battery won't stay up.

[dcoke]

The battery on my 2010 34 rlsa won't stay up. I am plugged into 50 amp. service. It just started doing this a couple of weeks ago. Battery tested good. Where should I look? Any help appreciated. Thanks

[Ford Idaho]

I'd start by looking at the power inverter, do you hear a fan running near the fuse/breaker box?

[glen1971]

Your battery isn't charging? Blown fuse between your battery and converter?

[Flybob]

Disconnect negative cable from battery. Charge with an external auto battery charger. Let it sit for a few days and check battery. This will determine if it is the battery or something in the RV. If it is the original battery it is probably 5 yrs old. If it was ever drawn down too deep, it may need to be replaced.

[dcoke]

where and how do you find the inverter on a 2010 CC 34rlsa? How do you get behind the divider between front storage and main storage. I can see the battery wires running down behind this area but can't see behind. Thanks, dcoke

[rzrnaz]

Originally Posted by dcoke

The battery on my 2010 34 rlsa won't stay up. I am plugged into 50 amp. service. Battery tested good.

I'm with Flybob. If by 'won't stay up' you mean that you get full voltage while plugged in, then the voltage, or lights, drop quickly when not plugged in, that means that your converter (110/220AC to 12 volts DC) is likely just fine.

If you battery really is about 5 years old, that's another strike against the battery.

While there are many, many possible causes for this, the vast, vast probability is that you just need a new battery.

You said it was tested? There are two tests. 1) just using a voltmeter, and 2) using a voltmeter and a load, after letting it sit. Flybob's test is closer to #2. If you, or a service person, or battery store person didn't do #2, then it wasn't really tested. I've seen the counter guy a Intersate Battery do just #1 and call it good when a battery wasn't.

You can either take it to a battery place and make sure they do #2, or do Flybob's test. That will tell you whether it's really good.

[GlennFC]

If you want a quick and dirty way to confirm if your on board charger is working, put the voltmeter on the battery terminals when the trailer is plugged in. Your meter should read 13.2 to 13.4 volts if the battery is charged and the charger is working. If your charger is unplugged, the battery should read 12.7 to 12.73 volts if fully charged.
There are also some reasonably priced battery testers that are fast and accurate. I borrow my sons unit to do an annual capacity check. Here is a link to the tester I use. Amazon.com: SOLAR BA5 100-1200 Cold Cranking Amps Electronic Battery Tester: Automotive

[rzrnaz]

So, your choices are for a load test (#2 in my post):
1. Do Flybob's test (Free, but takes some of your time)
2. Take it somewhere and ask them to do a load test (Free, but takes some of your time
3. Buy the meter off of Amazon for $42.40 (Costs $42.40 but takes seconds to do after you get the meter)

[camaraderie]

Alternate load tester:
6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester
22 bucks + they always have a 20% off coupon you can clip

First step though is mesure voltage at the battery terminals while plugged in to shore power with interior light on and working. Should read at least 13.2V....otherwise there is a charger/converter problem which may be a fuse or a converter failure. If you do have over 13.2V.... take it off the charger and disconnect the negtive wire for 24 hours then use a voltmeter to measure voltage at the battery terminals...should be at least 12.4-12.6V measured. If you re showing good voltage then try the load tester.
Rznaz has it right.
If you have 13.2+ volts at the terminals while plugged in...the batt has probably been killed and the quickest way to prove it is a load test.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by camaraderie

Alternate load tester:
6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester
22 bucks + they always have a 20% off coupon you can clip

First step though is mesure voltage at the battery terminals while plugged in to shore power with interior light on and working. Should read at least 13.2V....otherwise there is a charger/converter problem which may be a fuse or a converter failure. If you do have over 13.2V.... take it off the charger and disconnect the negtive wire for 24 hours then use a voltmeter to measure voltage at the battery terminals...should be at least 12.4-12.6V measured. If you re showing good voltage then try the load tester.
Rznaz has it right.
If you have 13.2+ volts at the terminals while plugged in...the batt has probably been killed and the quickest way to prove it is a load test.

I bought that from the last time you mentioned it, it works great and less expensive. Buy the way Cam, thanks for that lead on the tester, I don't think I ever thank-you.......So THANK YOU

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by dcoke

where and how do you find the inverter on a 2010 CC 34rlsa? How do you get behind the divider between front storage and main storage. I can see the battery wires running down behind this area but can't see behind. Thanks, dcoke

Unless you have a residential fridge it is unlikely that you have an inverter. What you have is a Converter that converts 120v to 12v and charges your battery(s).
The converter resides behind the fuse/breaker panel.
The "battery wires" you see are probably headed to whatever runs your landing gear.

[dcoke]

Thanks to all for help on my battery problem. It was the converter that was the problem. Thanks again, have great day!!

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by dcoke

Thanks to all for help on my battery problem. It was the converter that was the problem. Thanks again, have great day!!

What did you put back in for a converter?

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"