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Old 01-28-2020, 06:48 AM   #21
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ditto on what bikendan said above! if the converter is running the battery indicator lights will show 100% charge. they are reporting the output voltage from the converter, not the actual battery status. the batteries could be nearly discharged and the converter output voltage will cause the lights to show 100%. even a meter on the battery terminals will show around 13.6 volts or more if the converter is providing power. to measure actual battery voltage you have to remove any charging voltages from the converter, solar, or tow vehicle.
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Old 01-28-2020, 08:01 AM   #22
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A built in battery monitor is a good investment.

Why they do not have them is a mystery to me.

For $40 the battery condition is easy.

You have an issue. There is something wrong somewhere!

Bad battery, connections, converter, bad cord ,etc.

You have to simplify.

It takes 48 hours to fully charge a battery with little draw on it.

Put an adapter to 15 amps on the rv and plug in a quality 100’ extension cord into a 15 amp outlet. Let the rv charge 48 hours. Then disconnect. Have lunch. Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. About 12.6.

How old and what size is the battery? I would want two six volts, 200 amps. A single cheap old marine battery is not a good plan. Batteries are important. More is better. Operating slides uses a ton of amps.

All battery connections should be clean.

A 8 amp wire extension cord with 15 amp ends is not a good plan. With an adapters on either end is a problem. Like a fire.

Do you have an ems? A good idea.
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Old 01-28-2020, 08:41 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by dallasrules View Post
Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. We have shore power and the battery is fully charged. Here is what I think happened and what we did to get things going.

First, I think there were some things drawing power from the battery on the trip home which left the battery partially drained to start with. (We are now aware of the battery disconnect switch) Then I think putting the slides out wiped it out. Second, I think the 15 house plugs on my cord were causing issues. I rewired with 30 amp plugs. I have a 50' rv cord coming tomorrow. We now have shore power and the battery is now reading 100% charged.

Along the way, I have come up with new questions, but those are for other posts.
Your tow vehicle (TV) should have kept the battery from draining, unless it was a very large load. Check the aux power supply from your TV. Put a 12VDC light or a voltmeter across pins #1 and #4 (see pic below). Note that your TV MAY turn this aux power on/off with the ignition, so you may need to have the TV running.

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Also be aware that SOME TV's don't come with the aux power pin actually connected to anything (like my 2009 Silverado). You have to hook it up and insert a fuse.

And finally, this aux power doesn't supply a lot of current, as it's a fairly small gauge wire running a long distance; but over a normal days towing, it should at least keep the existing charge on the battery (unless, as I said above, you left a very large load ON).
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Old 02-04-2020, 07:38 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by PatrickY View Post
I'm not an electrician, so I might be talking out my butthole, but … if your ped only has 15 amp outlets I would question two things: 1) what amp breaker is running that circuit and what else is on that circuit; and 2) what gage wire is powering the 15 amp outlets?

My understanding (which could be wrong) is that if you attempt to draw 30 amps through too small of a gage wire the wire will overheat and potentially start a fire unless the breaker cuts off.

Don't know about where you live, but building code for me won't allow running a 20 or 30 amp breaker unless everything downstream is 20 or 30 amp rated.

Again, I'm not an electrician, but it might be worth looking into.
Patriky you are not in a bad direction with your thoughts, a 15a circuit will use a 14 gauge wire and will or should be on a 15 am breaker. a lot of time the device (plug) is cheeped out on is technically only rated for 15 amp, not the end of the world but it will fail prematurely when continuously over loaded. a 20amp circuit will be using a 12 gauge wire, a 30 amp will use a 10 gauge, unless you specifically run a 30 a line there will not be one. Now depending on your home and when it was built and who may have pretended to be an electrician along way the way you may have a mess of improper wiring, best thing to do if you are unsure is to pay the few dollars and have your house checked out by a licensed and reputable electrician and then have a 30 amp dedicated line set up for your camper. This may sound like a lot of waisted money but put it this way, what is your family, home and everything worth to you.
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