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Old 10-02-2021, 05:32 PM   #1
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Slow hydraulic slide movement

Hi everyone. I have a 2017 33IK fifth wheel that I’m having trouble with my slides closing. They are well lubed and I’m always on shore power when actuating them. Sequence always works like this. When opening bed slide, kitchen table slide, refrigerator/entertainment slide. Opening seems to work fine.
Closing is another story. Eventually the slides close. Sequence is: bed slide, closes normally then kitchen table slide takes forever with the Hydraulic motor running for almost two minutes then starts to close, then the refrigerator/entertainment slide.. takes forever for those two to start moving. I’m worried at one point the slides won’t move at some point while camping. Anyone have this same situation happen to them?
Hydraulic reservoir is topped off as well.
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Old 10-03-2021, 11:13 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaplaca View Post
Hi everyone. I have a 2017 33IK fifth wheel that Im having trouble with my slides closing. They are well lubed and Im always on shore power when actuating them. Sequence always works like this. When opening bed slide, kitchen table slide, refrigerator/entertainment slide. Opening seems to work fine.
Closing is another story. Eventually the slides close. Sequence is: bed slide, closes normally then kitchen table slide takes forever with the Hydraulic motor running for almost two minutes then starts to close, then the refrigerator/entertainment slide.. takes forever for those two to start moving. Im worried at one point the slides wont move at some point while camping. Anyone have this same situation happen to them?
Hydraulic reservoir is topped off as well.

When you say "topped off as well", how often have you had to do this? The hydraulic system is a "closed" system meaning it reuses the same fluid each time the slides are operated over & over again. It should never need topping off unless you're loosing fluid.

There are 2 sides to the hydraulic system (to make it simple) pressure (pushes slide out) & suction (or reverse pressure on the piston) to bring slide in. The utilize 2 sets of hydraulic lines to accomplish this.

If you're having to add fluid to keep the reservoir full then you have a leak somewhere. And since the majority of the hydraulic lines are hidden by the underbelly material, it may not be obvious. So, you may have a leak on the return (suction or in) side of the system that could be as simple as a loose fitting on one of the hydraulic rams or a small pin hole leak in one of the lines. You may have to drop the entire underbelly to check for leaks & inspect the lines & fittings.
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Old 10-03-2021, 12:54 PM   #3
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Hi RRRacer, thanks for the reply, I didn't mean in insinuate im always topping the fluid off. Its stays at the level its been since last year, Im not losing any fluid. I do hear a clicking sound when retracting the slides, still takes forever to
get them to move.

still front slide seems to move pretty normally, but it is a third the size and probably a third of the weight.

Ill drop the belly pan but im leaning towards the pump and/or the slide solenoid. Im not a hydraulics expert by any means...

Any other suggestions?
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Old 10-03-2021, 04:13 PM   #4
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The orange return lines historically have issues after time.your panels under rig remove easy to check if you suspect a leak.
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Old 10-03-2021, 09:21 PM   #5
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When is the last time you had your batteries tested? Weak batteries can cause this. You say you hear some clicking. Usually due to low or weak batteries. How old are yours?

Try this.. extend and retract your sides by using the white toggle switch that is located right at the hydraulic pump outside. See if you can tell if it is lugging down or not running as fast when you retract the big slides.
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Old 10-04-2021, 08:45 AM   #6
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Hi Dalford: thanks for the reply, I tried what you suggested and the return/retract sounds a little different - Voltage on the auto level shows 13.0 volts. It does sound a bit sluggish.
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Old 10-04-2021, 09:28 AM   #7
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You need to actually have your batteries load tested. Any auto parts store will do it for free.
Anything over 12.7v is coming from your converter. So that is why the control board reads 13v. What you need to know is what your batteries read during slide operation and if they have the load capacity to run your slides w/o going too low. Do you have a multimeter?
Your symptoms do indeed sound like weak or bad batteries as Dalford has said. Low or bad batteries are the major cause of slide and auto level problems.
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Old 10-04-2021, 10:34 AM   #8
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Hi Dalford: thanks for the reply, I tried what you suggested and the return/retract sounds a little different - Voltage on the auto level shows 13.0 volts. It does sound a bit sluggish.
As NMWildcat said, get them load tested.

Also, when you read the 13 volts on the auto level screen were you also running the slide motor? Just curious
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Old 10-04-2021, 02:04 PM   #9
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I second the batteries. We had problem couple years ago retracting the level up legs. System tripped the circuit breakers. Once reset it worked fine. Even on shore power the system draws off the batteries. A problem with batteries could cause the issue. Do the 6 way system have similar issues? My suggestion is to contact LCI / Lippert tech help. They are very good helping.
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaplaca View Post
Hi everyone. I have a 2017 33IK fifth wheel that Im having trouble with my slides closing. They are well lubed and Im always on shore power when actuating them. Sequence always works like this. When opening bed slide, kitchen table slide, refrigerator/entertainment slide. Opening seems to work fine.
Closing is another story. Eventually the slides close. Sequence is: bed slide, closes normally then kitchen table slide takes forever with the Hydraulic motor running for almost two minutes then starts to close, then the refrigerator/entertainment slide.. takes forever for those two to start moving. Im worried at one point the slides wont move at some point while camping. Anyone have this same situation happen to them?
Hydraulic reservoir is topped off as well.

