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Old 01-19-2015, 07:18 AM   #1
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No Hot Water - Please help

I have a 2014 32RL Cedar Creek. This is our maiden voyage with this unit. I cannot figure out how to turn on the water heater. There is an on/off switch on the front of the water heater which I have turned to "on". Inside the RV there is a DSI / FLT switch which I have on DSI. There is a second red switch which is marked tank heater that I assume is to use propane to heat water (I have tried that turned on and off with no luck). I have checked the breaker - it is fine. Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:22 AM   #2
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Are you sure there's water in the tank?
How did you check if so?
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:24 AM   #3
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Are you sure there's water in the tank?
How did you check if so?

yes, I am sure. I turned on the hot water inside the rv to check
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:26 AM   #4
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yes, I am sure. I turned on the hot water inside the rv to check
Unfortunately if the wh is bypassed you'll get water at faucets but there will be no water in tank.
The ONLY way to check for water in the tank is by opening the pressure relief valve outside.
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:36 AM   #5
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There are wh bypass valves behind your wh and if they are bypassed for winterizing no water goes into tank and you'll still get water at the tap making you think that it's coming from wh.
If you didn't have water in the tank you probably burnt out the electric element.
Evidently the dealer did not show you this?
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:38 AM   #6
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As Turbs says check your by-pass valves behind water heater...here's another thread that shows valves

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ter-74037.html
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbbarker194 View Post
I have a 2014 32RL Cedar Creek. This is our maiden voyage with this unit. I cannot figure out how to turn on the water heater. There is an on/off switch on the front of the water heater which I have turned to "on". Inside the RV there is a DSI / FLT switch which I have on DSI. There is a second red switch which is marked tank heater that I assume is to use propane to heat water (I have tried that turned on and off with no luck). I have checked the breaker - it is fine. Any ideas?

Thanks.
If you have a Suburban water heater this FAQ may help in the operation of the propane and separate electric heating element sides:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

As others have pointed out, if your hot water tank is in the winterization bypass mode, with the valves set to by pass the water heater.....then the cold water line is currently merged into the hot water line, and the water heater itself has been bypassed.....and there is no water in it. Everything coming out of the hot water line tap is, really just the cold water line.

EDIT: Here is a pic of how you want your bypass valves to be. The cold water inlet and hot water outlet valves are open (handles turned parallel with lines), and the bypass line valve closed (handle turned perpendicular to the line). It's also possible you may only have one or two valves instead of the 3 pictured.



To make sure there is water in the heater itself, go outside to the water heater and flip up the pressure relief valve lever (near the top of the heater) and see if water comes out.

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Old 01-19-2015, 08:01 AM   #8
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All valves set correctly. My bypass valves are in the utility compartment along with a drawing of the correct setup.
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:08 AM   #9
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Do not turn on the water heater switch until you know the tank is full of water...if you have the polar package the tank heater switch is to warm your storage tanks and valves....so that should be off unless freezing temps are encountered...the switch with the red light next to it is for propane to heat your water tank....the red light should go off after the propane ignites....there should be a 110v on off switch on the front of the heater thru the outside access....there should also be a reset push to set button on the element area....and the 110 v should be also on the circuit breaker panel on the inside....FILL THE WATER HEATER UNTIL WATER SPURTS OUT OF THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE....BEFORE YOU TURN ON ANYTHING....good luck...
propane and electric can be used separate or together.....in order to see what is working use one then the other.....to heat water after tank is full....
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:08 AM   #10
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Unfortunately if the wh is bypassed you'll get water at faucets but there will be no water in tank.
The ONLY way to check for water in the tank is by opening the pressure relief valve outside.
Did you Open the relief valve yet? Youroo!!
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:08 AM   #11
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As Turbs already said, did you check to make sure water is in the tank by opening the pressure relief valve?

Let’s get the issue of the red switch that says tank heater out of the way. That switch turns on the 12 volt heating pads on your holding tanks and has nothing to do with the water heater. The purpose is to help keep your holding tanks from freezing in cold temperature.

Since this is your maiden voyage there is a high probability that you don’t have water in the water heater. If there isn’t any water in the tank and you turned on/off switch on the outside of the water heater you have probably burned out the element and it will have to be replaced. This was the electric option for heating water.

You can still get hot water using the propane option of the water heater. That would be the black switch with the word water above it and heater below it. Turn on the propane to your trailer by opening the valve on your propane tank. Purge the air out of the propane gas line by lighting a burner on the stove. If this is the first time you’ve used the stove it might take a minute to purge the air. When I do this I turn on the stove burner and then hold a flame to it until it lights.

Once you have propane in the line turn on the water heater switch. After a couple of seconds the DSI/FLT light will come on and stay on while the DSI tries to light the burner on the water heater. Once the water heater ignites the DSI/FLT should go out. If there is water in the water heater you’ll have hot water in about 15 minutes.

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Old 01-19-2015, 08:23 AM   #12
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Have you had time to read the link I added in post # 7?
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:16 AM   #13
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I think you all have identified the problem. I think I had a bypass valve set incorrectly. I had all valves open and based on the photos you all sent I see that one valve between the hot water lines and cold water lines needs to be closed. I am waiting to see if the water gets hot now. Thanks - will let you know the results.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:17 AM   #14
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It happens.
Good luck.
make sure you open the pressure relief valve to purge the air.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:18 AM   #15
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Thanks so much for the info about the red switch inside and what the dsi switch does. The problem is solved thanks so much - I can take a shower now!!!!
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:03 AM   #16
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Glad the OP got his hot water working!

I just had to comment on the photo of the bypass valves.

Just talking about the middle valve here--
The white text in the photo is miss-leading. It says the valves are shown in the "normal" positions. That is correct for hot water.
It also says to --close the bypass valve-- when winterizing.
That is not correct. As we know you open the center valve when winterizing so the pink stuff can bypass the WH tank and close it in summer so water has to pass thru the tank.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post

EDIT: Here is a pic of how you want your bypass valves to be. The cold water inlet and hot water outlet valves are open (handles turned parallel with lines), and the bypass line valve closed (handle turned perpendicular to the line). It's also possible you may only have one or two valves instead of the 3 pictured.



To make sure there is water in the heater itself, go outside to the water heater and flip up the pressure relief valve lever (near the top of the heater) and see if water comes out.

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Old 01-19-2015, 10:18 AM   #17
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Glad the OP got his hot water working!

I just had to comment on the photo of the bypass valves.

Just talking about the middle valve here--
The white text in the photo is miss-leading. It says the valves are shown in the "normal" positions. That is correct for hot water.
It also says to --close the bypass valve-- when winterizing.
That is not correct. As we know you open the center valve when winterizing so the pink stuff can bypass the WH tank and close it in summer so water has to pass thru the tank.
I noticed that too, Dan. However it was the easiest pic I found on the internet using google to post showing the valves in the proper position for the question at hand. I have thought about actually downloading it and seeing if I can do an edit to it.

EDIT: Not my best work, but did it easily using microsoft paint. LOL
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:54 PM   #18
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:57 PM   #19
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Thanks so much for this photo edit. I am going to print it and post it inside my utility bay so I do not have this problem again. You are terrific!!!!
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