wheel tire pressure rating

[mbbutler]

I have a 2016 CC SB 33IK. Wheels do not a have max pressure stamp. Anyone know what these wheels are rated at? current tires rated 80psi cold. i want to replace tires with 110psi rated tires.

[httntheroad]

Stamp on inside .take one in remove tire then you will know.

[mbbutler]

I did remove. Nothing stamped on inside

[Bama Rambler]

I contacted the vendor of the wheels on our RV and they told me that the steel wheels they provide are only limited by the tire and valve stems that are mounted on them. They were good for the max pressure of any tire that would fit the wheel. That's all they would tell me.

[emm-dee]

It's highly likely that you have a LionsHead wheel since they supply the majority of FR wheels. They rarely have a pressure rating stamped on them but you should find a stamp on the inside that shows the maximum weight capacity.

I questioned LionsHead about it and their response was the wheel could handle the pressure of any tire rated at a capacity up to the one shown on the wheel. i.e., an E-load tire rated at 2,800 pounds at 80 psi will wok on any wheel rated at 2800 pounds. However, putting that same tire on a wheel rated at 2,500 pounds would exceed the wheel capacity if inflated to 85 psi. etc etc etc.

Here's their response to my question

[mbbutler]

Ahh, inside of rim, not back side of rim! Now I am with you. Thanks

[Havasu Bill]

Interesting!
My Cardinal has 3750 stamped on the inside of the rim. It's visible by just crawling under the 5er.
I upgraded to G from the E rating without having to change the rims. The tire store also confirmed I was good.
I didn't have the need to price out new rims but would have bought them just to be able to upgrade the tires...peace of mind!

[jrowe0521]

call a tire dealer for that brand. they will advise you to inflate to max pressure

[Tiggerdad]

Originally Posted by jrowe0521

call a tire dealer for that brand. they will advise you to inflate to max pressure

He is wanting to make sure he does not exceed the capacity and pressure of the rim, not the tire.

[CC75]

Originally Posted by Havasu Bill

Interesting!
My Cardinal has 3750 stamped on the inside of the rim. It's visible by just crawling under the 5er.
I upgraded to G from the E rating without having to change the rims. The tire store also confirmed I was good.
I didn't have the need to price out new rims but would have bought them just to be able to upgrade the tires...peace of mind!

Just because your tires are rated for 110 psi does not mean that you have to fill them up to 110. It may also be that the wheel has weight carrying capacity stamped on them. Based on that, there are tables you can look up to adjust the corresponding air pressure.
There are some manufacturers who recommend you pressure up the tire to max, due to severe weight shifting as you travel down the road, and others suggest the pressure based on load. Goodyear site has a handy chart air pressure and load relationship for their rv line of tires.
So if you look up 3750 in the chart below, you will see 110 psi. That would be the max tire pressure when cold for that wheel. Wheels on the same axle should have the same tire pressure. I pressure all the tires the same on both my axles.

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf

[Havasu Bill]

Thanks! I live in the desert and see temperatures over 120 at times.
In the summer I run them at 105 and within 15 minutes they are at 113.
In the winter I keep them at 110 and they go up to about the same 113.
I have friends that run the same tires at 90-100 because of a smoother ride. Some of the roads I tow on are crappy so I'm only interested in maximizing the load rating of the tire.
The trip I'm on now I had the pocket door come off and trim come loose due to pot holes I couldn't avoid. I can't even imagine the stress on the tires!

[keith52]

Well I'll be darned. For years I've read about the winter and summer air, and the need to run the correct one for the different seasons. I guess if you read it on Facebook it has to be true, right? I need to get 400 pounds of summer air asap.

Sorry, couldn't resist....

[cseeger22]

If I were "upgrading" tires I would be more concerned about moving away from the China made ST rated tires and moving toward an LT tire for my RV. Many feel they are upgrading when one moves up a load range, but if you move up a load range and stay with an ST tire, I do not see the improvement. Most tire problems are not from overloading, but from poor construction. ie, the rule of having to replace trailer tires between 4-5 years. The ST tires dry rot from the inside out which leads to many different issues. A passenger tire or light truck tire would never have this type of reoccurring problem under normal conditions. Spend your money on tires that have more scrutiny put into their design than into how many can be produced in a period of time for the fewest $ with no worries of what happens to them after they are in the hands of the consumer. Just my "opinion" after dealing with the results of multiple ST tire failures.

cseeger22

[Havasu Bill]

Originally Posted by keith52

Well I'll be darned. For years I've read about the winter and summer air, and the need to run the correct one for the different seasons. I guess if you read it on Facebook it has to be true, right? I need to get 400 pounds of summer air asap.

