I like the Smart Car toad. A few questions if I may. What Base plate did you use for the Smart Car. Our 20CB has a 1-1/4" receiver. Did you have to replace that with a 2" receiver? If so, do you know the model that fits? What supplemental braking system did you use. This is very interesting as the weight seems to fit within the capabilities of the 20CB.
This confirms my suspicion that our 20CB's hitch was upgraded by the previous owners. I didn't realize this at first but thought it seemed odd that the label indicated 'no drilling' and '10,000lbs' capacity when everything I'd read online mentioned 2,000lbs towing capacity!
Here are some photos
I'm curious what the previous owner was using it for now... I had ruled out using a hitch mounted motorcycle carrier but now I'm wondering if it is possible.
Speaking of hitches, I ran into an issue today doing a test hookup of my Kendon motorcycle trailer; it seems the 'built-in' trailer light connector on the 20CB is non-standard size or something, neither the trailer light tester I have or the plug on the trailer itself seem to fit! Here is a photo I took of them side by side:
As you might be able to tell the 'male' plug on the 20CB side has very little room around it and can't accommodate the female connector on the tailer / tester plug. Very strange, have never seen anything like that before.
I tried unscrewing the connector on the 20CB to try pulling it out but it looks like it's secured with silicon on the back side and isn't coming out easily. It would be easier to cut the cable where it meets the plug and wire up a new plug around the bumper. Here is a photo of behind the panel where the wire (in loom) attaches:
Jay,
I did tons of research before finally deciding to go ahead with the Smart toad. The 2000 pound tow rating as well as GVWR and GVCR ratings. Some Smart models are NOT flat towable and some models are heavier.
I had an RV service place order everything and do all the work.
Parts:
-Blue ox base plate BX1987
-Blue ox ALPHA tow bar (2in receiver)
-Upgraded the Hitch: class 2 (1.75in) to a class 3 (2.0in).
-Replaced the RV's 4 pin flat plug with 7 Pin round.
-4 inch drop added to receiver to level the ALPHA tow bar.
-Diode light kit installed in the Smart.
Supplemental Brake system:
-Brake Buddy Classic 2 (some wiring required for the breakaway switch and battery charging).
Smart car needed a Battery cutout switch on the Positive battery pole. Bungie cord is required on Smart steering wheel to prevent "jacking" on tight, slow turns.
The 20CB hauls all this very well, gas mileage is 12.5.
Thanks for all the info guys!!!. Plutoz, that 2" Acme is a replacement/upgrade, not the original. The original is a 1-1/4" 2000 lb receiver and it has two inverted hoops to keep the hitch from dragging the ground. I don't see those hoops on that one. That 10000 lbs is the class IV hitch rating, not the capacity the 20CB can tow. I have only used a bicycle rack in our 20CB and never realized the connector was not the standard US 4 pin.
Thanks for all the Smart info Woody. Still trying to decide if we want a dedicated toad for the 20CB.
Yes, I had that problem. There is a source near by under the console cup holder. C12A connector. I tapped in there. I found the info on the TransitUSAForum. Search for a thread titled "Switched 12V+ sources under dash?" dated 11-10-2015. There are pictures there. Link below if it is allowed.
Plutoz, I did a little more research on that hitch (91448) and it is from a 1997-2003 F150. The Acme hitch for the Transit is 91536 (7500Lb). Who knows if the standard Transit ones fit the back of the motorhome? Looks like someone did some custom/creative work.
Woody, do you know the make and part number for the hitch you used?
Plutoz, that 2" Acme is a replacement/upgrade, not the original. The original is a 1-1/4" 2000 lb receiver and it has two inverted hoops to keep the hitch from dragging the ground. I don't see those hoops on that one. That 10000 lbs is the class IV hitch rating, not the capacity the 20CB can tow.
That's what I suspected. I would never dream of towing anything near that weight, I suspect it was put on to provide additional tongue weight, either for a motorcycle or mobility device carrier.
I'm interested in seeing a photo of those hoops...
[QUOTE=jaynwhite;2012910]I have only used a bicycle rack in our 20CB and never realized the connector was not the standard US 4 pin.[/QUOTE'
It appears to be (and may well be) the standard 4 pin, it just doesn't actually fit anything I've tried plugging into it :/ Possibly a poor connector design...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaynwhite
Plutoz, I did a little more research on that hitch (91448) and it is from a 1997-2003 F150. The Acme hitch for the Transit is 91536 (7500Lb). Who knows if the standard Transit ones fit the back of the motorhome? Looks like someone did some custom/creative work.
Interesting; that makes me a little bit more nervous about using it for a motorcycle carrier without having it checked out by a professional.
I have been doing some reading up on them tonight and it appears the VersaHaul is one of the better options
They rate it for up to 500lbs - my DL650 is 490lbs wet - cutting it pretty close. I would feel more comfortable with something that advertises 600lbs or more. I'm still researching it. My wife is very excited about the idea of *not* having a trailer and has given me carte blanche to buy whatever I need!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaynwhite
Yes, I had that problem. There is a source near by under the console cup holder. C12A connector. I tapped in there.
Thanks, I actually found that same thread, and connector. I used a posi-tap (god I love those things) and am now up and running. Now if I only I could get the metra dash kit to clip in properly, what a pain...
Did you do anything to connect the factory line-in plug (I assume you have one) to the HU? I also considered flush mounting a USB port near the line-in but just ran the cable that came with the HU into the glove box. For the amount I will use it that will work just fine.
I had no line in on my dash (my F150 has a USB and a 3.5mm plug below the radio). I mounted the Kenwood USB pointing up in the little open cubby near the radio on the drivers side.
