Dropped tank

[CC38EL]

Anyone know how the grey and black tanks are installed? I think one of mine has dropped.

I have a leak from the middle of the bottom of the front. Right about where the back of the grey bath tank is. The bottom of that area is also bowed down,like something heavy is weighing on it.

I'm pretty sure that area has always been flat.....

[Ford Idaho]

Likely they are just sitting in a 16 gage rectangle with some cheap strapping to hold them in place.

Tank are installed before the floor goes on the frame.

You should be able to remove the bottom cover (coroplast?)under the bulge, just be sure to watch out for the down pour..

[SilverbackMel]

If the BLACK is the issue, ensure you protect your face and any open wounds to ward off any bacterial infection. You likely do not know per your issue "guess".

I had a black tank issue under warranty on my 2015. Had "mobile" rv repair guys decline. I assume their experience is the reason 💩. Gives real meaning to: you are full of crap!😂

[BandJCarm]

I had more than a leak there. Total compromise. It was a six inch piece of ABS that goes between the tank and the discharge tube. It was not stuck in 'tight' and was loose and allowing a leak.

[FrankG]

A couple of weeks ago we were at the CC factory. The bottom panels are in sections and removable for service. They are not coroplast. There are Videos on U-tube detailing the construction of CC fifth wheel units.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJVfo7yS_Rg

If I cannot remember if there is insulation between the bottom panels and the tanks. The tanks are assembled on site with spin welded fittings? if I remember correctly.

[Mr Havercamp]

They usually just hang on a frame crossmember on one side and a removable spreader bar on the other or two spreader bars. The black and gray tanks typically have a ledge formed around the top that sits on those channels. They drop the tank in before sitting the floor on the frame. Fresh-water tanks are usually mounted differently. The only way I have seen a black or gray tank come loose is if the spreader fails or fasteners at the ends of a spreader bar snap or come loose. They usually just use small tek screws to attach them to the frame rail.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

I had more than a leak there. Total compromise. It was a six inch piece of ABS that goes between the tank and the discharge tube. It was not stuck in 'tight' and was loose and allowing a leak.

FR typically uses polyethylene black and gray tanks. They have benefits and drawbacks the same as everything else. The benefit is they're less prone to cold cracking, the drawbacks are fittings need to be spin welded on because nothing will permanently adhere ABS or PVC to polyethylene long term, heat welding is the only 100% sure way to repair one, and the outlet connection is simply "pressure fit". That connection is made by using gun grade butyl sealant and a hose clamp where the 3" ABS connects to the tank. If the ABS piping is allowed to move slightly as is often the case in RV's with the minimal amount of hangers used, over time that connection can work itself loose.

Here is a cut of an Apha Sysytems poly tank. Rockwood uses these and I would guess other FR brands also. It shows the outlet stub that is pressure fit to the 3" ABS. It also shows the flange molded around the top of the tank that they use to hang the tank from cross-members and/or spreader bars.

[CC38EL]

Thanks. Got some work to do today.

[spock123]

I have been putting off fixing my black water tank valve for some time, it's always leaked some but it has gotten worse.


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[CC38EL]

Well, color me silly. Came out of the RV yesterday morning and looked under the rig. No bow, no drip, the bottom was almost flat again. Crawled under the rig and pushed on the panels. No drips, no pressure, only thing I felt was the tank in its correct position. What?????

Decided to get assistance from CC before I did anything, because as you know, any 5 minute job takes 2 weeks once you start. So I fired off a phone call and email asking for guidance.

While waiting, I decided to relevel the rig. Pulled in the slides, removed the Xchocks and retracted the jacks. Ran auto level. Put out the slides, put in the Xchocks and crawled under the rig. Again, no bow, no pressure on the panels, no drip, didn't hear any liquid movement at all.

Only thing I can figure is I did this to myself. About 10 days ago, I decided to tweak the level. I raised the front a bit and the left side. Not much, just a touch. Maybe I contorted the underbelly, taking the flex out of the panels and flexed the grey tank hose connection enough to allow a drip. I don't know. Maybe I should have removed the Xchocks.

Intend to discuss this with CC when they contact me. But at this time, it's like it never happened.

However, if I did do this by tweaking the level, then I have a concern. With synchronized jacks, I shouldn't be flexing the frame as the jacks move in unison, not independently. And I can't think of why the Xchocks would have an impact on the underbelly when lifting or lowering because the suspension is able to still move.

In the meantime, still keeping an eye on tank levels and monitoring the underbelly panels. Since there aren't any leaks, and I don't want to expose the underbelly, I'm not taking the panels out. The guys in the video make it look easy.....but easy is not in my vocabulary.

Thanks for all your info and suggestions.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by CC38EL

Well, color me silly. Came out of the RV yesterday morning and looked under the rig. No bow, no drip, the bottom was almost flat again. Crawled under the rig and pushed on the panels. No drips, no pressure, only thing I felt was the tank in its correct position. What?????

Decided to get assistance from CC before I did anything, because as you know, any 5 minute job takes 2 weeks once you start. So I fired off a phone call and email asking for guidance.

While waiting, I decided to relevel the rig. Pulled in the slides, removed the Xchocks and retracted the jacks. Ran auto level. Put out the slides, put in the Xchocks and crawled under the rig. Again, no bow, no pressure on the panels, no drip, didn't hear any liquid movement at all.

