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Old 01-23-2019, 10:53 AM   #21
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I had my brakes replaced with disk brakes, the man that installed the brakes said I wouldn’t ever have to grease the axles again. He told me I could but it wasn’t needed
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Old 01-23-2019, 10:59 AM   #22
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I would rather spend a couple of hours repacking my own bearings every year than spend a day at a repair shop 1000 miles from home while they replace my my bearings, seals, and brakes. I do my bearing myself, and correctly.
Yes, I do that as well.



I have also changed out the chinese bearings the trailer came with t USA made Timkens...yes they are are actually USA made as it is stamped on the race and the bearing.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:35 AM   #23
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I had my brakes replaced with disk brakes, the man that installed the brakes said I wouldn’t ever have to grease the axles again. He told me I could but it wasn’t needed
I find that very confusing, why would replacing the drum brakes with disk brakes mean the bearings never need to be greased again?

I'd love to have disk brakes just because I hate adjusting drum brakes. Are your disk brakes electric over hydraulic?
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:42 AM   #24
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What does the typical bearing service run? Dealer wants $300, found a local RV shop for $108 per axel with a complete inspection.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:56 AM   #25
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I find that very confusing, why would replacing the drum brakes with disk brakes mean the bearings never need to be greased again?

I'd love to have disk brakes just because I hate adjusting drum brakes. Are your disk brakes electric over hydraulic?
Me too.


It would only happen if they were a sealed type like Vault bearings. If the axles/spindles weren't changed at the same time, of course they need to be serviced.


All disc brakes are electric over hydraulic. I installed Kodiaks on my boat trailer. Great investment.
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Old 01-23-2019, 12:43 PM   #26
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I had my disk brakes installed two years ago, probably the best investment I ever made on camper. $2700 bucks and came to my house to do the install.
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Old 01-23-2019, 01:04 PM   #27
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After a couple of near failures with boat trailer bearings, on one of the boats we had,I put on a product called “liquid lube”. You clean out all the grease, put in a new seal, then assemble the hub after drilling and installing a plastic cap. Then fill up with oil supplied which was 40 weight oil. I didn’t use that, instead I used 85-90 synthetic gear oil. Went 5+ years dunking that trailer never had a problem or touched the wheel bearings again. On trucks this system goes 250,000+ miles easily. Why not do this once instead of packing bearings all the time? Jay
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:15 PM   #28
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I would never use an oil bath hub with a boat trailer. The reason they don't use the anymore is that a they had MANY problems with the 30 years ago when they were introduced for boat trailers. It didn't take much water to get introduced to the oil to have bearing failure from corrosion. Greased hubs can tolerate a small amount of moisture WAY better.
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:28 PM   #29
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Disk brakes are pretty easy to install. If you want Kodiak disk brakes(best in my opinion), each axle is less than $500 even for 7k hubs and you can get the controller for less than $800.


https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=kodiak



https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=kodiak


3500# kits are less than $300/axle.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Kodiak/K2R35DKG.html
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:01 PM   #30
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About the only things I can do on camper or truck is change the oil in truck. I can check the batteries but not much else. The only mechanical skills I have is knowing how to call someone that does
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:14 AM   #31
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I've seen a lot of comments on RV axle bearing maint. and a lot of horror stories with the EZ lube axles and I have my own. I pull a 39' 2008 Cardinal F.W. that has the EZ lube bearings. I do my own maint. and have replaced the bearings, seals, suspension, the backing plates & magnets as well as the shoes a couple of time. I've had two seals blow out from pumping grease through the EZ lube zerk but of course you don't know it until you notice poor brake performance. Bottom line I don't trust the EZ lube system so I manually pack the bearings filling the cavity about half full with grease and I use a Loctite bushing locking chemical to ensure the grease seals do not work out. If you have someone else do your maint. make sure it's someone with a good reputation who can be trusted. I use eTrailer online for parts. They are very knowledgeable and quick with shipping. Auto stores don't deal much with RV's as some of you have found.
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Old 02-01-2019, 12:56 PM   #32
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I am 74 years old and I agree with almost 100% with luvbigiron.....I do not think it is needed to Locktite the grease seals but it would not hurt if you use the EZ-Tube method the grease your bearing. I would never trust a RV Shop to just repack my wheel bearing. When are in the process of repacking the wheel bearing, you are able to not only clean the old grease out of the bearings and repack the bearing, with the best possible grease, but to check out the brakes at the same time. I never re-use grease seals.

