Silverback Question about front storage space

[Enigma]

Hello there. I have a bit of a dumb question. Have decided to buy a 2015 29RE but its up in Michigan and I don't get it until end of June. I was wondering if anybody who has a silverback of that year range knows what the height is inside the front storage compartment from the floor to the ceiling inside of the overhang, and how deep the overhang is. This is the area that I see most people slide their spare tire into. Also what the height of that flat wall is right above it where I would mount the inverter.

The place I'm buying batteries from has a deal on 48v server rack batteries that ends tomorrow and I was looking to see what the configuration would look like to slide them up under that area or if I need to go with different dimension batteries.

Thank you

[tomkatb]

I own the 2018 CC Hathaway 34 re.

I carry the biggest waste tote from Barker in the front plus many big light items.

I recently installed 2 SOK 205 ah batteries($2000) easily in the battery compartment where the 4 gc2 batteries were stored.

Carefully inspect the floors of the slides. Cost to replace one is over $2000.

I recently had my rv inspected at Amish Family Rv. Topeka ind. Near the factory.

Brought the old girl up to date. Fixed all issue. 5 pages of issues.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Enigma

Hello there. I have a bit of a dumb question. Have decided to buy a 2015 29RE but its up in Michigan and I don't get it until end of June. I was wondering if anybody who has a silverback of that year range knows what the height is inside the front storage compartment from the floor to the ceiling inside of the overhang, and how deep the overhang is. This is the area that I see most people slide their spare tire into. Also what the height of that flat wall is right above it where I would mount the inverter.

The place I'm buying batteries from has a deal on 48v server rack batteries that ends tomorrow and I was looking to see what the configuration would look like to slide them up under that area or if I need to go with different dimension batteries.

Thank you

Just curious...
What is your plan to charge these batteries from shore power or generator? The factory converter only provides about 14 volts, for charging 12v batteries.

What is your plan for voltage conversion for 12v components like fans, water heater, furnace, lights, slideouts, stabilizers, power jack? Some of these take substantial power, possibly over 50 amps at 12 v?

[Parrothead Mike]

You sent me a message regarding the front storage space and I thought I sent you a reply last week. I did have a problem with the reply so you may not have seen it and maybe I don't have very good computer skills. (?) I have a 2015 Silverback 29RE.

The demensions of the front storage:
Floor is 66" high X 40" deep --- there is a overhang in the back portion that comes 22" from the back wall. That overhang comes 12" above the floor. There is a flexible cover on the right side that covers the back of the battery storage and hydrolic hoses, but that shouldn't be a major issue.

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Just curious...
What is your plan to charge these batteries from shore power or generator? The factory converter only provides about 14 volts, for charging 12v batteries.

What is your plan for voltage conversion for 12v components like fans, water heater, furnace, lights, slideouts, stabilizers, power jack? Some of these take substantial power, possibly over 50 amps at 12 v?

I'm putting in a 48v 6500w inverter/solarcharger system in the front bay on that wall. This will let me max out the generator charging, and put up to 8000 watts of solar panels, which obviously 8000w won't fit on the roof. This will also let me charge from shore power and have the unit handle the prioritization of power input/charging.

As far as conversion down to the 12v components, I don't see how that could be too much of an issue since that should already be wired in and all I'd have to do would be potentially run a DC/DC converter off the the main battery bus. Should be able to run 60 amp.

Being fully honest I don't know entirely as I've never gotten to actually get involved with an electrical system on one yet but if it gets supplied it by the old batteries right next door, I'm sure I can tie it in with the 48v system.

Open to suggestions or considerations I might not know about. As far as the items you listed, not sure which are on 12v vs AC.

Originally Posted by Parrothead Mike

You sent me a message regarding the front storage space and I thought I sent you a reply last week.

Yes you did and thank you. I had already created this post before I had seen your reply. That was perfect.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Enigma

As far as conversion down to the 12v components, I don't see how that could be too much of an issue since that should already be wired in and all I'd have to do would be potentially run a DC/DC converter off the the main battery bus. Should be able to run 60 amp.

Being fully honest I don't know entirely as I've never gotten to actually get involved with an electrical system on one yet but if it gets supplied it by the old batteries right next door, I'm sure I can tie it in with the 48v system.

Open to suggestions or considerations I might not know about. As far as the items you listed, not sure which are on 12v vs AC.

I suggest you identify, locate, and price a suitable DC-DC converter for the appliances before investing much money and moving forward.

Solar is good, but what are the details for charging with a generator when you have a couple of cloudy days in a row? For that matter, what are the plans for charging for shore power?

