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Old 06-07-2018, 03:43 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ttanous View Post
I had my valves replaced with electric. They have been great so far.

Yea, this is my next move, but I have heard 50/50 on the electric valves, may be worth the shot if I can't get these working.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by djousma View Post
My cable pulls on my 2017 Cardinal were also very hard to operate. In fact over the first winter, they seized up, and had the dealer fix it(warranty). I *thought* it was the valves, and spent money buying the thetford valve lube...ahahaha what a joke.

I finally decided to install Electric Barker AutoDrains

all I can saw is WOW. Install was a couple hours, but it was pretty easy. They mount to your existing valves and replace the cable pulls with a valve actuator on the valve end, and rocker switches that you can mount in your water bay, or elsewhere. When I removed the cable pull mechanism from the valve, I manually opened and closed the valve and they were really smooth...must have been all that valve lube... The only modification I needed to make was to extend the length of wire between the valve and switch to reach the waterbay. I then bought a few 3/4" rubber plugs off ebay to plug the holes where the cable pulls used to be.

Best upgrade I ever made!

EDIT: I too have the Valterra manual valve on the end of the dump as well, for that oops moment.

So it was just a couple of hours to take down the underside panels and insulation and hook these up to the existing slide valves and wire it to the water bay control panel? Okay, looking into this now.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:53 PM   #23
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So this today as well, pretty good post.


So how would I go about fixing the back black cable pull that broke off at the handle from the cable? Is there a replacement handle and cable that I can purchase? Its for a Cedar Creek Silverback 36bh.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:00 PM   #24
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Just as suspected, loops and just plan crappy craftsmanship. The cable runs were not strapped to anything, so you have 6 ft of loose cable that just binds up whenever you try and pull the valve open or shut. This is the black tank in the black tank for the rear restroom. I had ripped the black handle off the cable trying to shut it, so, it looks like I need to replace the whole valve and cable, by the way, is part s29.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:01 PM   #25
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This is going to be a real crappy job ha ha ha.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:02 PM   #26
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But to fix this, I will replace the valve and there will be about 100 zip ties securing this cable to the frame.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:04 PM   #27
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Fortunately, you can see the heating pads are here haha.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:08 PM   #28
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So, I will order this valve, about 60 bucks, and replace this valve. I wish I could just replace the cable and handle, but I don't see a way to release the cable from the valve body.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:13 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by djousma View Post
My cable pulls on my 2017 Cardinal were also very hard to operate. In fact over the first winter, they seized up, and had the dealer fix it(warranty). I *thought* it was the valves, and spent money buying the thetford valve lube...ahahaha what a joke.

I finally decided to install Electric Barker AutoDrains

all I can saw is WOW. Install was a couple hours, but it was pretty easy. They mount to your existing valves and replace the cable pulls with a valve actuator on the valve end, and rocker switches that you can mount in your water bay, or elsewhere. When I removed the cable pull mechanism from the valve, I manually opened and closed the valve and they were really smooth...must have been all that valve lube... The only modification I needed to make was to extend the length of wire between the valve and switch to reach the waterbay. I then bought a few 3/4" rubber plugs off ebay to plug the holes where the cable pulls used to be.

Best upgrade I ever made!

EDIT: I too have the Valterra manual valve on the end of the dump as well, for that oops moment.
Curious, what power supply do you tie into to run these valves, and how much are they? Didn't see it on the web site.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:15 PM   #30
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I will say this, these Cedar Creek fifth wheels have excellent insulation, not only are the under panels covered in 2 inches of laid insulation, but the area underneath the flooring also has another layer of insulation.
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:04 AM   #31
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Went thru this with our CC 36CKTS since we bought it. Finally had a cable come apart on our last Christmas trip home. 2 things saved the trip 1, it broke in the open position, 2nd I have had a twist on valve from day 1.

We rebuilt all 3 valves with new Valterra cables we bought from Amazon and they work like a champ now. We found the actual valve wasn't the issue it was the cables and the way FR CC installed them.
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:32 AM   #32
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Went thru this with our CC 36CKTS since we bought it. Finally had a cable come apart on our last Christmas trip home. 2 things saved the trip 1, it broke in the open position, 2nd I have had a twist on valve from day 1.

We rebuilt all 3 valves with new Valterra cables we bought from Amazon and they work like a champ now. We found the actual valve wasn't the issue it was the cables and the way FR CC installed them.
So did you replace the valves fully or were you able to retain the valve body and just place new cables on them?
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:45 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by DKRITTER View Post
Went thru this with our CC 36CKTS since we bought it. Finally had a cable come apart on our last Christmas trip home. 2 things saved the trip 1, it broke in the open position, 2nd I have had a twist on valve from day 1.

We rebuilt all 3 valves with new Valterra cables we bought from Amazon and they work like a champ now. We found the actual valve wasn't the issue it was the cables and the way FR CC installed them.


We traded our Cedar Creek (which we really liked) on a Riverstone and were amazed at how easy the valves operated.

Im pretty sure they are the same valves, they just took the time to install them properly.

Maybe someone can visit the factory and show them the install instructions.
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:48 AM   #34
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Agreed, the valve body is installed just fine, it's the fact that they just let the cable swing to and fro fastened to nothing as it travels the 6 feet to the exterior pull station area. So every time you pull it, you are binding up 6 feet of untethered cable. I guarantee once I ziptie the cable to the trusses and underbody, it will be a straight pull and push and no more issues. We will see.
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:14 AM   #35
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So did you replace the valves fully or were you able to retain the valve body and just place new cables on them?
Readers Digest version.....