Only thing I can figure is I did this to myself. About 10 days ago, I decided to tweak the level. I raised the front a bit and the left side. Not much, just a touch. Maybe I contorted the underbelly, taking the flex out of the panels and flexed the grey tank hose connection enough to allow a drip. I don't know. Maybe I should have removed the Xchocks.

Intend to discuss this with CC when they contact me. But at this time, it's like it never happened.

However, if I did do this by tweaking the level, then I have a concern. With synchronized jacks, I shouldn't be flexing the frame as the jacks move in unison, not independently. And I can't think of why the Xchocks would have an impact on the underbelly when lifting or lowering because the suspension is able to still move.

In the meantime, still keeping an eye on tank levels and monitoring the underbelly panels. Since there aren't any leaks, and I don't want to expose the underbelly, I'm not taking the panels out. The guys in the video make it look easy.....but easy is not in my vocabulary.

Thanks for all your info and suggestions.

The frames flex more than most people realize independent of the body/box....they have to.

[Jim34RL]

Originally Posted by CC38EL

Well, color me silly. Came out of the RV yesterday morning and looked under the rig. No bow, no drip, the bottom was almost flat again. Crawled under the rig and pushed on the panels. No drips, no pressure, only thing I felt was the tank in its correct position. What?????

Decided to get assistance from CC before I did anything, because as you know, any 5 minute job takes 2 weeks once you start. So I fired off a phone call and email asking for guidance.

While waiting, I decided to relevel the rig. Pulled in the slides, removed the Xchocks and retracted the jacks. Ran auto level. Put out the slides, put in the Xchocks and crawled under the rig. Again, no bow, no pressure on the panels, no drip, didn't hear any liquid movement at all.

Only thing I can figure is I did this to myself. About 10 days ago, I decided to tweak the level. I raised the front a bit and the left side. Not much, just a touch. Maybe I contorted the underbelly, taking the flex out of the panels and flexed the grey tank hose connection enough to allow a drip. I don't know. Maybe I should have removed the Xchocks.

Intend to discuss this with CC when they contact me. But at this time, it's like it never happened.

However, if I did do this by tweaking the level, then I have a concern. With synchronized jacks, I shouldn't be flexing the frame as the jacks move in unison, not independently. And I can't think of why the Xchocks would have an impact on the underbelly when lifting or lowering because the suspension is able to still move.

In the meantime, still keeping an eye on tank levels and monitoring the underbelly panels. Since there aren't any leaks, and I don't want to expose the underbelly, I'm not taking the panels out. The guys in the video make it look easy.....but easy is not in my vocabulary.

Thanks for all your info and suggestions.

I would get rid of the X-Chocks in my humble opinion. Why?

When installed the X-Chocks prevent wheel/tire movement of any kind. I watch my wheels/tires the first time as I did the auto level on my Cedar Creek trailer. Watching the wheel/tires move as the trailer goes through the leveling motion; at least on my trailer. I figured that this would bind the wheels/tires and causing the axle to twist plus the suspension, so I do not install my x-chocks.
Try leveling the trailer without X-chocks in the future and see what happens to your wheel/tire movement as the trailer auto levels. I have a set in my basement of my home not being used at all. I now use regular wheel chocks when setting up.

[270S]

I don't know if this is your problem, but I suggest all be aware of what I discovered and my solution regarding support, hose, tank, failures.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-a-115528.html

Originally Posted by 270S

[DJNCJ]

Originally Posted by Jim34RL

I would get rid of the X-Chocks in my humble opinion. Why?

When installed the X-Chocks prevent wheel/tire movement of any kind. I watch my wheels/tires the first time as I did the auto level on my Cedar Creek trailer. Watching the wheel/tires move as the trailer goes through the leveling motion; at least on my trailer. I figured that this would bind the wheels/tires and causing the axle to twist plus the suspension, so I do not install my x-chocks.
Try leveling the trailer without X-chocks in the future and see what happens to your wheel/tire movement as the trailer auto levels. I have a set in my basement of my home not being used at all. I now use regular wheel chocks when setting up.

I noticed this too. I wait to install my x-chocks until its finished leveling and remove them prior to changing level or retracting. I do use them, however.

[CC38EL]

Lesson learned.

[CC38EL]

Well, color me kinda po'ed.

I'm washing clothes, with both grey tank valves open and washer spews out some water from the drain. Take a look and don't see anything blocking the drain. Check the tank levels and 'black' tank is full. Interesting, because I know the drain goes into the grey tank. You can see it in the front compartment.

I go outside and make sure both grey valves are working and I don't feel anything loose or binding. While troubleshooting, I hear a big bang, like a gunshot, and now I have the bulge in the bottom and this time I can't push it up. Drain black tank and it drains for quite some time.

Confused, I close all the valves and fill up the black tank 1/4 of the way. Pull the black tank valve handle and NOTHING. Hmm...pull the Bath tank and lo and behold the tank empties a bunch of liquid. The black and the bath valves are REVERSED!!!!! The level indicators are also reversed. Repeated the test with the same results.

I have no idea what busted inside. Pulled the bottom panels off and looked into a bunch of insulation. Fortunately, no leaks. Now to get it repaired. Geez.

[kinzoo]

Why don't you just change the labels on the valves....
That happened to a friend of mine, they had the valves labeled wrong.

[CC38EL]

I will change the labels, but there is something busted where the tank is hanging. That was a really loud bang. Like something let go.

[rockfordroo]

And you're under warranty - make'm fix it.