Wheel Bearing Issues / Disc Brakes

[Allisfan]

[QUOTE=Allisfan;2003236]

Originally Posted by ard58

Sorry for not being exact "inner race" should spin on the spindle which it's clearly doing based on the pictures Attachment 194374

Edit, should not spin

[SlowrideHD]

Those are some crappy looking spindles. Are those original equipment? Or are they performance braking spindles along with their hubs? It does seem the bearing inner races were spinning on out of round spindle diameters to me.

Wouldn't be the first problem I've heard of with performance braking installs.

[Brother Les]

Am I missing something here? Where is the Cotter Key hole in the pictures where the Cotter Key would go to keep the Spindle Nut from moving? I would think that the hole would be visible from the pictures provided.

[Allisfan]

Good point! I missed that as well

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Allisfan

Good point! I missed that as well

Many of the newer axle spindle nuts are no longer held on by a Cotter pin (not Carter)

They use a capture washer that fits the flat of the end of the spindle. (depending on model)

[Brother Les]

Then imo, this is not equipment failure because of the equipment, but improper installation of equipment, which leads to 'scorching' and movement on the spindle.... ie. spindle nut was not tight enough. imo

[SlowrideHD]

Yep. Otherwise the grease going in the EZ-Lube zerk would just come out the cross drilled hole for the cotter pin.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by SlowrideHD

Yep. Otherwise the grease going in the EZ-Lube zerk would just come out the cross drilled hole for the cotter pin.

"5picker"
said that this model (some models) may not (do not) use a cotter key and has no hole drilled for that.
Did the 'Tech' forget to put in the 'capture washer' part on the spindle nut? or was it just to loose to begin with?

[tomherb]

Again, thanks for all the replies.

These are the original Dexter spindles and all the bearings were hand packed (i watched the greasy process when they were done this time last year).

These are Dexter EZ-Lube axles with the zerk in the center of the hub. I have avoided using this zerk since the bearings were hand packed and I was concerned about the stories of blowing out the seal from too much grease pumped into the zerk. Because of this zerk, these axles use the capture washer rather than the cotter pin as the zerk prevents the use of a cotter pin. All 4 of the capture washers were in place and were not damaged at all.

The bearings all were a tight fit when they were fitted on a trial basis before the installation. So much so that they would not go on if they were not absolutely straight on the spindle. I'm wondering if this tightness could have created an issue on the actual install and the bearing were not seated all the way. The discoloration on the spindles does seem to be from the inner race turning on the spindle. Any significance that the discoloration seems to be mostly on the bottom of the spindles? Although that would be where the weight of the trailer would rest the most.

When the new bearings are installed this time I'll make sure that they are checked again after driving a 100 miles or so.

[Brother Les]

When the bearings and grease fill is 'factory' installed, there is a void of grease in many area in the channel. If you use the grease zerk at a later date, just know that you may pump in a half/quarter of a tube of grease to fill the voids before seeing any grease come out the front at the spindle nut. You may think that the grease is flowing out the back 'seal', it is not. If you do this, jack the tire off the ground and gentle rotate the tire as you pump in grease.

there are better instructions on the web site, just giving you a little heads up.

[Allisfan]

Originally Posted by tomherb

Again, thanks for all the replies.

These are the original Dexter spindles and all the bearings were hand packed (i watched the greasy process when they were done this time last year).

These are Dexter EZ-Lube axles with the zerk in the center of the hub. I have avoided using this zerk since the bearings were hand packed and I was concerned about the stories of blowing out the seal from too much grease pumped into the zerk. Because of this zerk, these axles use the capture washer rather than the cotter pin as the zerk prevents the use of a cotter pin. All 4 of the capture washers were in place and were not damaged at all.

The bearings all were a tight fit when they were fitted on a trial basis before the installation. So much so that they would not go on if they were not absolutely straight on the spindle. I'm wondering if this tightness could have created an issue on the actual install and the bearing were not seated all the way. The discoloration on the spindles does seem to be from the inner race turning on the spindle. Any significance that the discoloration seems to be mostly on the bottom of the spindles? Although that would be where the weight of the trailer would rest the most.

When the new bearings are installed this time I'll make sure that they are checked again after driving a 100 miles or so.

