Hydraulic Pump not working

Gsykora · 04-15-2018, 04:19 PM

I've got a 2017 CC36CK2 and the hydraulic pump is not working. I've got the trailer connected to my truck right now and I can't even get it offloaded because the levelers won't come down. When I push the leveler extend or retract buttons, I hear a click sound in the area of the pump but the pump doesn't come on (same if I try to activate the slides). I looked at all the breakers located in the breaker cabinet (inside the trailer below the control panel) and everything looks fine. I opened up the panel behind the inverter and the pump and found 2 inline fuses that I check - both checked out fine. Is there another breaker for this pump someplace? There's a large white switch next to the pump, not sure what it's for? I should have taken some pictures but was so frustrated at the time, I completely forgot. Any ideas?

lowbubba · 04-15-2018, 04:25 PM

First rule of camping is to slow down and take a deep breath. Then jump up and down.
We have a Silverback, so I’m hoping it will be the same.
Open up front compartment, in the very back, right hand side there should be a bunch of wiring go to a vertical wiring block. Feel on both sides of it. There should be a couple of micro Circuit breakers. They are tiny! If you can feel one, push it in and try again. The white switch is for opening and closing the slides from the outside.

DJNCJ · 04-15-2018, 04:28 PM

You will find (I think they are called mini breakers) located on the back wall of your front compartment. They will be behind the plastic circular pull away panel on your right side as looking in the bay. I believe the reset buttons will be found on the left side of these breakers.

Hope this helps!

Gsykora · 04-15-2018, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJNCJ

You will find (I think they are called mini breakers) located on the back wall of your front compartment. They will be behind the plastic circular pull away panel on your right side as looking in the bay. I believe the reset buttons will be found on the left side of these breakers.

Hope this helps!

Doug - thanks for the info. I did pull away the circular cover and looked at the birds nest of wiring back there. I found the 2 inline fuses, but didn't see anything that looked like a breaker. I'll hit up Google and see if I can find a picture of what I should be looking for.
Thanks

Gsykora · 04-15-2018, 04:42 PM

Found another post on the forum that may help me (plus it had pictures). This pic shows the "mini breakers" and the little yellow circles show the buttons that need to be checked/reset. I did see this on my trailer, but didn't even realize there were any buttons on it. I'll have to go back up tomorrow and check it out. Also, I need to double check the batteries to make sure they're fully charged as that seems to be another issue with the pump not running.

Gsykora · 04-15-2018, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsykora

Found another post on the forum that may help me (plus it had pictures). This pic shows the "mini breakers" and the little yellow circles show the buttons that need to be checked/reset. I did see this on my trailer, but didn't even realize there were any buttons on it. I'll have to go back up tomorrow and check it out. Also, I need to double check the batteries to make sure they're fully charged as that seems to be another issue with the pump not running.

Here's an even better picture of the breaker reset buttons. Definitely easy to miss. I'm hoping that's all it is. Will check tomorrow.

Outlaw24 · 04-15-2018, 07:10 PM

Also follow all those heavy gauge wires to their final termination and make certain that they are securely fastened to the terminals with a good connection. I found my wires were so loose I could turn the terminal nuts by hand so suffient current was not getting through. I heard the same clicking you described. Good luck!

Sandpiper15 · 04-15-2018, 07:21 PM

Just had the same problem this weekend! Finally talked to a technician from good Sam and he put us right on it !!! Those breakers are a bear to find.

dieselguy · 04-15-2018, 08:53 PM

There is a way to manually extend / retract your landing gear legs. You need a cordless drill, a 1/4" allen bit, and a 5/32" allen wrench. Read your manual on how to do this. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...ers_Manual.pdf Page 10.

Or ... touch either of the big terminals on the reversing solenoid on top of your pump motor with a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery. This will also get you bye. The pump motor runs one way to retract and the opposite way to extend ... just touch the jumper cable to either terminal to see which one does what.

Azdigs · 04-16-2018, 08:36 AM

Go into the control cabinet inside and re-set it on the control panel.

DJNCJ · 04-16-2018, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsykora

Found another post on the forum that may help me (plus it had pictures). This pic shows the "mini breakers" and the little yellow circles show the buttons that need to be checked/reset. I did see this on my trailer, but didn't even realize there were any buttons on it. I'll have to go back up tomorrow and check it out. Also, I need to double check the batteries to make sure they're fully charged as that seems to be another issue with the pump not running.

I had a heck of a time finding those breakers the first time! Hard to see under the "buss bar"!

I'm pretty sure you will be up and running again real soon!

