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Old 01-09-2021, 12:16 PM   #21
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IMO I would just use a transfer pump. We recently bought this one https://amzn.to/3nrJ6Jj from Amazon for $160. Iíve used it to pump long runs up to 300í with no problems. Since you donít know how far away from a water source youíll be you want a good strong pump.
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Old 01-10-2021, 06:46 AM   #22
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Liberty 331 Transfer Pump

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Originally Posted by SacRV View Post
IMO I would just use a transfer pump. We recently bought this one https://amzn.to/3nrJ6Jj from Amazon for $160. I’ve used it to pump long runs up to 300’ with no problems. Since you don’t know how far away from a water source you’ll be you want a good strong pump.
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
The other option is using an external pump. I bought a Harbor Freight transfer pump. It's not freshwater safe, but none of us have grown an extra arm yet.
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Just like ependydad and SacRV, I suggest using a standard high-volume, high-pressure, non-potable transfer pump. the pump I use is a Liberty 331 which has a cast aluminum housing. It is 1/2 HP, requires 115VAC and draws 8 amps. It can pump over 1,400 gallons per hour and creates about 50psi. I use the same pump at work for draining water heaters, and it can empty a 100-gallon tank in a matter of a couple of minutes.

While I don’t need it because I don’t have a gravity fill on my RV, I use it for filling my tank at its gravity fill. It would be ideal for your situation because of the pressure it creates as long as you have access to 115VAC.

All I have to do is drop a hose into the fresh water containers in the back of my truck, connect it to the pump wherever I decide to put it (usually on my tailgate) and run the discharge hose to my RV. It fills my tank in a few minutes. It would do the same for you. I bet the Wayne brand pump that SacRV uses works just as well — I just prefer an aluminum housing over a cast iron housing.

Of course this pump is not rated for potable water (just because), but just like ependydad, no harm has come from using this method for many years.

Here’s a link to the Liberty 331 transfer pump at Liberty’s website with all of the details you need to know:

https://www.libertypumps.com/Product/Model-331

Here it is at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Pumps...s%2C179&sr=8-1

EDIT: I reviewed the specifications for the Wayne PC4 pump that SacRV uses and it will perform almost exactly the same as the Liberty 331 pump that I use. The differences between the two are 1/ Liberty Pumps, in general, are better and longer-lasting pumps than Wayne, 2/ the Liberty 331 is all cast aluminum where the Wayne PC4 is all cast iron, 3/ the Liberty 331 meets the requirements of the Buy American Act — the Wayne PC4 does not, 4/ the Wayne PC4 is roughly $50.00 cheaper than the Liberty 331.

Bruce
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Old 01-13-2021, 08:08 AM   #23
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We winter camp in No. NH all the time and this is what we do. I have 40 gal. transfer tank that I fill at the bath house then drive to our trailer and using a 120vac pump, to transfer it directly into our trailer. We do not use the water for coffee or to drink, only for showers and doing dishes. You can buy water at Walmart, 4 gals for $3. It works great for us.
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Old 01-18-2021, 08:28 PM   #24
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Hook a hose to the spigot and then to your water intake. Then turn the lever to tank fill. Turn on the tap and then fill the tank. The lever is the blue lever in this picture above the hose connection.

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/fifth...#lg=1&slide=40
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Old 01-18-2021, 08:34 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by GS1 View Post
Have found several campgrounds that have 30Amp service at the campsite, but no water connection. They say they have water spigots distributed throughout the campground as the water source. We've done that before with our old TT as it had a gravity feed with two 5 gallons portable tanks. The CC's don't have a gravity fill. Does the winterizer hose dropped into a portable tank fill the fresh water tank on the CC? Do I use a threaded connection to the water fill and drop the other end into a portable tank to pump into the fresh water tank? How have you addressed this. Thanks all. GS1.
What year is your CC? Do you have a power fill option in your wet bay? Sanitize function? Use your sanitize function to pump water from a bucket or bladder to your fresh water tank. Easy as easy can be.
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Old 01-18-2021, 08:44 PM   #26
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Already answered!

If you search my post history I've already posted this solution.

My RV had neither winterizing kit nor gravity fill. By using two "add-on winterizing kits" I can now winterize OR fill my fresh tank from a bucket.