Sorry, couldn't resist....

Good article and better explained than I could ever do it.
http://m.truckinginfo.com/article/18...-tire-pressure

Note that the article uses San Diego as it's comparative warm climate. If they used AZ, where I live, it would be even more severe.

Yea, yea, not validated by FB but something to think about in your daily maintenance [emoji6]

[rsdata]

cseeger22

Most tire problems are not from overloading, but from poor construction. ie, the rule of having to replace trailer tires between 4-5 years. The ST tires dry rot from the inside out which leads to many different issues. A passenger tire or light truck tire would never have this type of reoccurring problem under normal conditions. Spend your money on tires that have more scrutiny put into their design than into how many can be produced in a period of time for the fewest $ with no worries of what happens to them after they are in the hands of the consumer. Just my "opinion" after dealing with the results of multiple ST tire failures.

I think you underestimate the design limits of ST tires... BUT yes, cheaply made off-shore tires ST or otherwise IS a current problem...

I have never seen a rule about replacing tires in 4-5 years... just replacing as a matter of preventive maintenance... who wants an RV blowout when traveling? AND without a TPMS, how long would it take to even know you had a blowout and what damage is done when tire shards rip up the camper fenders and plumbing/wiring at 65 MPH?

I like this quote from this article... https://rvingwithmarkpolk.com/2012/1...s-vs-lt-tires/

Tim Fry, senior development engineer with Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company stated, “The major difference is reflected in the polyester cords used in ST tires. These cords are bigger than they would be for a comparable P or LT tire. Typically, the steel wire also has a larger diameter or greater tensile strength to meet the additional load requirements. Because of the heavier construction for an equal volume of air space, an ST tire is designated to carry more load than a P or LT tire.”

While the article I quoted is 5 years old, I don't think anything has changed in the tire industry but RV manufactures continue to want to maximize profit and minimize costs by providing the cheapest tires that will hold the unit up with little regard for added "tire load safety margins" on the most stressed piece of gear on an RV. This mindset is what has driven the BIG TIRE debate by owners that we see.

My own opinion is that RV tire blowouts are mostly caused by unintended abuse of the owner... mostly sidewall hits on curbs and potholes on the towed RV that are undetected by the driver.

[swannie]

We have a 2016 Champagne and I had the wheels off the rating on rims are 110 PSI and 3750# ratings Makes the rims alittle under tire rating of 4040#

[jimrose]

I have just placed new Toyo tires on my fifth wheel and have purchased a tire monitoring system. The pressure cold was set at 120 psi and after driving a few hours according to the tire monitoring system the tires were somewhere between 135 and 141 psi does anyone have any experience with how much the tire pressure increases when driving or any experience with the tire monitoring system being correct or not. Is the increase I am experiencing normal.

[Rich5117]

Just a comment had a blow out with original tires. Upgraded to 14 ply steel cased ST 235/85R16 Omni Cargo tires at 110 PSI. Called Lionshead, was advised that their aluminum wheels are rated for any proper sized tire for that rim.

I also called the tire manufacturer, based on the GVWR of our 2016 33IK they suggested running the tires at a pressure of 100 PSI, advising that at 110 PSI would cause center wear on the tires.

[rsdata]

jimrose...
you do not paint an entire picture here...

normally the PSI will rise by 1 PSI for every 10 degrees F rise in temp of the tire... and this can be exaggerated by direct sunlight and very hot pavement above and beyond the ambient air temp...

so

what was the temp of the tire in the morning and temp after driving some?

What brand of TPMS are you using?

Now going from 120 PSI to 135-140 means the tire temp must have risen 150+ degrees... from sitting to driving a distance...

I do not see this as out of the realm of possibility... nor do I see that pressure increase as excessive, depending on the accuracy of the gauges of the TPMS and the air/pavement temps.

I would purchase an inexpensive laser temperature gun, so that you can monitor the tire temp while stopping for gas, etc. Simply aim the laser at the tire sidewall and then the HUB and shoot for a digital readout of each. If tire temps are with a few degrees of each other I would say you are good to go. An elevated HUB temp might mean you are in the early stages of bearing failure on that axle. I would also say that as long as all the tire gauges are going up the same amount or within a 2-4# of each other, then that would be acceptable.

[SilverbackMel]

Wheels on Silverback are NOT weight stamped. I had all 4 of my tires replaced and looked that the rims at Discount Tire.