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Old 09-26-2022, 06:04 PM   #1
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Check valve

I just installed a one way check valve in my water line from the pump.
I was informed you should have a one way check valve installed to keep the water pressure off your pump, Since I installed it I have good water pressure on all faucets but when I turn the faucet off the pump still runs but just at a tick tick tick and never shuts off,also if I leave the tank valve turned on water will drip out the city connection. I attached a pic. Any suggestions? Thank youClick image for larger version

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Old 09-26-2022, 06:39 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by mshenygo View Post
I just installed a one way check valve in my water line from the pump.
I was informed you should have a one way check valve installed to keep the water pressure off your pump, Since I installed it I have good water pressure on all faucets but when I turn the faucet off the pump still runs but just at a tick tick tick and never shuts off,also if I leave the tank valve turned on water will drip out the city connection. I attached a pic. Any suggestions? Thank youAttachment 279750
I believe I'd ask the person/site which gave you this info: "I was informed you should have a one way check valve installed to keep the water pressure off your pump". I haven't had such a check valve on any of the 4 trailers I've owned.
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:09 PM   #3
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The check valve is protection for the pump but may not be necessary as there is one in the pump. Your leak at city water connection is a faulty check valve there. They are part of the connection. Replace it, pump will stop.
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Old 09-26-2022, 08:51 PM   #4
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The check valve is protection for the pump but may not be necessary as there is one in the pump. Your leak at city water connection is a faulty check valve there. They are part of the connection. Replace it, pump will stop.
Thank you for the info.
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:31 PM   #5
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Move your inline check valve to the inlet side of the pump.

Your pump is cycling quickly because the pump's built in, internal check valve (yes, the one everyone has mentioned) is leaking and as soon as the pump builds enough pressure to shut off, the check inside the pump leaks and pressure drops enough to come back on.

Moving the check valve to the inlet side will eliminate the pump cycling as the inline check will now stop the bleed off... or... you could simply fix the pump's built in internal check valve.

I too would be interested in who told you that you needed to install the inline check valve to protect your pump?
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:36 PM   #6
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What if I just get rid of the check valve and pretend it never happened. Got the info from a camper where I was camping with the same model camper as mine.
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:45 PM   #7
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What if I just get rid of the check valve and pretend it never happened. Got the info from a camper where I was camping with the same model camper as mine.
Lol… sometimes the internal Check valve in the pump fails or stays open allowing water to back feed into your freshwater tank when connected to city water.

You see posts on here all the time about freshwater tanks overflowing while connected to city water.

This can usually be cleared up by a process of turning on/off spigots..blah, blah.. I don’t remember the exact sequence right now.

Anyway, if that does not stop the back feed to the freshwater tank then add a check valve between the pump and the freshwater tank.
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Old 09-27-2022, 06:36 AM   #8
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What if I just get rid of the check valve and pretend it never happened. Got the info from a camper where I was camping with the same model camper as mine.
You can.

And while you are at it, get some better hose clamps to use with whatever barbed union you plan to install and replace those spring clamps.
That's just a leak waiting to happen.

When on city water, that city water pressure comes all the way back to the pump. (hence the need for a check valve in the pump) and campground pressures can often be very high. Water will blow right past those spring clamps.

I also suggest using a quality inline pressure regulator at the pedestal spigot.
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Old 09-27-2022, 07:02 AM   #9
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I will get better clamps and I do use a regulator when hooked up to city water. Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-27-2022, 08:06 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by mshenygo View Post
I just installed a one way check valve in my water line from the pump.
I was informed you should have a one way check valve installed to keep the water pressure off your pump, Since I installed it I have good water pressure on all faucets but when I turn the faucet off the pump still runs but just at a tick tick tick and never shuts off,also if I leave the tank valve turned on water will drip out the city connection. I attached a pic. Any suggestions? Thank youAttachment 279750
RVers adding a check valve is not uncommon. There is one in the pump, but that quite often fails. A new pump costs 100 dollars plus. A standalone check valve costs around 10 dollars.