The "hoops" on the hitch are flat metal bent at about a 90 deg angle and the ends welded to the hitch brackets. That puts the 90 deg angle pointed down to support the back of the motorhome from bottoming out on the hitch in a big dip. Of course if it is a big enough dip, it could damage the hitch and motorhome tail :-) Sorry, I don't have a picture of it.
I don't know the make/model of the class 3 hitch but the tech said the bolt pattern was slightly different so he needed to drill two new holes in the frame. Charged $250.
Blue OX does have a tow bar with a ball hitch which of course would fit on the original class 2. It is a lower tow rating and i agreed with the tech to go with the Alpha and upgrade to class 3.
I'm increasingly concerned about the aftermarket hitch on my 20CB being too low after posting the pics on a few other forums with respect to the hitch mounted motorcycle carrier. Just about everyone agrees it is too low... the bottom of the receiver is 12" off the ground
I spoke to a gentleman at VersaHaul and they told me they recommend 14-18" clearance for their carriers, but they suggested a riser bar they offer which brings the unit up 4". Obviously that doesn't help the issue of my hitch receiver bottoming out, but at least the carrier won't be damaged :/
Wondering if either of you would mind measuring your hitch clearance for me for comparison, either the factory one in your case Jay or the aftermarket Class III you are using Woody. Pictures would also be great
Grabbed a picture of the hitch for you. Shows the short wire harness connecting the 4 pin to 7 pin plug also.
The receiver is 12 inches off the ground.
Grabbed a picture of the hitch for you. Shows the short wire harness connecting the 4 pin to 7 pin plug also.
The receiver is 12 inches off the ground.
Maybe the picture plays tricks but it looks like the 7 pin plug is even lower than the receiver :O
Perhaps I don't need to be worried about the receiver height after all.
The plug bracket is the same height as the receiver, the picture is deceptive from parallax. I wish i had a photo of the original hitch, I am just now realizing that i always forget the "before" photo.
Woody, that hitch of your is a Draw-tite brand one. If you could, can you take a detail picture of the label on the right hand side. Almost all hitches have the model number on them (insurance adjusters use the info to replace the hitch if it has been in an accident). That is how I found what hitch Plutoz was from.
I tried saving your picture and enlarging, but the detail wasn't enough. I hope it has a 79512 on that label.
Woody, that hitch of your is a Draw-tite brand one. If you could, can you take a detail picture of the label on the right hand side. Almost all hitches have the model number on them (insurance adjusters use the info to replace the hitch if it has been in an accident). That is how I found what hitch Plutoz was from.
I tried saving your picture and enlarging, but the detail wasn't enough. I hope it has a 79512 on that label.
Thanks!
Jay
Jay,
Tag reads 75912. I've attached a pic of the spec plate.
__________________
Woody & Cookie
2022 Coachmen Apex Remote 16R (Remo)
New Hampshire
So I've had an interesting discussion with some folks over at the Ford Transit USA forum about hitches and tongue weight on the Transit cutaway chassis. They are saying that 'upgrading' the hitch doesn't give you more tongue weight / towing capacity than the 200lbs spec'd by Coachmen. In fact it may give you less because the hitch itself weighs more than the factory hitch.
Some of it is a little over my head but it has temporarily scuttled my plans to install a hitch mounted carrier.
In my case, I am not trying to get more tongue weight or pulling weight, just trying to get a 2" receiver instead of the 1-1/4 I have to be able to use an existing Blue Ox towbar. Still doing the math to see if we want to invest in a Smart toad for this motorhome. So trying to figure out all the costs (car, taxes, tags, baseplate, supplemental brakes, breakaway braking, light hookup kit etc). Looks like I can keep it in the 8-10K range depending on the car I find.
Stupid question maybe but how did you install the struts; I attempted to put them on my doors but realized there is nowhere to mount the 'base' of the struts I bought as all of the cabinets (save one) are 'open' inside.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is my shock installed (I put 'em on all my cabinet doors):
-Attach strut on door about two inches from hinge
-Open door to desired "full open"
-Attach lower end of strut to cabinet frame. I was only able to use two of the three screws.
So the wife and I have been on the road for a week now in our 20CB. We started to get some nice weather so I decided to starting using the plumbing and de-winterize and realized quickly I didn't know what I was doing. Spent some time reading the manuals and now think I have a better handle on things. Then it got cold again of course so I had to deal with keeping tank heaters going all night and running out of battery power and on another night a frozen water hose. At least I think I'm through that now as it hasn't gone below 14C the last two nights in SC and we're heading further south.
I'm trying to follow the instructions in the manual I received to sanitize and flush the fresh water system but can't figure out the tank drain valve location. Instructions are pretty useless actually. I opened the 'low point drain' access hole in my rear storage compartment, but I have no idea what I'm looking at inside. I tried turning the one silver 'tap' in there 90 degrees expecting to hear water dumping onto the ground; nada. I'm afraid to just keep running the pump / faucets open and run the pump 'dry'; it's already showing empty using the gauge by the door.
During the process of flushing the fresh water tank I noticed the water pressure coming out of the faucets when running off the pump is pretty pathetic; is this a common issue or something I need to get looked at? This is my first RV so I really have no base knowledge of what to expect.
As I mentioned earlier I ran out of battery overnight a couple times, not just when running the tank heaters. I was using the furnace and fridge on those nights; I assume the furnace fan takes power but I really wasn’t expecting to run out that quickly. I was surprised when I opened up my stair compartment and I only have one battery – I thought these units came with two batteries standard? Should I be having a word with my dealer?
One other annoying ‘feature’ is the low battery condition causes the CO detector to ‘beep’ loudly every 30 seconds or so; the silence button doesn’t seem to do anything? It makes my dog and wife (who has hearing issues) very upset every time it beeps. I had to fire up the generator to get some power going to make it stop; not ideal in the middle of the night when you are trying to be discreet.
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