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Old 07-29-2019, 02:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tcrossan View Post
Our slide come in at an angle too but do not appear that they are contacting the floor. At least no damage yet! Your hot water tank must be like ours in that it has no connection to the InCommand panel. It is on or off based on the position of the breaker or the outside switch on the heater itself.
Our door was also warped. Selling dealer said that's the way they are. Nothing to repair.
I was never able to get the WiFi extender to work. Had it all programmed but then it quit responding to the pings from my phone to further the setup. Not worth the aggravation. Unplugged and stored for a time when I need to be aggravated.
Praying for best result possible on your service request.
I surely hope they can make the In-Command control the hot water heater. That would stink to have such a nice interface that cannot be used to control something as basic as a hot water switch.

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The floor along the tv refrig slide needs routed out. All of you need to get slide slickers. The slickers keep the slides off the Congoleum. They just relieve edge off the floor w the router.

Watch the weights on the slides side to side. That caused one of my edges to hit the floor on the main slide. I probably need to ask Orvan to rout it out also.
The slide out has been hitting the floor since new with nothing loaded. Definitely an adjustment needed and now that the floor is damaged, they'll have to figure out what to do as the flooring appears to be a solid sheet.
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Old 07-29-2019, 04:18 PM   #22
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The IC has the capability to control the W/H but the control panel located in baggage storage on passenger side doesn't have the relays nor the wiring routed from the W/H to the control panel. On my to do list is calling ASA Electronics and discuss with them the required hardware and programming to make it work.
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Old 07-29-2019, 04:27 PM   #23
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jd4010
The IC has the capability to control the W/H but the control panel located in baggage storage on passenger side doesn't have the relays nor the wiring routed from the W/H to the control panel. On my to do list is calling ASA Electronics and discuss with them the required hardware and programming to make it work.
I would be most interested in your findings. One would think it should be relatively simple. But then again, some of the most simple turn out to be the most complicated (at least for me).
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Old 07-29-2019, 04:59 PM   #24
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Jd4010
In practical terms, it would be much easier to just run a wire from the trailer electric panel
To a switch then to W/H
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:37 AM   #25
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I'm working on connecting the WH to the IC panel. Easier to run the wires than back to the inside panel. I plan to add a 12 V AC contactor to the WH AC receptical box behind the docking station when we get back home. The terminal layout is in the IC manual
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:52 AM   #26
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What is the issue with just flipping the rocker switch on, or off, on the water heater? Doesn't anyone go outside anymore? Of course it could be raining or something, I suppose. Not sure I understand, so help me out.
Maybe like me, you just enjoy circuitry and making it your own. I completely get that.
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Old 08-04-2019, 02:43 PM   #27
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Our issue is that we don't run the WH all the time when we are paying for electric or running on 30 Amps. We've been using the breaker as an option for inside on/off switch but I I don't like doing that. This is our 5th RV and the first not to have an inside electric WH switch...including our pop up.
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Old 08-04-2019, 02:45 PM   #28
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...and I do like making and adding gadgetry to our rig. I'm also working on a water flow meter to help with FW tank filling and water usage. Not really needed, but it's on my list.
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:59 PM   #29
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Tcrossan,

What did they find with your 'slow to drain' tanks?
Jim
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:09 AM   #30
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What is the issue with just flipping the rocker switch on, or off, on the water heater? Doesn't anyone go outside anymore? Of course it could be raining or something, I suppose. Not sure I understand, so help me out.
Maybe like me, you just enjoy circuitry and making it your own. I completely get that.
Like @SimchaSabre, all of my previous RVs had some switch inside the camper to turn on/off the hot water heater. I'm not a fan of using breakers to turn things on/off. And yes, there is the switch on the tank but this leads to my biggest reason ----

The IC has on the main page a button for hot water heater and to boot, the IC gives the the choice of propane, electric or both. So if the IC has this functionality, why did FR not use it?

I liken it to an automaker putting a start button on your car yet you still have to use a key and turn it. Why have the button?
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:42 AM   #31
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Most FR brands do. When I talked to Cedar Creek about that while ordering my 34 IK, I got the impression that they didn't see it as an issue because they assumed most people would want the thankless WH.

But... they may be rethinking that. I received a few follow up phone calls from Cedar Creek wanting to know why we did not choose the thankless. At least their asking.
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Old 08-05-2019, 09:16 PM   #32
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Most FR brands do. When I talked to Cedar Creek about that while ordering my 34 IK, I got the impression that they didn't see it as an issue because they assumed most people would want the thankless WH.

But... they may be rethinking that. I received a few follow up phone calls from Cedar Creek wanting to know why we did not choose the thankless. At least their asking.
When we ordered our 2018 CC 36CK2 5th wheel, it came with a tankless WH. The control was in the bath with a digital temperature control that you used to adjust the temperature along with an on/off. The WH switch on the main control panel didn't do anything from what I recall.

After our first trip we had the dealer replace it with a regular 12 gallon WH. Now the WH switch on the main control panel allows the WH to run on propane. (Note - Wish this switch illuminated when on like my old TT had.) If I want to have the WH run on electric then I need to go outside to the WH and turn it on/off there. I would like an additional switch inside at the main control panel that would also control the electrical side of the WH, so I can control both gas/electric mode at the same place.

At least now you get the option now whether WH is tankless or not, unlike us.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:32 PM   #33
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Why can't they just give you a real email address instead of hiding behind a web page. If they need certain information they should just say what they need when sending an email. The web page is just dumping all the messages into a database that they'll check when they get around to it. You can bet your life his real email address is checked continuously so he can be sure he still has a job.
Thank you for the feedback, Daycruiser--we value all suggestions to make this process more convenient for the customer.

Regarding our use of a web link, it does produce direct emails to the representative's inbox. An initial email is sent upon my reply to a customer's post, then an additional email is sent upon the customer's submission of the Direct Service Contact Link. We use a web link in part to track the results and speed of responses.

We are always looking for ways to improve this process, so please keep the feedback coming!

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Old 08-06-2019, 02:09 PM   #34
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If they would use and Atwood WH, instead of the suburban, the switch would be inside, next to the gas switch where it belongs.
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Old 08-06-2019, 11:33 PM   #35
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If they would use and Atwood WH, instead of the suburban, the switch would be inside, next to the gas switch where it belongs.
There's a newer Suburban WH model that has an inside switch for the electric side. A number of FR products come with it.
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Old 10-23-2019, 09:22 PM   #36
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If your door is warped insist on it being replaced.
My 37RL will have its 4th door replaced tomorrow.
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