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Old 07-19-2017, 09:15 AM   #1
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Removing LP Tanks

Is there any easy way to remove the LP tanks in my Silverback 33IK? I need to attach a couple of tank monitors to the bottom of each tank. The only way I've been able to figure out is to back out the threaded rod in the middle of the attached picture from the bottom? It is extremely hard to get a grip on it with a set of channel locks and back it out of the locking nut at the bottom, which appears to be welded to the bottom of shelf. If that is the only method, I'm thinking of drilling out that nut and using a wing nut at the bottom, similar to the top?

I appreciate any suggestions.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:24 AM   #2
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From your pic it is set up wrong. The bar connecting the two tanks should just slide onto the all thread with a wing nut above that, it can be removed from the top.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:29 AM   #3
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The hold down cross bar at the top of the tanks looks to be in the wrong position.
If it was corrected so the bar notches were both holding in the right location on the LP bottles then you would have more room to work the hold down wing nut.
IMO... In short... the LP bottles are too close together.

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Old 07-19-2017, 09:35 AM   #4
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There should have been a very large wingnut on the top of the rod holding the bar on the cylinders in place.

To remove the bottle simple turn the bar until it’s free of one of the cylinders. You might have to turn one of the propane bottles a bit so that the bar will come free of the bottle. You might have to play around with the bar a bit. Once that is done simply lift the bottle out.

Why don’t I see any propane lines in your picture?

Here's a pic of my bottles, you can see the wingnut on top of the rod. Click on the picture to make it bigger.

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Old 07-19-2017, 09:43 AM   #5
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Thanks. I removed the wing nut and disconnected the hoses from the cylinders. The hoses and regulator are hanging out of the picture.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:49 AM   #6
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Loosen wing nut, lift cross bar, tilt tank away from regular to remove cross bar from tank, tilt tank forward, remove tank
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:59 AM   #7
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Thanks for the input. I think what is causing me problems is that the crossbar is really wedged into the tank on the left and the compartment seems really tight. I'll play around with it some more and see if I can wiggle it free using your method. I knew there had to be some method of getting them out of there without resorting to removing the rod!
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:20 PM   #8
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I installed the new monitoring system that is placed under each tank in my 38rd. Removed the wing nut removed the bar. Then uncoupled the connections then slide off the valve letting it hang down outside the compartment. Then placed module under the tank. Make sure to sync each tank before putting back into the compartment. Trust me on this. Do all devices you want to use for monitoring otherwise you will do this multiple times in order to hit sync under the tank on the new module. When placing tanks back in compartment this is where it gets tricky since the green feet need to stay on the bottom of the tank as you place it back in the compartment. This you have to watch carefully they don't fall off. Once both tanks back in compartment reverse the valve removal through the wing nut and you are back in business. This device is awesome and is very accurate for monitoring levels. Good luck and remember patients something I had to do when installing this but at the end you will be happy.
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Old 07-19-2017, 01:06 PM   #9
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I had the same problem with my tank hold down bar, it looked like it was made for a different model or it was a "universal fit". I removed the bar, cut about 2" off of it and cut new grooves for the tanks to rest plumb. Problem solved. And by the way the tank sensors work great!
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttanous View Post
I installed the new monitoring system that is placed under each tank in my 38rd. Removed the wing nut removed the bar. Then uncoupled the connections then slide off the valve letting it hang down outside the compartment. Then placed module under the tank. Make sure to sync each tank before putting back into the compartment. Trust me on this. Do all devices you want to use for monitoring otherwise you will do this multiple times in order to hit sync under the tank on the new module. When placing tanks back in compartment this is where it gets tricky since the green feet need to stay on the bottom of the tank as you place it back in the compartment. This you have to watch carefully they don't fall off. Once both tanks back in compartment reverse the valve removal through the wing nut and you are back in business. This device is awesome and is very accurate for monitoring levels. Good luck and remember patients something I had to do when installing this but at the end you will be happy.


I also bought the module, works great hate the green feet. When I need to fill next time, going to get rid of the green feet and use an old water hose and slice down the middle to make a split and get some construction adhesive and squirt a little in the hose and mount it to the bottom of the lp tank. Should make it easier to install back in the hole.
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:22 AM   #11
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I have had my Silverback going on 4 years. I HATE the way they used every millimeter squeeze to get them in there. I AGREE with cutting a new notch in the bar. Problem is; I only have a "chain saw" . I lock in one side of the bar and tighten the bar as much as possible. AINT BUDGED IN 3 YEARS. I use my rig in fall and winter a lot. Sooner or later I will get an added notch cut.
At age 74, strong arming a FULL propane tank is no picnic. Gauges work perfectly.
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:09 PM   #12
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A $14 disc grinder from harbor freight would do it. If you can kill it, you can return it!
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:00 AM   #13
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Great, then all I need is a "vice" to hold it, or talk DW into the job and a medical kit🤡. Uhhhh, NO. There was a day, but the sun set on those days. I'll wait till I go by a welding shop. But thanks anyway.
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:20 AM   #14
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Thanks to everyone! With the advice on this forum, I was able to wrestle the tanks out of the compartment, install the monitors (utilizing the rubber feet) and get them reinstalled. They work great so far!
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:38 AM   #15
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"Wrestle" is correct. WHY is what I ask.
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:43 AM   #16
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Ps: my final comment on this: my 2011 KEYSTONE, traveled extensively for 2 years in Winter out west, propane every week. NEVER, EVER, had an out/ back in difficult scenario. IT CAN BE AN EASIER PROCESS. FR can you hear me??!!
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:43 AM   #17
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what type/kind of monitor do you have?
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:09 PM   #18
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Here you go. A picture of the app.
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:45 PM   #19
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I installed tank feet on my tanks along with the sensors, I have three sensors. Works great
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:38 PM   #20
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I like that. I need one.
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