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Old 06-09-2018, 01:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by KLeslie82 View Post
Sorry if this have been beat to death ive tried searching to no avail. I have a 17 Cedar Creek 34RL2 that came standard with 2 AC units. I live and work in the south east quite a bit and the 2 units dont seem to be holding up as well as Id like. I would like to look into adding a 3rd ac, Is there an easy/semi easy way to tell if my unit has come prewired for this without dropping the fantastic vent and digging around? I have a blank spot on the breaker panel for another breaker so my hopes are I am pre wired. Seems to be a rather large difference in pricing between the installs.
I want to give you the best info I can regarding your original question....... is your camper pre-wired for a third AC. I do not think so.

Here aer the specs for yoru camper:

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2017-...-34rl2-tr31319

It came with 1 15,000 BTU unit, it was pre-wired for a second. It does not make any mention of being pre-wired for a third

To add a third you would have to

1. run 120 V A/C to the location on the roof
2. run 12 volt from that location to a thermostat in a wall
3. open up the roof and build a structure in the roof framing to support the A/C you are adding.

Not as easy as most people imagine, but quite doable if you aer handy. If not, bring yoru wallet, you will need it.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
I want to give you the best info I can regarding your original question....... is your camper pre-wired for a third AC. I do not think so.

Here aer the specs for yoru camper:

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2017-...-34rl2-tr31319

It came with 1 15,000 BTU unit, it was pre-wired for a second. It does not make any mention of being pre-wired for a third

To add a third you would have to

1. run 120 V A/C to the location on the roof
2. run 12 volt from that location to a thermostat in a wall
3. open up the roof and build a structure in the roof framing to support the A/C you are adding.

Not as easy as most people imagine, but quite doable if you aer handy. If not, bring yoru wallet, you will need it.

Thank you, that is what I wanted to know. I looked for specs but couldn't find anything except for the 2nd unit. Id like to consider myself quite handy and have done remodeling and home improvements for most of my adult life. Remodeled and sold my home and bought this CC to life in full time since I travel so much for work. I would probable pay the dealership or a reputable rv company to install it since I do not have much time to mess with it right now. My last camper was an 09 cougar 5th wheel but had one 15000 and a 30 amp service. I broke down and put a window unit in the LR and made a fancy wall plate and all for the window frame so in the winter and when moving I could remove it fairly easy. It went from hot as hell to being able to hang meat in it during the summer lol. But I do not want to go that rout with this one. I want to have it done right be it myself or paying someone to install it.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:46 PM   #23
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Please reread your specs, your combined evap and condenser fan pulls the 3 amps with out the compressor. It will also pull LRA. On start up which is like 24 to 27 without a hard start, I'm not arguing but I just want you to make a correct decision on amps. Did HVAC for 25 years please reread the plate. Good luck to you.
I understand. That was information I received from the dealership that would do the install. I will look into it more.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:43 AM   #24
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3 A.C. would pull 45 amps at full load or 90 or 95 degrees outside, no way you can run everything, impossible at full load, IMO not very good to do, that is why they put in the management system, to me and me only that is not safe advice. Do a load calculation.
I think you are missing the fact that a 30 Amp RV service is just that, 30 Amps.

A 50 Amp service, however is two 50 amp legs for a total of 100 amps. It will certainly support 3 RV AC units, refrigerator, hair dryer, etc.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:59 AM   #25
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No I understand completely, what it seems you don't understand that 2 ac has to be on 1 side or 50 amps, like I said it depends what is on that side also, such as I stated high amp appliances. If you wish to burn you breaker box up go ahead. Why do you think they put in that system? That is my point in not missing anything...its not my unit, and I would never add a 3rd A.C. without that system. Maybe I just want to be safe, but people can do as they wish...
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I think you are missing the fact that a 30 Amp RV service is just that, 30 Amps.

