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Old 05-10-2019, 07:54 PM   #1
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Fridge not switching to AC

I am thinking my fridge is not switching to AC in auto mode. Both lights are on as it shows in the picture. I plugged in a hair dryer to check the plug and it worked. So thats not the problem. Any other ideas what to look for?Click image for larger version

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Old 05-10-2019, 08:07 PM   #2
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I am thinking my fridge is not switching to AC in auto mode. Both lights are on as it shows in the picture. I plugged in a hair dryer to check the plug and it worked. So thats not the problem. Any other ideas what to look for?Attachment 204265
Turn off your gas , then see what happens,
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:11 PM   #3
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Check the glass fuse on the control board on the back of the fridge. I had the same issue and my read out looked the same.

Turns out the fuse holder tabs were loose and not holding the glass fuse tightly. It heated up (from poor connection) and melted the solder inside the fuse.

Looking at the fuse, it looked good but testing with a meter, it showed open.

I replaced the fuse and all was well.

Mine quit at some point during an auto switch from AC to LP. We left to go on a trip and the fridge didn't work on AC when we arrived and plugged back in to shore power.

I checked many automotive stores for a fuse but none fit. (It's short) I finally found one at CW. (Camping World)
Thankfully it continued to work on LP while searching for a replacement fuse.

I bent the fuse holder tabs tighter together when replacing the fuse and it has never happened again in 2 years.

BTW... there is a 5 amp automotive style fuse on the control board as well. That is for the 12v side of the controls.
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:32 PM   #4
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Ask for a 2AG fuse in the amperage needed. 3AG is the typical length fuse we're used to seeing.
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Old 05-10-2019, 08:40 PM   #5
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Turned off gas and started flashing LP
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:55 PM   #6
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Could also be electric heating element is bad.
Only way to tell is disconnect power from element, connect a meter to element and check for ohm reading to see it is any good. Then check for 120 volts at plug feeding element once power is turned back on and fridge is calling for a. Once it switches to LP, you'll have to recycle power to test again.

Hope this makes since and helps.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:41 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Check the glass fuse on the control board on the back of the fridge. I had the same issue and my read out looked the same.

Turns out the fuse holder tabs were loose and not holding the glass fuse tightly. It heated up (from poor connection) and melted the solder inside the fuse.

Looking at the fuse, it looked good but testing with a meter, it showed open.

I replaced the fuse and all was well.

Mine quit at some point during an auto switch from AC to LP. We left to go on a trip and the fridge didn't work on AC when we arrived and plugged back in to shore power.

I checked many automotive stores for a fuse but none fit. (It's short) I finally found one at CW. (Camping World)
Thankfully it continued to work on LP while searching for a replacement fuse.

I bent the fuse holder tabs tighter together when replacing the fuse and it has never happened again in 2 years.

BTW... there is a 5 amp automotive style fuse on the control board as well. That is for the 12v side of the controls.
Thanks for your help the fuse was the problem. My last question is I cant find a 5 amp fuse but I do have a 7.5 amp fuse. Will it be ok to use it instead of a 5amp?
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:08 AM   #8
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Thanks for your help the fuse was the problem. My last question is I cant find a 5 amp fuse but I do have a 7.5 amp fuse. Will it be ok to use it instead of a 5amp?
Glad you solved the issue.

I too had trouble finding a fuse and the earlier suggestion of requesting a 2AG fuse didn't help as it seems this fuse is something of it's own.

I found a fuse that fit at CW (also 7.5 amp) and used that until I found some on the 'net that were the same number/amperage as the one in there from original.

I'll look back and see if I can find where I ordered from and edit if I do.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:36 AM   #9
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Guessed at the 2ag size duh. Google 1 aga 5 amp fuse and see if this is the right size.
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:07 AM   #10
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If I remember right those are 5mm X 20mm fuses. Smaller diameter than standard AGA fuses.
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:26 PM   #11
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Thankyou everyone for all the fantastic help. I picked up the proper fuse at my local RV service dealer. Will be heading out to our place on Thursday and will replace the fuse.
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:33 PM   #12
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Thankyou everyone for all the fantastic help. I picked up the proper fuse at my local RV service dealer. Will be heading out to our place on Thursday and will replace the fuse.

Did you get a couple spares......just in case this starts to become a common occurance?
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:42 PM   #13
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Yep sure did thanks
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:14 PM   #14
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Glad you got it fixed.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:31 PM   #15
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Glad you got it fixed.
This site is awesome Im not into Facebook or other sites. But on FROG I know I am getting honest and fantastic help and information.
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Check the glass fuse on the control board on the back of the fridge. I had the same issue and my read out looked the same.

Turns out the fuse holder tabs were loose and not holding the glass fuse tightly. It heated up (from poor connection) and melted the solder inside the fuse.

Looking at the fuse, it looked good but testing with a meter, it showed open.

I replaced the fuse and all was well.

Mine quit at some point during an auto switch from AC to LP. We left to go on a trip and the fridge didn't work on AC when we arrived and plugged back in to shore power.

I checked many automotive stores for a fuse but none fit. (It's short) I finally found one at CW. (Camping World)
Thankfully it continued to work on LP while searching for a replacement fuse.

I bent the fuse holder tabs tighter together when replacing the fuse and it has never happened again in 2 years.

BTW... there is a 5 amp automotive style fuse on the control board as well. That is for the 12v side of the controls.
5picker I owe you a BIG thankyou. I replaced the fuse yesterdsy afternoon and it blew an hour later. Thanks to your info I replaced it again and squeezed the clips together and now no issues.
So you probably saved me a trip to the dealer. Thank you.
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Old 05-18-2019, 12:58 PM   #17
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5picker I owe you a BIG thankyou. I replaced the fuse yesterdsy afternoon and it blew an hour later. Thanks to your info I replaced it again and squeezed the clips together and now no issues.
So you probably saved me a trip to the dealer. Thank you.
You are more than welcome.
That's what these forums are all about, helping others through our experiences.

I hope squeezing the tabs solves your issue for good. It did mine.

Enjoy!
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:19 PM   #18
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So guilty of talking to early..fuse blew again yesterday. I have a 7.5 amp fuse that us as little thicker so I put that in. See how it goes. I have a couple friends that are electricians and they said tje 7.5 amp will be ok
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Old 05-21-2019, 04:58 PM   #19
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5picker, did you ever find where you ordered your replacement fuses from? Seems like I should also carry a spare or two.

Thanks.

Mike
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:52 PM   #20
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refridgerator not working on propane

I'm a newby to RVing. Im packing my RV at my house, power on ( using adapter to reduce from 50 amp to house voltage for lights and refrigerator). All is well food is cold, I unplug the power cord, open valves on propane tanks. When I got to my location freezer is starting to thaw. Am I doing something wrong?
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