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Old 06-10-2018, 03:48 PM   #41
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That is for each A.C. 15 to 16 amps each, god forbid they cycle together, you can lower your start up amps by adding a hard start and a time delay for the fan motor. I have done this many years, amps do not lie.

A hard start cap will not reduce the startup current. Also, most clamp on amp meters will not react fast enough to read startup current accurately. If you want to reduce start current MicroAir makes an add on board that will do just that.
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:55 PM   #42
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If a company was installing A.C. they use what is called heat calculations that's includes heat gain with Windows and insulation, your at 2.5 tons, or 30,000 btus how many sq feet is your living space, but remember it is not stick built, so that will throw that off to. These trailers or M/H are mostly not insulated that well or have double pain windows, that's where your heat gain is coming from
They say that your environment should be at 20 degrees cooler then the outside, i really don't agree with that but that is how the engineers design the systems.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:09 PM   #43
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A hard start cap will not reduce the startup current. Also, most clamp on amp meters will not react fast enough to read startup current accurately. If you want to reduce start current MicroAir makes an add on board that will do just that.
Your right it doesn't reduce the current, but it will kick it out of the start wind faster. That micro board you are talking about will lower your needed current, you have what is called start capacitor on the unit, all that does is store energy for start ups it measured in micro farets. You unit probably has a combined one that starts your compressor and evap fan common is 7.5 , do not short the terminals it will knock you on your butt. The board your talking about is new, and I have only read about them and there expensive, a hard start is cheap and all your doing really is putting to capacitors in line. You hook the two wires to your compressor terminal and common on the existing unit capacitor. Word of warning not to get shock, take a screw driver and put it across the terminals to discharge it before adding the wires. Hope that helps. I'm doing this by memory, i have been retired for 20 years, alot has changed in the industry. But basics never change...
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:21 PM   #44
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Also you can piggy back 2 cheap hard starts together, even faster, to answer your other question my meter will hold the start up amps it is a digital Sperry, i just have depress the button and it will hold the amperage to read, it was expensive but a must to have to read lock rotor amps. If a compressor would not start, i would put 2 or 3 inline to try and kick it out, then leave only one on the capacitor. Saved alot of change outs in my day.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:30 PM   #45
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I agree with the larger area but at the same time the heat rises to the bedroom. The LR has 2 returns and 4 vents it supplies while the upper has 2 returns and 3 vents. The upper is still performing better than the LR unit. I do have about 20' of single pain windows. They are tinted and I have double layer radiant shield cut and placed in the windows throughout every window. We keep the both shades drawn and with the lights out it is a cave in here. The fantastic fan in the LR/kitchen is plugged with a pillow shield and I installed the radiant shield in the sky light above the shower. It does keep it comfortable even in the heat of the day but with any cooking or when the heat goes up it will be borderline.

I keep it low all day, I like cold when I sleep so I get it to 69-70 at night. Keep in mind they run throughout the night will little break as well. I understand RVs arent insulated well but I feel it should be removing heat a little better. Maybe my expectations were too high.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:45 PM   #46
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I agree with the larger area but at the same time the heat rises to the bedroom. The LR has 2 returns and 4 vents it supplies while the upper has 2 returns and 3 vents. The upper is still performing better than the LR unit. I do have about 20' of single pain windows. They are tinted and I have double layer radiant shield cut and placed in the windows throughout every window. We keep the both shades drawn and with the lights out it is a cave in here. The fantastic fan in the LR/kitchen is plugged with a pillow shield and I installed the radiant shield in the sky light above the shower. It does keep it comfortable even in the heat of the day but with any cooking or when the heat goes up it will be borderline.

I keep it low all day, I like cold when I sleep so I get it to 69-70 at night. Keep in mind they run throughout the night will little break as well. I understand RVs arent insulated well but I feel it should be removing heat a little better. Maybe my expectations were too high.
My friend, i think your expiration are to high for these air conditioners. When you cook automatically your adding moisture to the air, just by using propane. Your units first has to remove the humidity before it can really start cooling to where you want also remember these units are not air tight, so you are pulling that in though your Return. I think I would start with maybe a bigger dehumidifier. That might help but I'm guessing, you can spend 2000.00 dollars on another system but will that really work. It will help, but still at 90 plus outside your not going to really get lower, just cycle more to much is also not good. Hoped I have helped you a little, good luck no matter what way you go.
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:14 PM   #47
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Maybe this will help you since you like that temp at night, I'll try and explain this , what your body is feeling is the evaporation on your skin, you are putting off heat all the time a women would put off almost double of a man, by blowing air over your skin you reduce the cooling that you need. Try leaving the a.c. set and add a fan to blow over you, i bet you will be comfortable at night and even sleep with a light blanket. Sounds strange I know but try it, alot cheaper to get the same results.
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:18 PM   #48
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The humidifier I got is a large unit. It is good for 400 to 700 square feet. Should be more than enough. When I first got it I was removing about a half gallon of water a day. Now its down to about a 3rd of that. I also have a Damprid in the bathroom and one in the closet. More for moral support than anything else LOL
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:24 PM   #49
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for us, even with two units, having several fans, if not many, spread around the coach adds air flow/movement, which is just as important as 'temperature'...