There are definitely advantages to a 48-volt system, lighter gauge wiring for example. There was a big push in automotive to move to 48-volts throughout, back in the 90s and early 00s, but it never went anywhere. The automotive engineers realized that they would have to compromise and support certain 12v components. Light bulbs--in those days--are much more robust and shock-resistant in low-voltage, high-current configurations. That was pushed for a little while and then the whole movement fell apart. As you start looking at this, you may see similar issues. Better to look first than investing in parts and expending labor before identifying all the issues.

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

I suggest you identify, locate, and price a suitable DC-DC converter for the appliances before investing much money and moving forward.

Solar is good, but what are the details for charging with a generator when you have a couple of cloudy days in a row? For that matter, what are the plans for charging for shore power?

There are definitely advantages to a 48-volt system, lighter gauge wiring for example. There was a big push in automotive to move to 48-volts throughout, back in the 90s and early 00s, but it never went anywhere. The automotive engineers realized that they would have to compromise and support certain 12v components. Light bulbs--in those days--are much more robust and shock-resistant in low-voltage, high-current configurations. That was pushed for a little while and then the whole movement fell apart. As you start looking at this, you may see similar issues. Better to look first than investing in parts and expending labor before identifying all the issues.

I appreciate the thought and concern on this but IMO 48v to 12v conversion would be about the easiest consideration for the job. At the very worst I would just run a converter to a charger for a small 12 volt in the old battery bay and keep it hooked up to handle any of the 12 volt loads. I was able to find several DC/DC converters within a few minutes last night that would handle the job for less than 100 bucks. I understand what you're saying, but I don't think you understand my goal for the system and trying to get 12v to do what I need is WAY harder than getting 48v to power a couple 12v RV items.

But the reason I'm going for 48v system is 2 fold. 1) the amperage and getting charge controllers for the almost 5000w of panels I'm attempting to put on the roof is just too much and most cannot handle that amperage. 2) I'm trying to buy components that are going to come off and get put into a house system after I find land and build. So I need something that can be expanded into a whole house system, can't do that with 12,24,or 36. 3) 48v is just a ton simpler. For adding in the maybe supposed problem of converting back to 12 for the RV loads, I've made the rest of the system crazy simple and "plug and play", plus ended up spending quite a bit less money. 48v has seen the greatest improvements over the last 5 years on making simple, DIY, powerful setups for peoples home systems.

EDIT: As for the charging, the entire AC 50 amp input is going to go, after the surge protector, to the inverter and then back out to the main input. This allows for the inverter to manage the entire charging and power usage of the entire system. When the inverter alerts me that the batteries are getting below my specified point, my phone will alert and I go kick on the generator. The inverter will allow for 120A at 48v of charging for that from shore/generator making it way faster than the old 50a 12v charger for bring up the batteries.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Enigma

I appreciate the thought and concern on this but IMO 48v to 12v conversion would be about the easiest consideration for the job. At the very worst I would just run a converter to a charger for a small 12 volt in the old battery bay and keep it hooked up to handle any of the 12 volt loads. I was able to find several DC/DC converters within a few minutes last night that would handle the job for less than 100 bucks. I understand what you're saying, but I don't think you understand my goal for the system and trying to get 12v to do what I need is WAY harder than getting 48v to power a couple 12v RV items.

But the reason I'm going for 48v system is 2 fold. 1) the amperage and getting charge controllers for the almost 5000w of panels I'm attempting to put on the roof is just too much and most cannot handle that amperage. 2) I'm trying to buy components that are going to come off and get put into a house system after I find land and build. So I need something that can be expanded into a whole house system, can't do that with 12,24,or 36. 3) 48v is just a ton simpler. For adding in the maybe supposed problem of converting back to 12 for the RV loads, I've made the rest of the system crazy simple and "plug and play", plus ended up spending quite a bit less money. 48v has seen the greatest improvements over the last 5 years on making simple, DIY, powerful setups for peoples home systems.

EDIT: As for the charging, the entire AC 50 amp input is going to go, after the surge protector, to the inverter and then back out to the main input. This allows for the inverter to manage the entire charging and power usage of the entire system. When the inverter alerts me that the batteries are getting below my specified point, my phone will alert and I go kick on the generator. The inverter will allow for 120A at 48v of charging for that from shore/generator making it way faster than the old 50a 12v charger for bring up the batteries.

This plan makes a lot more sense to me now that you've disclosed plans to migrate the hardware to a residence in the future.

[tomkatb]

During our recent tune up of our 34RE the vendor reinforced the floor area of our rv in the front. Not clear what he did. He also added screws to the sheet metal fenders up front also. Lots!

We typically carry under #100 up there. Big volume, but little weight.

I suspect you will add much more weight up there.

If you are not going to travel much it would not matter.

I would look up there good. As is, I suspect that area was not intended to have #500 of stuff up there. Mine was coming apart.

Likely it will not matter to you but, the hitch weight is going up.