OP states that his slides OPEN normally. It's just the closing operation/sequence that he's having issue with. I won't rule out anything suggested already but, I'm still leaning toward a hydraulic issue whether it be a leak, sucking air, sticky solonoid or valve.
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:47 PM   #11
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If the slides open normally, it is most likely not a pump or pressure issue. As others have suggested, if your batteries are not fading out, the first thing I would check would be the slide selector valves and make sure they are completely open, mainly because it costs nothing. I am assuming yours has selector valves because my creek has selector valves for each slide. Secondly that will allow you to isolate each slide by turning them on and off and see if that makes any difference. If that doesn't help, it is most likely a solenoid issue or could be controller. Good luck
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by rracer5 View Post
OP states that his slides OPEN normally. It's just the closing operation/sequence that he's having issue with. I won't rule out anything suggested already but, I'm still leaning toward a hydraulic issue whether it be a leak, sucking air, sticky solonoid or valve.
It takes more power to retract vs extend. When extend they are almost falling out as they are sliding downhill. When retracting they have to come up and then in.

Could be a faulty valve issue for sure but before delving into that mess a battery check is pretty easy. OP does not mention how old his batteries are. His RV is a 2017. OEM batteries??
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by karpcbk15 View Post
I second the batteries. We had problem couple years ago retracting the level up legs. System tripped the circuit breakers. Once reset it worked fine. Even on shore power the system draws off the batteries. A problem with batteries could cause the issue. Do the 6 way system have similar issues? My suggestion is to contact LCI / Lippert tech help. They are very good helping.
This is what karpcbk is talking about. I have a 2016 33IK so Im sure they are the same. The are called IRC valves (Individual Room Control). Make sure they are fully open. Fully CCW.
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Old 10-04-2021, 06:33 PM   #14
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Slides

I have a Cedar Creek 34RL2 and am experiencing exactly the same issue. Be sure you are looking at fluid level when all slides are out when you check fluid level. On mine it is the kitchen slide, which is the heaviest. The problem is less if the trailer is level. I have been turning the manual knobs off on the other slides to get that one back in. Following.
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Old 10-04-2021, 07:11 PM   #15
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so i pulled the batteries and had them checked. I ended up replacing one of them after doing a voltage and load test. that was probably part of the issue but the slides Kitchen and table were still not moving. IRC valves are completely open.

Called a friend of mine to start digging into the hydraulics. He (we) found a fluid around the slide solenoid fittings, he also noticed it sounded like air in the lines. tightened them up and retracted everything. things are at least moving now. reading the manual went through the sequence to bleed the lines.

we hooked the truck up and retracted the landing gear, I have no fluid loss but topped it off anyways.

after sequencing things seem to getting back to normal.

Im going to wait till morning to run everything through the sequences again.

thank you for all your inputs!
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Old 10-04-2021, 07:29 PM   #16
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Glad you resolved the issues thx for coming back to update us..
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Old 10-05-2021, 09:56 AM   #17
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Checking LCI Hydraulic Fluid Levels

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Originally Posted by Tundra 2014 View Post
I have a Cedar Creek 34RL2 and am experiencing exactly the same issue. Be sure you are looking at fluid level when all slides are out when you check fluid level. On mine it is the kitchen slide, which is the heaviest. The problem is less if the trailer is level. I have been turning the manual knobs off on the other slides to get that one back in. Following.
Pretty sure LCI has all slides in and jacks retracted to the travel positions. Then the oil level is should be within 1/2" of top of reservoir.
From LCI White sheet:
1. Start with all hydraulic components in the fully retracted position. This means that all jacks, landing
gear, stabilizers and slide-outs are brought back inside the unit as if it were ready to travel.
2. Find the hydraulic pump location and note the amount of fluid currently in the reservoir. The fluid level
should be about 1/4 from the top of the reservoir and no more than 1/2 from the top.
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Old 10-05-2021, 11:39 AM   #18
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OP states that his slides OPEN normally. It's just the closing operation/sequence that he's having issue with. I won't rule out anything suggested already but, I'm still leaning toward a hydraulic issue whether it be a leak, sucking air, sticky solonoid or valve.

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Old 11-16-2021, 07:18 PM   #19
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Since Lippert/LCI is a major supplier of hydraulic systems for the rv industry, what I would recommend is that in the future if you have any more trouble with your hydraulics, call them and get in touch with their technical support people. They are there to help you. Their number is 574.537.8900. Listen for the robot to give you the right extension for tech support.
Just recently we had an issue with our '17 Cardinal's front landing gear. The issue was the dual polarity solenoid and the control module: not enough power to the lead landing gear spade valve. Once these two items were replaced and re-zero'd the system, everything works great.
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Old 11-16-2021, 07:31 PM   #20
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Tundra: we never operate our slides until we're level. It doesn't have to be perfectly level, but close to it. I've heard of people's slide outs getting cock-eyed after operating the slides when the unit is not level: could be a costly mistake. Also, be sure you're connected to shore power before operating the slides. Low voltage will kill an electric motor fast.
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