I have heard that auto parts stores will usually carry those breakers if you want to pick up a spare.

Gsykora · 04-16-2018, 10:34 AM

Thanks everyone for all the help. Drove up to the storage place this morning, opened the front storage, and reset the mini-breakers. Bam, up and running again. Now for the next problem. Our Android tablet control panel on/off button is broken and I can't get the unit on, so I can't remove the landing gear error. I can move the front legs up and down the the remote, but it doesn't control the 2 sets of stabilizer jacks. Looks like another warranty item for FR. Hope they can get this fixed quickly because we are scheduled to leave for a 35 day trip starting in May.

Larry-NC · 04-16-2018, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsykora

Here's an even better picture of the breaker reset buttons. Definitely easy to miss. I'm hoping that's all it is. Will check tomorrow.

That picture is not a breaker. That's a one-time 10-amp fuse in an "inline" fuse holder. Extract the green fuse. There will be a wire in it, formed into an S-shape. If there's a gap in the wire, replace with a new fuse, available at any auto parts store.

Larry

DJNCJ · 04-16-2018, 07:26 PM

(Photo from post #6)

The three gray boxes at the far left side of the picture are what is being referenced not the red fuse holder. The copper buss bar on the left is supplying power into each breaker. The breakers have two studs. Two of the breakers are connected to two different buss bars and the bottom pictured breaker is on the left side buss bar (one stud) and wires off the other.

Those breakers are cleverly disguised!

Gsykora · 04-16-2018, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJNCJ

(Photo from post #6)

The three gray boxes at the far left side of the picture are what is being referenced not the red fuse holder. The copper buss bar on the left is supplying power into each breaker. The breakers have two studs. Two of the breakers are connected to two different buss bars and the bottom pictured breaker is on the left side buss bar (one stud) and wires off the other.

Those breakers are cleverly disguised!

Yes, that is what I was showing, not the red fuse holder. Thanks

TandSH · 04-18-2018, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gsykora

Thanks everyone for all the help. Drove up to the storage place this morning, opened the front storage, and reset the mini-breakers. Bam, up and running again. Now for the next problem. Our Android tablet control panel on/off button is broken and I can't get the unit on, so I can't remove the landing gear error. I can move the front legs up and down the the remote, but it doesn't control the 2 sets of stabilizer jacks. Looks like another warranty item for FR. Hope they can get this fixed quickly because we are scheduled to leave for a 35 day trip starting in May.

Install the OneControl app on your smart phone to substitute for the broken "tablet" in the camper. Use it to clear the fault condition and you're back in business.

Gsykora · 04-18-2018, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TandSH

Install the OneControl app on your smart phone to substitute for the broken "tablet" in the camper. Use it to clear the fault condition and you're back in business.

That was my first thought also. However, I can't find the sticker in the trailer that has the wifi password on it. I even asked FR when I had them on the phone and they said they don't have it, that I had to find the wireless hub and it would be on the hub. Not sure where it's at, but I'll have to keep looking.

TandSH · 04-18-2018, 09:10 AM

The hub is most likely in the top of the entry closet, at least that's where it is in our trailer. The password is veryobvious when you find the hub.

Gsykora · 04-18-2018, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TandSH

The hub is most likely in the top of the entry closet, at least that's where it is in our trailer. The password is veryobvious when you find the hub.

That's what FR customer service told me also. Our's isn't in there, so I'll have to look around still. Thanks

SlowrideHD · 04-23-2018, 12:42 PM

Well, I finally figured out my trouble. My hydraulic pump motor has been kicking out repeatedly while running slides in or out and also extending or retracting the levelup jacks. I went to the trouble of pulling my hydraulic pump motor off, disassembling it, cleaning everything and putting it back together. It was always the same breaker that would trip and I would have to reset it.

Today, I pulled the breaker out and discovered that the way my CC bus strip is wired, they have stacked two of the 24vdc, 50 amp breakers on top of each other with a small copper bus strip connecting the output side of the two breakers. So actually, they have the current load for the pump motor shared between the two 50 amp breakers. The pump motor would run with one of the breakers but not the other. The one breaker that it would not run with (when they were in the circuit singly) did not show that it was tripped with the little button sticking out. Neither did it check as an open circuit with an ohm meter. But clearly, one of the breakers was not functioning.

This caused all the current load to flow through one 50 amp breaker instead of the load being shared across two breakers. By the way, my clamp on dc amp probe meter would show a running current of 55-72 amps while operating. So I'll replace both breakers since the one that has been tripping so often is probably a bit weak now.

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