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Old 09-21-2018, 01:09 PM   #1
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35IK Shower Water Backing Up In Kitchen Sink

Any 35IK owners out there that have had to have one of your gray tanks lowered so that the drain/vent pipe could be shortened to allow the tank to vent properly? Ours will only fill to about 1/3 full and then it backs up into the sink. The warranty person at Forest River believes that is what has happened. I am a little nervous allowing a dealer to remove the panels and lower the tank so that the pipe can be shortened.
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Old 09-21-2018, 01:24 PM   #2
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Which sink … kitchen or bath? Our 33IK is just a slightly shorter version of yours. It has 2 separate grey tanks that are not joined unless you open the valves to both tanks and let them equalize. Dropping the grey tank would be quite a job. There's only a couple of inches of space to drop the main grey tank … I've been inside the belly above the plastic panels. I believe you have something else going on unless the factory workers did indeed shove the vent pipe too far into the tank when they glued things up.
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Old 09-21-2018, 06:00 PM   #3
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35IK Plumbing

Thank you for your input. The issue is the gray tank that is under the kitchen floor receives water from the shower and the kitchen, the second gray tank receives water from the lav sinks and the clothes washer. The second grey tank works just fine and I can access it from inside the basement storage area. When the first grey tanks gets about a 1/3 full it backs up into the kitchen sink. When the shower is running it actually will force water out of the kitchen drain. I have removed the siphon valve from under the sink and you can hear it relieve the pressure in the tank. I have removed the vent caps on the roof and they appear to be clear as I can hear water running in the pipes. I called the factory and they are the ones who told me that the vent pipe must be installed to deep into the tank. (One would wonder if it has happened before.) I also asked for the drawings of the grey water system which I have, however they are not very detailed. My biggest concern is from watching the factory build video, the tanks are installed from the top side and I am not sure if it will be that easy to drop the tank and reinstall it so that everything will not leak.
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:36 PM   #4
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I better understand your issue now. I well know your hesitance to take your fiver back to the dealer ... few have techs with skills needed to do a decent job and fix the issue at the same time. Accepting that the vent pipe is too deep in the tank ... removing the tank will involve cutting two drain pipes (shower, sink), a vent pipe, and the tank drain line itself ... plus removing the four tank sensor wires, plus removing the straps holding the tank in, plus un-wiring the tank heater pad. Depending on where the drain line for the tank itself is cut ... you may have to deal with disconnecting the dump valve pull cable. Then you get to deal with how to remove the vent stub left and reinstall it correctly. Maybe pushing for a new tank would be easier in the long run ... just starting from scratch. Push for a new tank heater as well. They are installed with an adhesive backing and seldom are pried off intact or with enough adhesive to reinstall as well as OEM. It's gonna be a job! I know I gave no real cure, but I tried to throw out some things to be knowledgeable of.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomer116ars View Post
Any 35IK owners out there that have had to have one of your gray tanks lowered so that the drain/vent pipe could be shortened to allow the tank to vent properly? Ours will only fill to about 1/3 full and then it backs up into the sink. The warranty person at Forest River believes that is what has happened. I am a little nervous allowing a dealer to remove the panels and lower the tank so that the pipe can be shortened.


Just curious but how far are you from Topeka? Any chance you might be able to take a trip there. Amish Family RV would be the place to take your camper too.
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Old 09-22-2018, 11:13 AM   #6
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I have seen other posts where the vent was not properly secured and dropped down. I would try turning it from the roof 1st, just be sure you don't lift too far. A little at a time and verifying with an inspection camera would be good.
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Old 09-22-2018, 11:38 AM   #7
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Unfortunately ... galley vent isn't inline with roof.
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Old 09-22-2018, 02:25 PM   #8
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Vent Issues

Thanks for all of the inputs. Diesel guy is correct the vent pipe is not a straight shot and is has a tee connection to the sink drains. Nice idea though. I have decided to see if the factory will allow me to wait so that I can go to Amish RV. We live in Idaho but are going to Oshkosh WI in July for Air adventure so we could make to their repair facility then.
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:56 PM   #9
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Boomer - you want to contact Orvan Fry....he is booked many months in advance, so give him a call now so that you can get the date you want. Here is his number: 260-593-0951, Extension 1.

He does really nice work and will fix you right up.

Good Luck.
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Old 09-22-2018, 07:08 PM   #10
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Boomer - you want to contact Orvan Fry....he is booked many months in advance, so give him a call now so that you can get the date you want. Here is his number: 260-593-0951, Extension 1.



He does really nice work and will fix you right up.



Good Luck.


Orvan is a great guy, he knows Silverbacks and Cedar Creek
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Old 09-28-2018, 04:29 PM   #11
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I have a related problem. In our Coachmen 321 FEDSLE the shower stall was installed with the center drain at the highest point in the shower pan. We have been using a squeegee to push the water to the drain and ultimately sop up the remaining water with a towel. Needless to say this is a PITA. My question is, is the shower drain hooked up with a slip coupling or is it glued? If it's glued I guess we'll just have to live with it. Gonna be at the dealer next week and want to know in advance if this is fixable. Thanx in advance for any help.
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