A 50 Amp service, however is two 50 amp legs for a total of 100 amps. It will certainly support 3 RV AC units, refrigerator, hair dryer, etc.
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Old 06-10-2018, 08:08 AM   #26
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Let me give you an example, at FLA, your 2 ac will pull between 15 and 16 amps, more on startup. A microwave pulls 17 amps, a converter pulls 3 amps, that is 50 amps period. That is why I said do a load calculation on what is on that side that you have added the 3rd A.C. Now if you can't understand that you are giving the OP bad advice period.
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Old 06-10-2018, 08:11 AM   #27
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That is for each A.C. 15 to 16 amps each, god forbid they cycle together, you can lower your start up amps by adding a hard start and a time delay for the fan motor. I have done this many years, amps do not lie.
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:44 AM   #28
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That is for each A.C. 15 to 16 amps each, god forbid they cycle together, you can lower your start up amps by adding a hard start and a time delay for the fan motor. I have done this many years, amps do not lie.
If I understand it correctly this is what the power management system does, Delay the start of the fan and starts one unit at a time. I know with my thermostat it will only start one unit at a time now. Also I have read guys keeping the fans in one or two units on high or low instead of auto so they dont start to drain amps.
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:50 AM   #29
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On a side note I sealed the vents at the ceiling with HVAC tape and made little scoops to help grab some of the air and direct it out the vents in the LR. This helped some. I installed a vent cap on my bathroom vent this AM and while up there I tooled around the AC units some while they were running. What I noticed is the front unit is expelling a considerable amount more heat from the heat exchanger than the back unit. Also the front unit is blowing much more cold air than the back through the vents. I will get a thermometer to check and see the difference. Both units are 15000 and the front is a LP, rear is standard.

I did check the vents for obstructions and leaks. I couldnt find any best I could tell with an inspection mirror and a flashlight.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:01 AM   #30
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Yes your correct, but it will pick which units to run at one time, you would probably have 2 stats and a slave stat, yes you can leave the fan in on instead of auto that would take the start up amps of the fan motor, with out checking I would venture to say 5amps then it will drop down to run amps at 3 amps, so your saving 1 amp or 2 , but in the long run it's better to run the units on and not auto, that will help even the temp in your C&C. This is my understanding, but that is also only part of what the control board does. Like I said in my opinion I would never just hook up a 3 rd A.C. because you have a space to put a breaker in, there's much more to it then that, you would be better off installing a 20 amp plug as stated then run it off your system with out the power management system. I would strongly advise against that, for you safety and protection. But I'm not going to give you bad advice either. Glad your thinking of the best way...
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:17 AM   #31
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I have considered that as well. Running an independent power source for the AC and plugging it into the available 20 amp plug on the pedestal. That is how I ran the window unit in my cougar lol. Ran an dedicated plug into the camper for the unit. If I install the 3rd unit I would like to run the power management system anyway. I would feel this would be the least "jerry rigged" way to approach it. Best I can tell I am not prewired, It is a large cost difference in the install so that will weigh into weather or not I go through with the install.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:27 AM   #32
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On a side note I sealed the vents at the ceiling with HVAC tape and made little scoops to help grab some of the air and direct it out the vents in the LR. This helped some. I installed a vent cap on my bathroom vent this AM and while up there I tooled around the AC units some while they were running. What I noticed is the front unit is expelling a considerable amount more heat from the heat exchanger than the back unit. Also the front unit is blowing much more cold air than the back through the vents. I will get a thermometer to check and see the difference. Both units are 15000 and the front is a LP, rear is standard.

