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Old 08-27-2019, 09:50 AM   #21
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Tomkatb

Please note that I did include the moderate temperature of 70 degrees in my post as I know variables have an impact on results. In our situation I have to build a ramp in my driveway when I bring the unit home or the back end of the 5er drags. This is a 15 minute to 30 minute process each time and during this time I am blocking the street to accomplish. My storage facility does not have shore power so I am interested in seeing if I can chill the refrigerator/freezer at the storage facility sufficiently via batteries with solar supplementing battery life during chilling time. I know the solar will not keep batteries charged sufficiently to run the refrig/freezer over a long term. If I can get the refrig/freezer to an acceptable temp at the storage facility I can then load the food there and not have to bring the unit to the house. In my neighborhood a RV in the driveway is only allowed for a short time per association rules.

Also, be mindful that once you are hooked to your tow vehicle the solar panels are not being used to run the refrigerator. The refrigerator will keep running whether you are in Texas heat or the Ohio climate.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Sandbagger View Post
Also, be mindful that once you are hooked to your tow vehicle the solar panels are not being used to run the refrigerator. The refrigerator will keep running whether you are in Texas heat or the Ohio climate.
How do you figure that?

If you are towing, the fridge is still running off the batteries. The batteries are charged by both the solar panels and a very small amount from the tow vehicle depending on the size of your wiring.

Forget about the idea that the solar panels ever run the fridge. They charge the batteries. The solar panel will likely never supply enough current by themselves to run the fridge.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:09 PM   #23
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I do not know how long it takes to lower the temp of a residential fridge to operational temps.

We were told not to load our new fridge in the house for 24 hours. In the book.

I think 5-6 hours might do that. Or 1500 watts. Or three batteries so the fridge can run constantly.

I would turn it on an hour before leaving. Add 50# of frozen water for drinking and load her up. But, it may stop working at some point in the travel. Close enough. No ice cream. When we do not pre cool our fridge we put everything in a cooler. Drive on and transfer everything when we plug in for the night.

Batteries are the problem. Beer is supposedly not to be under 40 degrees!
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Old 09-04-2019, 01:06 PM   #24
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Do any if you know what type of converter is in the 34IK? I have AGM batteries installed and am hoping it's a 3 stage but don't have any literature on it nor where it's located in the trailer.
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Old 09-05-2019, 06:57 PM   #25
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Do any if you know what type of converter is in the 34IK? I have AGM batteries installed and am hoping it's a 3 stage but don't have any literature on it nor where it's located in the trailer.
The converter is located behind the fuse/breaker panel down by your stairs. You can access it by removing the panel in the storage bay next to the in-Command panel. I'm not positive about which model it is, haven't looked to be honest.
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:14 PM   #26
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Thanks Daycuiser. I'll post up what I find out when I can get in there.
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:16 AM   #27
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How long did batteries last.

We have a 2018 Cedar Creek Champagne that came equipped with:
(1) 200 watt solar panel
(4) Interstate SRM-24, 550 CCA, deep cycle 12v batteries, with all (4) hooked in series, after delivery.
(1) 1000 watt inverter (WFCO model WF-5100).
Residential 20 cu. ft. Whirpool fridge, with estimated 220 kWh annual use.

Our biggest test/experience was in Las Vegas where our RV was parked, unoccupied in full sun without any shore power and temps topping out just over 110 degrees, for 3 consecutive days. Fridge and freezer were full of food.

Note: Temp inside of RV was in the upper 90's during the almost 3 days it sat unoccupied.

After disconnecting from shore power in afternoon of day 0, batteries were 100% charged, freezer reading zero and fridge at 38 degrees.
After 24 hours, batteries were about 80% charge, freezer at zero and fridge at 38 degrees.
After 48 hours, batteries were about 57% charge, freezer at zero and fridge at 38 degrees.
After 68 hours, batteries were at 25% charge, freezer at 32 and fridge at 68 degrees.


Lesson Learned: We are good for only 48 hours with fridge keeping food frozen and cold when it's over 110 degrees. Maybe next time, I'll disconnect the 12v power to the Jensen radio and get an additional 30 minutes of better cooling to the refrigerator ......... just kidding.

One more thing - I know batteries shouldn't have be drained below 50%, but this was a real life experience, I mean experiment..... whatever.....

Hope this helps in getting a rough idea on fridge and battery potential.
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Old 09-27-2019, 01:44 PM   #28
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I have a 35IK with solar prep and behind the control panel i found two sets of negative and positive wires coming down from the roof connection i think. one set of wires has an inline 30 amp fuse and i assume those go to the solar controller.The other set of wires are just cut off and hanging in the void and when i check voltage it shows 13 volts, same as batteries. My question is, where do those wires go and what do the hook to. Jack
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