but, alas, there are certainly times when even two don't seem 'enough' on the hottest and most humid days/nights...

every seen the big Prevost coaches for bands and all their people? They can have 6 or even 7 roof top air conditioners, since sometimes 8 or more folks are all sleeping on board... but they also are rarely on '50amp RV service' and mostly on a super large huge big Generator that probably runs 24/7.... that's a lot of diesel!
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:10 AM   #50
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I guess if they can afford a Prevost, they could care less what they pay at the pumps.
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:42 PM   #51
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You can run a wire thru the floor with a plug on it outside. Run a separate extension to the pedestal and plug into the ped 20 amp outlet. Problem solved. no management needed.
X2
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:50 PM   #52
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X2
Simplest way!
Read post #34, he doesn't want to Jerry rig , he would rather do it correctly and put in the Management System as the factory does, GOOD FOR HIM, smart man
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:37 AM   #53
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Read post #34, he doesn't want to Jerry rig , he would rather do it correctly and put in the Management System as the factory does, GOOD FOR HIM, smart man
Personally I don't care what you think. Their is always one on a forum-I guess your it. If you don't like my post or anyone else's don't read it.
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:50 AM   #54
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Don't know why you would say That? Maybe you just don't like the word used, but tell me when a person installs a A.C. like that, how does one protect it, such as from low and high voltage? The most damaging things to the unit, if you bothered to read the whole thread you would have read that he quoted those words. What else would a person call it, surly not installed safely or with in recommended way by FR. I will continue to recommend the correct and safe way. Please have a nice day
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Personally I don't care what you think. Their is always one on a forum-I guess your it. If you don't like my post or anyone else's don't read it.
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:54 AM   #55
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I'm also sure what you didn't include is that breaker panel in your bedroom to protect your unit? Maybe I missed that part on the code, that none is required.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:50 AM   #56
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Let me give you an example, at FLA, your 2 ac will pull between 15 and 16 amps, more on startup. A microwave pulls 17 amps, a converter pulls 3 amps, that is 50 amps period. That is why I said do a load calculation on what is on that side that you have added the 3rd A.C. Now if you can't understand that you are giving the OP bad advice period.
Could you please provide the basis for this information? How is it that the micro will work on 15 amp breaker? A 1500 KW mico draws 12.5 amps. That's a big microwave not found in most RV's

I agree with you on the loading of the 50 amps. That is easy to do by a novice that does not understand.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:57 AM   #57
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Could you please provide the basis for this information? How is it that the micro will work on 15 amp breaker? A 1500 KW mico draws 12.5 amps. That's a big microwave not found in most RV's

I agree with you on the loading of the 50 amps. That is easy to do by a novice that does not understand.
My Micowave is on a 20 amp breaker from the factory, the specks to it call for 17 amps running on high, dont know where you git a 15 amp breaker from? I would venture all FR units come with a 20 amp breaker homerun circuit. I guess I can take a picture of the speck sheet and post it if you want, just let me know, better then that look it up on the internet. Per your words why would anyone give advice of that not knowing if they were a "NOVICE" or not?
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:11 AM   #58
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I don't have time now to read through all this, but I know Creekers that have 3 ac units and they run all 3 together a lot of the time. The power management ensures they don't all kick ON at the same time, but they will dang sure run all together. And they all have EMS systems and none have had any issues when all 3 are running, with microwaves, res. refrigerators, tv's, and whatever else.

I don't have 3, but my 2 ac units do a great job. I'm forty seven feet from the sun here in Utah and it's 90+ and I've been cool as I can be.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:23 AM   #59
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Sounds like you have a good system, does your PM also shred loads? Just a question, but that is the only way to use 3 and I would venture they have most of your high output on the side with only 1 a.c. on, there is no way as I stated above if those appliances are all on that side of 50 amp someone would trip breakers, that is why I said " you need to do a load calculation before you just add another a.c. , not all are wired the same, they might be if it was prepped out the door, I'm not a manufactor.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:28 AM   #60
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Another factor but not with the PM system is that without protection as some has said, first it's against code, and the big one, god forbid there was a fire, if your insurance company found that you didn't have a protected circuit on that A.C. even if the fire didn't start there you would be S$$$ out of luck.
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