Regarding the OPs situation, I would ask if the valve he installed was installed correctly? The valve has an arrow indicating direction of flow and apparently that can be confusing for obvious reasons.

Also, am I the only one who has their pump turned off when on city water?
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Old 09-27-2022, 08:17 AM   #11
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RVers adding a check valve is not uncommon. There is one in the pump, but that quite often fails. A new pump costs 100 dollars plus. A standalone check valve costs around 10 dollars.

Regarding the OPs situation, I would ask if the valve he installed was installed correctly? The valve has an arrow indicating direction of flow and apparently that can be confusing for obvious reasons.

Also, am I the only one who has their pump turned off when on city water?
The pump should not be on when connected to city water.

In fact, there are some indications that if the pump is on and it attempts to run when connected to city water, that is one of the conditions that can cause the check valve to be overcome. (by the city water pressure)

The only time it is even "feasible" to think about supplementing the city water supply with the pump is when LOTS of folks are connected to a spigot like at a rally or fairgrounds/racetrack where dozens of folks could be connected to a single spigot and using water at the same time and the city water connection simply can't keep up. Even then it's better to just put water in the fresh tank, use the pump and disconnect the city water altogether.
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Old 09-27-2022, 12:50 PM   #12
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I decided to just do away with the check valve, since it worked fine before. As they say if it's not broke don't fix it. Thanks for all the info everyone.
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Old 09-27-2022, 12:59 PM   #13
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I decided to just do away with the check valve, since it worked fine before. As they say if it's not broke don't fix it. Thanks for all the info everyone.
Well... you did say the pump would cycle. (tick-tick-tick-your words)
Did the pump not do this before installing the inline check valve?

Does it seem to work properly now that you've removed it?
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Old 09-27-2022, 02:27 PM   #14
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It only started doing it after check valve was put in.
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Old 09-27-2022, 03:39 PM   #15
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It only started doing it after check valve was put in.
I know someone asked previously but are you sure you had the check valve installed correctly? (they only flow one direction)

I know it doesn't matter now that you've removed it but I'm just trying to comprehend why the pump would only have been short cycling after the install and all I can come up with is the valve was backwards.
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Old 09-27-2022, 04:18 PM   #16
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If the valve was in backwards it would not let water come out the faucets would it?
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Old 09-27-2022, 04:46 PM   #17
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Also if u zoom in on the picture u can see the arrow on the valve is pointing in the direction the water leaves the pump
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Old 09-27-2022, 10:28 PM   #18
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This looks to be a similar issue to what I’m experiencing.

For the first year we had our TT (Apex Nano 193BHS), we could run from the tank, or from city connections with no issues.

Somewhere along the line, something happened so that any time I’m connected to city water, I’ve had to reprime the pump to get it running from the fresh tank again.

Tried uninstalling the winterizing bypass to see if that was the problem, didn’t do it. Still went wonky and I’d have to reprime after running from city.

Now I just fill the tank and use the pump even when we have city connection available.

The only thing I can figure is thar the city connection is pushing air or water back to the pump, thus necessitating the reprime. Saw this check valve thread and thought maybe this is worth a try.

Has anyone had a similar experience? I’m tired of climbing into the bunk and doing hunched over maintenance. But I’d like to be able to use city connections when available.

Edit: Sorry, don’t mean to hijack the post. ��
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Old 09-27-2022, 11:09 PM   #19
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Properly operating RV water pumps are self-priming (when there are no leaks on the inlet side.)
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Old 09-28-2022, 06:01 AM   #20
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Also if u zoom in on the picture u can see the arrow on the valve is pointing in the direction the water leaves the pump
The issue I was alluding to regarding that arrow was, what does that arrow signify? By itself, without documentation, it could refer to the pump flow, or, the check flow. There is a video on the WEB where that confusion caused a failure in the system. What else could cause a failure other than a poor install?
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