Discoloration on the bottom is from heat buildup from the weight of the coach and the friction caused by the bearings not being seated properly

[Fifth Wheelers]

Have them put a dial indicator on both sides of the axle. Spin and see what type of run out you are getting. maybe a bent axle.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Fifth Wheelers

Have them put a dial indicator on both sides of the axle. Spin and see what type of run out you are getting. maybe a bent axle.

A bent axle does not cause excessive run out on a hub.

[D W]

The scorch marks are not normal. If this problem presented itself after the disc brake conversion then I would take a hard look at the hub/rotor assemblies. Both lateral and concentric run out.

[Bama Rambler]

Those pics look like the bearings spun on the spindle at some point. Since you said that you found the bearing loose that most likely caused the marring. I'd have the spindles measured to make sure they are withing spec for the bearings used.

[KRedburn]

I'm going to go out on a thin limb here.

You converted from drum to disk braking on your trailer.
You stated that you used the specified grease from Dexter Axle.

Now you have "scorched" bearings.

My thoughts,

1 Wrong grease. I assume that the Dexter spec was for your axle with drum brakes.
Disc brakes operate at a much higher temp than a drum. Only high temp wheel bearing grease rated for disc brakes should be used on the hub bearings.

2 You drove way to long after a bearing change on an axle. OOPs
20 to 50 miles max then recheck.

3. Installer backed off too much after "seating" the bearing and race.
While turning wheel tighten bearing until movement stops and then torque to around 25 foot pounds. Back off half turn, spin tire and retighten till stops. Backoff until the wheel just turns freely with no perceptible wobble. Lock it with the capture. Go back to #2 above.

I've installed my bearings this way for years. Seems to work well.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

I'm going to go out on a thin limb here.

You converted from drum to disk braking on your trailer.
You stated that you used the specified grease from Dexter Axle.

Now you have "scorched" bearings.

My thoughts,

1 Wrong grease. I assume that the Dexter spec was for your axle with drum brakes.
Disc brakes operate at a much higher temp than a drum. Only high temp wheel bearing grease rated for disc brakes should be used on the hub bearings.

2 You drove way to long after a bearing change on an axle. OOPs
20 to 50 miles max then recheck.

3. Installer backed off too much after "seating" the bearing and race.
While turning wheel tighten bearing until movement stops and then torque to around 25 foot pounds. Back off half turn, spin tire and retighten till stops. Backoff until the wheel just turns freely with no perceptible wobble. Lock it with the capture. Go back to #2 above.

I've installed my bearings this way for years. Seems to work well.

What he said X2

[babock]

Really doubt wrong grease. The read and tacky grease is fine for disc brakes. On my boat trailer, I have disc brakes and I use the same marine grease I always used before with drum.


You would have serious fade issues before you ever saw grease issues.


This is the correct process for setting pre load for the bearings. It sound like the OP did it correctly.
https://www.championtrailers.com/pre...heel-bearings/

[miniceptor86]

OP said he checked the hub/bearing temp and it was 165F. That seems hot to me, but maybe not after hard or long braking. I check mine as gas stops using the hand and if they were that hot I would get concerned. Internal temp would be much higher.

[Dale Carol]

Originally Posted by Allisfan

Undersized spindles, based on the pictures the bearing race is spinning on the spindle instead of the bearings spinning on the race. That is what caused the radial scratches/wear pattern on the underside. Yes you probably ordered the correct bearings based on the axle part/model number but that doesn't mean the correct spindle was attached to the axle. In my opinion. Eric

Out of all the comments made this is the one closes to being correct. The bearings slide on and off very easy and YES can spin on the axle shaft even when tightened properly. I just replaced mine on my cedar creek 34RL2 10,000 miles. They looked similar to yours. I have seen some on here that got so hot they ruined the axle spindle. the heat from spinning on the shaft causes the bearing to fail. it's not the grease, or the bearings fault. There is to much tolerance between the bearing cone and the shaft.
Loctite makes several bearing spindle Loctite compounds liquid and paste for this and it works. just do not put to much on a little will do. it will also make it hard to get them off again once it sets up. you might need a puller then, I did when I did the bearings on my Rockwood and pulled them to check them.