In the end we only replaced the cables.

Surprisingly, the old valves with the new cables work very well thankfully.
It would have been a huge PIA to completely replumb the waste system.



The way the original plumbing was configured we would have had to completely cut out the ABS (black pipe) and redo all of it to replace the valves.

All of the old cables were a braided cable style and way to long and the way they were routed was ridiculous when we finally got in there.
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:20 AM   #36
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Readers Digest version.....

In the end we only replaced the cables.

Surprisingly, the old valves with the new cables work very well thankfully.
It would have been a huge PIA to completely replumb the waste system.



The way the original plumbing was configured we would have had to completely cut out the ABS (black pipe) and redo all of it to replace the valves.

All of the old cables were a braided cable style and way to long and the way they were routed was ridiculous when we finally got in there.
Okay, so with that knowledge in hand, how did you separate the cable from the valve body? As you can see in the picture, there was one screw that I removed from the top of the cable housing that keeps the cable secured to the valve sleeve, but the sleeve assemble doesn't look like it easily separates from the valve body that is inline with the plumbing. I can try harder to see if the sleeve comes away from the valve body, it definitely wiggles around a little, while the valve body remains static. Is this how you did it? Just separate the sleeve that houses the cable somehow, allowing you not to have to take the valve out of the plumbing line?
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:26 AM   #37
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And I should note, the valve opens easily and closes just fine, it all hinges around the pathetic cable installation or lack there of. If they would have just zip tied the cable to a solid surface, the valves would have worked just fine.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:23 AM   #38
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Okay, so with that knowledge in hand, how did you separate the cable from the valve body? As you can see in the picture, there was one screw that I removed from the top of the cable housing that keeps the cable secured to the valve sleeve, but the sleeve assemble doesn't look like it easily separates from the valve body that is inline with the plumbing. I can try harder to see if the sleeve comes away from the valve body, it definitely wiggles around a little, while the valve body remains static. Is this how you did it? Just separate the sleeve that houses the cable somehow, allowing you not to have to take the valve out of the plumbing line?
Drained and flushed all 3 tanks several times, tilted trailer overnight to allow as much as possible to drain. Tilted the trailer as far as possible the other way to keep it from draining, then started working on it.

First I unbolted all 3 valves and all the mounts for the drain pipe then wrestled all three valves out. Then I took the pipe out.

There was a screw in the side up at the top that kept the block in.
There was a strap around the valve I took off allowing me to get to where the cable attached.
There was an Allen screw in the bottom of the block that locked the cable sheath in place.


We bought 3 cables off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and new Orings. (I think we bought the Orings from a local dealer.)

I untwisted the old cables and marked them for the appropriate length then removed them. I followed the Valterra directions for cutting their cables. We marked all 3 cables for where they were going and attached them to the old valves in the reverse order that we took them apart.


I liberally applied plumbers grease to the valves and Orings and very carefully put it all back together. We had also put a liberal amount of plumbers grease on the solid cable prior to assembly.


We park the trailer at our house so I didn't have any time constraints and overall I probably spent 2 weeks getting this done between taking it apart, figuring out what I needed, ordering stuff and finally installing it. (All of this done in my spare time.) I probably spent more time flushing and tipping the tanks than I did actually working on it.


None of it was hard to do but it required a good bit of lying under the trailer and some gymnastics getting things apart and then back together. In the end I am very glad I did this.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:37 AM   #39
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Drained and flushed all 3 tanks several times, tilted trailer overnight to allow as much as possible to drain. Tilted the trailer as far as possible the other way to keep it from draining, then started working on it.

First I unbolted all 3 valves and all the mounts for the drain pipe then wrestled all three valves out. Then I took the pipe out.

There was a screw in the side up at the top that kept the block in.
There was a strap around the valve I took off allowing me to get to where the cable attached.
There was an Allen screw in the bottom of the block that locked the cable sheath in place.


We bought 3 cables off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and new Orings. (I think we bought the Orings from a local dealer.)

I untwisted the old cables and marked them for the appropriate length then removed them. I followed the Valterra directions for cutting their cables. We marked all 3 cables for where they were going and attached them to the old valves in the reverse order that we took them apart.


I liberally applied plumbers grease to the valves and Orings and very carefully put it all back together. We had also put a liberal amount of plumbers grease on the solid cable prior to assembly.


We park the trailer at our house so I didn't have any time constraints and overall I probably spent 2 weeks getting this done between taking it apart, figuring out what I needed, ordering stuff and finally installing it. (All of this done in my spare time.) I probably spent more time flushing and tipping the tanks than I did actually working on it.


None of it was hard to do but it required a good bit of lying under the trailer and some gymnastics getting things apart and then back together. In the end I am very glad I did this.
Thank for the explanation and the time you put into sharing that with me. I am at the part of "waiting for parts to come im" stage. I will be draining the tanks today, and putting a hose into each toilet and thoroughly draining them. Not sure about tipping the trailer, though i could because I do have the 6 point hydraulic leveling system. I spent 60 bucks on the valve, where I guess I could have just spent 30 bucks on the cable, though it's just chump change anyways. If I read it right, you had to take whole valve out anyway and and attach the cable ect... I think I may fair better off by just easily undoing the 4 bolts and sliding the old valve out and sliding the new valve in with cable attached. We will see.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:38 AM   #40
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And like you, it's at the house so I just have it torn down and waiting for parts. A lot of laying on my back, actually feels kinda of good, almost took a nap bahaha
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