The summary is, I use the built in pump to take liquid from an intake hose and deliver it backwards from the pump to the fresh tank. Then revert the valves to "normal" and I can then use the same pump to draw from the fresh tank.
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Old 01-19-2021, 04:31 AM   #27
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I got mine to work

I couldn't get mine to draw the water from the 5 gallon water container and then I discovered that my hose was too long. I cut an old white water hose that I carry as a spare to only the length needed,(3 or 4 FT) I placed it in the water container and placed the water container on a short little camping table on and the water sucked right up and filled my fresh water tank.Make sure you're switched to fresh water tank fill. Morral of the story is shorten your hose.
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Old 01-19-2021, 09:26 AM   #28
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Our camper is older, so no fancy plumbing features.

We leave the house with a full tank(34 gals.).

When that's used up, we refill from a 6 gallon water jug.

I built an adjustable height stand to rest the jug on while pouring.

It takes about 2 minutes to empty.

Rich
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Old 01-19-2021, 11:02 AM   #29
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I use this to obtain water from spigots where no hose hookup is available. Easy to roll around.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reliance-...mpaign_id=9383
I use a pump like this one with fittings adapted on the ends for garden hoses.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Diaphr...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I also have a 30 gallon bladder type water tank to haul water after the trailer is set up. This one is just an example, may be cheaper elsewhere. Nice because it folds up into a box for storage.
https://www.amazon.com/Ivy-Bag-Porta...1071887&sr=8-7
Covers most of my water needs when boondocking. I also have a Water Thief just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Connect...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Have to be careful using it. The NFS campgrounds in Colorado get on you if you try to hook up to the faucets with anything. Never got a ticket, but have been threatened. That's what happens when private contractors take over park management.
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:12 AM   #30
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Our 2021 CC 388RK water hookup is labeled "city" or "RV" at the blue handle. Is the "city" position the same as "gravity" as referred to thruout this thread?
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:16 AM   #31
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City would be the pressure coming in from an external source. Switching the handle to RV would direct water into your fresh water holding tank for use if not connected to city water. It would require your pump being turned on.
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:16 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reg11756 View Post
Our 2021 CC 388RK water hookup is labeled "city" or "RV" at the blue handle. Is the "city" position the same as "gravity" as referred to thruout this thread?
No, just the opposite. City is pressure from the supply pedestals/hydrant. RV is to fill the fresh water tank.
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Old 03-04-2021, 01:24 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
Attachment 245749

Just like ependydad and SacRV, I suggest using a standard high-volume, high-pressure, non-potable transfer pump. the pump I use is a Liberty 331 which has a cast aluminum housing. It is 1/2 HP, requires 115VAC and draws 8 amps. It can pump over 1,400 gallons per hour and creates about 50psi. I use the same pump at work for draining water heaters, and it can empty a 100-gallon tank in a matter of a couple of minutes.

While I donít need it because I donít have a gravity fill on my RV, I use it for filling my tank at its gravity fill. It would be ideal for your situation because of the pressure it creates as long as you have access to 115VAC.

All I have to do is drop a hose into the fresh water containers in the back of my truck, connect it to the pump wherever I decide to put it (usually on my tailgate) and run the discharge hose to my RV. It fills my tank in a few minutes. It would do the same for you. I bet the Wayne brand pump that SacRV uses works just as well ó I just prefer an aluminum housing over a cast iron housing.

Of course this pump is not rated for potable water (just because), but just like ependydad, no harm has come from using this method for many years.

Hereís a link to the Liberty 331 transfer pump at Libertyís website with all of the details you need to know:

https://www.libertypumps.com/Product/Model-331

Here it is at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Pumps...s%2C179&sr=8-1

EDIT: I reviewed the specifications for the Wayne PC4 pump that SacRV uses and it will perform almost exactly the same as the Liberty 331 pump that I use. The differences between the two are 1/ Liberty Pumps, in general, are better and longer-lasting pumps than Wayne, 2/ the Liberty 331 is all cast aluminum where the Wayne PC4 is all cast iron, 3/ the Liberty 331 meets the requirements of the Buy American Act ó the Wayne PC4 does not, 4/ the Wayne PC4 is roughly $50.00 cheaper than the Liberty 331.

Bruce
The links above say the Liberty 331 pump is a potable water pump good for transferring water. Are the links information incorrect and the pump is really a non-potable pump as you indicated?

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