I believe, that the only way that I can insure that the job was done right is to do it myself.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:03 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Mr Towed View Post
t ideal.

Moral of the story:
Make sure you have plenty of time to allow for issues that could pop up.
Make sure you can get the grease seals before you mangle all 4 of them taking them off!
and on that note, get a seal remover tool.
OMG yes. DYIer for 55 years and discovered seal remover jusy last year. What a big improvement over screwdrivers.

Also dicovered that IF the race has to be pressed out, I can take the drum and all the new parts to the local trailer repair shop and he removes the old race, cleans it all in his parts cleaner, installs new race, packs bearings and slaps it together in about ten minutes a wheel for $15 -$20 each. But gosh, then I don't get grease all over myself, wrestling with them on the ground.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:27 PM   #34
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be trusted. I use eTrailer online for parts. They are very knowledgeable and quick with shipping. Auto stores don't deal much with RV's as some of you have found.
On the old rig, we had the generic five lug, 3500 lb axles with 10 inch brakes. Found self in small ag town on a Saturday (Coalinga, CA) with a self destructed bearing and drum.

No parts for it in the "recommended shops" or they were closed on Saturday.

Found an O'Riely's but only a couple of my parts, it stock. Then, right there on the wall in a big bubble wrap plastic package, FULLY ASSEMBLED HUB ready to slide on the only slightly damaged spindle, we'll greased in package. No brake drum, bUT hey. 4pm Saturday. Wired the magnet back and rolled out of town. Didn't even miss the brake.

About the only good thing I can say about flimsy, underbuilt, chassis with 3500 lb axles. Generic stuff works.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:41 PM   #35
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I timed myself the last time I replaced my old bearings. From jacking the wheel off the ground, removing the tire, drum, knocking out the old races and installing new races and packing new bearings, I was able to do it in just over 35 minutes.

It's not that messy if you use a bearing packer like this one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-34550...bearing+packer

I use a seal removing tool.
https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-56750...+removing+tool

I use this kit to drive in my races after I let them cold soak in the freezer.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-pie...set-63261.html


Also helps to have an electric impact wrench to remove the lug nuts and a torque wrench to properly tighten the lug nuts when reinstalling.

I do not believe in using any loctite on the seals as it makes them extremely hard to remove even with the correct tool. I do NOT use the EZ-Lube "feature".

And the best hand cleaner for the little grease you actually get on your hands:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:22 PM   #36
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If I had to repack my own bearings I wouldn’t be taking any trips. I don’t want to learn how. If my bearings ever need repacking on my Cedar Creek a shop will do it
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:20 PM   #37
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A lot of the user responding have different trailers than the original poster and some of us that have respond to his question.

When I had my two tow behind pop-up trailers! Yes; I would repack and grease the wheel bearings myself. They were small with the tires on them being of a smaller diameter and turn more revolution than tow vehicle wheels at towing speeds. So, the axles bearings defiantly needed to be checked yearly. I was also much younger when we owned those two trailers.

Now that I am pulling a 5er (now on my 3rd one) I have decided that somethings are will worth paying for. I have never had a wheel bearing failure or had grease on the brake shoes from over greasing. Yes, I know how to repack the wheel bearings and have the tools, but I choose to spend my money on somethings that I do not want to do.

One thing I like about the Cedar Creek line is the self adjusting brakes that are being used. Which is another point in not have to repack the wheel bearings for me.
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:26 PM   #38
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On my Cedar Creek I installed disk brakes and the installer told me the bearings would never need to be repacked. If he told me a lie I have no idea. The disk brakes were installed two years ago. I know one thing for sure I’m no mechanic.
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:58 PM   #39
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On my Cedar Creek I installed disk brakes and the installer told me the bearings would never need to be repacked. If he told me a lie I have no idea. The disk brakes were installed two years ago. I know one thing for sure I’m no mechanic.
How often do you pack the bearings on your truck or car?

More wheel bearings are ruined as a result of improper service than anything else, assuming you don't immerse them.

Bearings usually don't need any attention until it's time to replace the brakes. This isn't 1949 with ball bearings for wheel bearings.
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:43 PM   #40
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How often do you pack the bearings on your truck or car?
Zero...because they are sealed bearings.
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