank shut off valve. I put about 10 gallons of chlorinated water in my fresh water tank thru the fill connection. I let every thing soak for a couple hours. I drain everything at the low point drains and the fresh water tank drain and flush with city water. I put the HW tank plug back in place (I drain the tank when winterizing and leave the plug loose) and open the cold water and hot water valves on the tank. Then I close the HW bypass valve. I fill the HW tank with city water and open the sink hot water faucet to purge air out of the hot water lines. I fill the fresh water tank and I am ready to go. Winterizing is mostly draining the systems and all the tanks. Pump in the pink RV stuff and open the faucets until the pink stuff runs out of them. My trailer takes 4 to 5 gallons. (I pour some in the drains and toilet. I leave some to keep the seals covered) Some people blow the antifreeze out of the lines with air before parking for the winter. Not a bad idea, but not required.