I did check the vents for obstructions and leaks. I couldnt find any best I could tell with an inspection mirror and a flashlight.
Just a guess, but your load could be different, or your unit could be slightly under charged in the back, if it is the hotter the outside temp the lower your discharge air will be until your evap coils starts to freeze. One way to to check take a thermometer and put it on the discharge. Get a reading by rule of thumb it should be producing 30 degree warmer air coming out then the surrounding air going in. That was a way to check when we used r 22 not 134a from. But still you will be close. Not all units come fully charged from the factory. Also check the dalta t from your Return to supply air you should be getting 15 to 17 degree differential, if not more then likely your under charged. Hope this helps you, nothing worst then the a.c. not producing it drives me crazy...
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:43 AM   #33
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I was thinking it could be the heat load difference as well but thinking about it the Front unit will freeze you out while the rear is always warmer. With heat rising you would think the front would be warmer being the high point in the RV. I will head to town and grab a thermometer to check the temps. If I find the unit is undercharged can you recharge these or are they sealed units? I would assume you can since I remember reading one FT RVer always asked to have his overcharged slightly when in for service to help with the high heat in the south. I appreciate the help.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:47 AM   #34
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I have considered that as well. Running an independent power source for the AC and plugging it into the available 20 amp plug on the pedestal. That is how I ran the window unit in my cougar lol. Ran an dedicated plug into the camper for the unit. If I install the 3rd unit I would like to run the power management system anyway. I would feel this would be the least "jerry rigged" way to approach it. Best I can tell I am not prewired, It is a large cost difference in the install so that will weigh into weather or not I go through with the install.
I feel better now, I agree the cost is not that much more and this is your home and investment. A little clue about dealers. They are parts replacement not repair people. You sound handy to me so this is doable for you, if you find the unit is low on Freon you can add Freon on your own, these units do not come with ports, so you can add what is called a saddle valve on your suction line. The cost at granger is like 10 bucks. Tap the line and go to Napa and a recharge can of 134A it will come with a gage. When it's about 90 outside put that on the port and open the port, if your not in the green just add Freon until you are. Or call a HVAC company to do it. Do not call a Mobil RV repair, most will just say replace the unit. If you have anymore questions just let me know...stay cool..🤣
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:57 AM   #35
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Do not over charge, what happens is that in your condenser coil is liquid, as the temps rise outside so does the liquid, and you get less transfer because the liquid Freon is higher in the coil. So when the compressor turns it to a vapor for the evap coil it hasn't condensed enough in short not to confuss. You. It go's in as a liquid to the expansion valve and comes back as a vapor which the compressor valves then changes it back. That's the basic 101
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I was thinking it could be the heat load difference as well but thinking about it the Front unit will freeze you out while the rear is always warmer. With heat rising you would think the front would be warmer being the high point in the RV. I will head to town and grab a thermometer to check the temps. If I find the unit is undercharged can you recharge these or are they sealed units? I would assume you can since I remember reading one FT RVer always asked to have his overcharged slightly when in for service to help with the high heat in the south. I appreciate the help.
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:03 PM   #36
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According to my thermometer my readings are as follows.

Front unit in bedroom
Return Air 72*
Driver Supply air 44*
Passenger Supply air 43*

Rear Living Room Unit
Return Air 76*
Driver Supply Air 49*
Passenger Supply Air 47*

Looks like a 5* difference in air temps from unit to unit. It is mild at appx 88-90* and partly cloudy outside and the LR unit has ran pretty much all day to keep it at 73-72*. I also have a large dehumidifier running in the LR to keep moister at bay. I am going to climb up top and measure the output of the air.
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:30 PM   #37
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Updated.

Outside ambient temp with same thermometer reads 97.5* in the shade. Although it doesn't feel quite that hot, weather channel and both vehicles show it at 90* even. Humidity inside camper at 35-45%.

Front unit in bedroom
Return Air 72*
Driver Supply air 44*
Passenger Supply air 43*
Unit Discharge air 131*

Rear Living Room Unit
Return Air 76*
Driver Supply Air 49*
Passenger Supply Air 47*
Unit Discharge temp 121*
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:23 PM   #38
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Also remember you pulling in alot bigger room , probably with a lot of single pane windows, your really doing pretty good at that outside temp, what time did you put it on to try and keep up.
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:25 PM   #39
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Look on the weather channel where your located for humidity I would say you might be in the 70's to 80 % that's pretty high.
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:31 PM   #40
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I think you doing as best as it can, i really don't know if a 3rd A.C. would really help, when the humidty drops it will freeze you out, it being eaten up by that. Good discharge temps a little over 30 plus degrees, i would like to see the main one a little more, but your dehumidifier might be the cause, remember a A.C. is nothing more then a big dehumidifier. Where are you located?
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